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I have a bad valve tick in my 93 F150. I know its history... the previous owner pulled a three-axle bobcat trailer with it. No problem, except it's the 4.9l I6. My favorite motor, but not fit for the 3" ball on the hitch when I bought it. Has anyone heard of running Automatic transmission fluid as engine oil to clean up valves, etc.? I've heard amazing tales, but wondered if any of you have tried it. Do you change the filter if you do? My old girl has 158000 miles, so she doesn't owe me anything, but I don't want to end up worse off than before I tried the ATF. Thanks.
Greg
93 F150 300 six
50 F1 239 Flathead
I've tried Lucas oil, Marvel, B-12, and Seafoam with no luck. I do love the Lucas stuff and it has worked in other vehicles, but didn't this time. Thanks for the post!
ATF in the engine oil is a myth. If the motor is on its way out, then there's not much you can do about it.
But....
- the 4.9L is a GREAT motor. 158k is barely broken in. These motors run over 300k routinely.
- they are famous for making noise and still going. I wouldn't worry about anything short of a rod knock.
- they are used in everything from F-150's to F-700 dump truck. I don't care what the previous owner did to it, there's no way he damaged it by pulling anything. You could put a freight train behind a 300, it may or may not move it (more likely will) but it won't hurt it.
the "myth" behind using atf is the fact that it is a very high detergent oil, so if there is some minor crude in the engine it will clean it out. But the stuff you have already run through it has even more detergents than atf so no advantage at all. Another thing is ATF is only 10 wieght oil so not really thick enough for engine use. Will it hurt anything probably not, will it help anything probably not.
I've used ATF for lifter problems. I had a 3 liter Mazda MPV that I bought new in '92. They called the lifters HDA's. I had 2 sets replaced under waranty by 50,000 miles. Soon after I needed another set out of waranty. After a good bitching they agreed to replace the lifters which were 27.00 each, they were 3 or 4 per cylinder. I told them I wouldn't buy another set unless they could show me they were improved. The service manager suggested I use ATF fluid when I changed the oil (1 cup) then from that point 1/4 cup every oil change. Someone hit my wife at about 189,000 miles and totaled the van. It worked for me. (They would start this ticking and get worse when they went bad)
I have a bad valve tick in my 93 F150. I know its history... the previous owner pulled a three-axle bobcat trailer with it. No problem, except it's the 4.9l I6. My favorite motor, but not fit for the 3" ball on the hitch when I bought it. Has anyone heard of running Automatic transmission fluid as engine oil to clean up valves, etc.? I've heard amazing tales, but wondered if any of you have tried it. Do you change the filter if you do? My old girl has 158000 miles, so she doesn't owe me anything, but I don't want to end up worse off than before I tried the ATF. Thanks.
Greg
93 F150 300 six
50 F1 239 Flathead
Many many years ago when I was a kid and motor oil was not very good, one of my friends dad used to flush out his 64 Pontiac 389 in a big wagon about once a year with ATF fluid when it would start to tick a lot. The ATF fluid would flush it right out because it has a lot of detergent in it to keep tranny clean. It is a prretty safe flush and safer than some of those thin solvents that you add to oil. You do not want to drive much with it in there. Just start it up and let it warmup and run for about 30 to 45 minutes then drain it out and install fresh oil and filter and then I would change oil again in about 300 to 500 miles as it flushes out what the ATF may have loosend up but left behind.
Worked great on my Mazda with a HLA tick, the Mazda which was a 4cyl turbo on my 91 MX-6 were known for lousy lifters, all I had was grief with my lifters until one day I said to heck with it, I set the engine at 2000rpms off the pedal and ran straight ATF through the engine for 45 minutes, as it kept running it got quiter and quiter till the noise was gone, I left the ATF in it and waited for a week, started the car again and lifter tick again, this time it only took 15 minutes and gone.
Now if its not started for a week it ticks for about 2 minutes and clears up, I had about 5 noisy HLA's and was so loud I could not hear the engine run except for the hammering in the valve train. It does work but I did it as a last resort thing and with no intention of dropping money in the car. The turbo still runs fine too.
If it ticks at idle why don't you pull the valve cover and try and detect which valve or
valves are making the noise. Then pull that rocker and look at it and the ball replacing
whatever is worn. I'll bet you can fix it. Push rods don't usually wear with the ball
bearing ends, the swaged ones however do. I don't think i ever saw a Ford with the cheap setup.
One thing I forgot to mention and while it does not happen often, it does happen, the self locking nuts back off and then you get valve noise . If thats the problem replace the nut or you will be going after it again.
Thank you all for the posts. I have replaced the lifters, rocker arms and pushrods and the tick is still there. I "checked" all the springs by pushing them all with the bleed-down tool, but didn't see anything amiss. I might try doing the ATF thing. Call me superstitious for trying, but I'll let you know if it works. I swear by Seafoam for gunky carbs, so maybe the ATF will appease the same Detroit auto gods dormant in my cylinder head. Do love the 300... much torquier and reliable than the 302 for a truck application. Thanks again. Once again you have proved this site to be the best effie site in the world. Go Ford or go home!
Greg
'93 F150 300 six
'50 F1 239 V8
In that case you didn't notice any studs which seemed higher than the rest did you?
If you run the engine with the cover off and get oil out of every rocker arm it is not
a blocked oiling system problem. The studs pull up out of the bore.
I should also mention, I have freed a sticky valve once by having the engine at high RPM's and running large amounts of ATF down a carb, this was all pre injector, pre sensor though.