My friend has a 93 ranger 3.0 4x4. For the past week it has been hard to start, then today we could barely get it started. It took about 5 minuetes to get it to crank up, and the only way it would is if I pumped the accelorator. Once it was started it had no power, it can't even pull itself out of the driveway. I called around and no one had a scanner to check the codes, so I pulled the plugs and they looked perfect. Is there a way to check the codes on this year truck without a scanner? Also, what do you guys think the problem might be, my next guess is maybe a clogged fuel filter???? I would like to get some opinions though before I just start replacing parts. Any ideas will be helpful. Thanks in advance.

 

Look at the top of this forum in the sticky regarding technical information. You can pull the codes using a voltmeter, the CEL, or a scanner. As for what it might be, I don't speculate on things; instead I diagnose a problem. After doing this, I'm in a position to buy parts that are needed and no more. I'd encourage your doing the same. I'd also suggest checking the fuel pressure.

*I assume the engine is cranking at the normal speed. A little more info might help; does this happen only on a cold engine or hot or does it make no difference?

 

yes, the engine does crank at normal speed, and it is easier to crank once the engine has warmed up, it is almost impossible to crank it when the engine has cooled off. I am going to check the codes before I go any further so I will not be just guessing in the dark.

 

what if anything has changed in the last week or so? perhaps that will give a clue as to what the problem is.

 

I'm confused .

Do you mean when the engine is cold it cranks very slowly? This would suggest a very weak battery and possibly not the required voltage to operate the ECM.

 

Try topping off your blinker fluid and tightening your muffler belt. Just kidding. Is there a check engine light that comes on if and when you get the truck started. When it does run, does it run smoothly, or does it idle roughly, does it backfire, etc.

 

Does the blinker fuid have to be Motorcraft or can we use a cheap substitute? hehehe lol !!!

Oh......and the muffler belt, can we use a fram 190nh765 from Walmart???

 

When it is running it idle's very rough and does backfire, and it cranks at normal speed. I am about to go outside and try to pull the codes and if there are any I will post them on here.

 

Mine was doing something similar. It ended up being a vacuum leak at the vacum tee one of the caps blew off when it backfired. I put a new one on and the idle smoothed out and got power back.

 

This could be a possibility, it is also somthing you should be able to hear. It sounds like a really loud sucking sound, and sometimes will make a high pitched whistle depending on how big the leak is. If its backfiring it could mean alot of things. I'm not sure about timing, because isnt this a distributorless system? therefore no need to adjust timing? I would check your spark plug wires & stuff to be safe, make sure there are none sitting on the exhaust manifolds & such, maybe try starting it in the dark with the hood open and look for sparks. But you say after pumping the gas it started? I believe on a EFI vehcile, before its running, if you put the pedal to full throttle, it actually closes the injectors in an attempt to remedy a flooded vehicle. Then once it senses the engine is running it opens them back up and starts. So maybe your getting too much gas. Right now its just all speculation, once you get codes it will help narrow down the search.

P.S., you can try the cheap blinker fluid, and the wal mart belt if you want, but i'll only use quality motorcraft belts & fluids on my vehcile. I actually get the full synthetic stuff for better blinking action. I find the motorcraft muffler belts last longer too. Lol, seriously though, i actually did somthing stupid though, we were doing an inspection on one of our Ford 9000 water tankers, (has air brakes) and on the sheet it had a space for brake fluid level, & i noticed the guy who was doing the inspection with me hadnt put anything down and without thinking i asked him if he had allready checked it and forgotten to write it down or what. After i said it i knew what i had said, lol. Air brakes=no brake fluid, DUH!

 

sorry it took so long to reply, but it has been almost impossible to get to a computer. Anyway, we found the problem. My friend is not very "car smart" and he had a radiator leak, so until he had the money for a radiator he just kept adding water everytime the coolant level would get low. For the past month it has been getting well below freezing and you can guess what happened, blown head gasket. We were driving down the road and it started to loose power badly and it finally died. I popped the hood and steam was pouring from every crevice in the engine. I pulled the dipstick out to see if there was water in the oil and it looked like a milkshake, and steam was even coming out of the dipstick tube. So I guess it is new engine time, but I guess he will never just add water to a leaking radiator again. Anyway, thanks for all the help guys.

 

Yikes! yeah, they make it green for a reason, lol.