aftermarket deck
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well i got a new pioneer deck on boxing day. i took out my old radio. and yes there is the metal bracket everyone was talking about. so i understand i have to cut that. but i won't need to adjust the AC or anything as i sorta put it in and it fits. do i have to do anything after i cut that metal bracket off or can i just leave it and mount my cd player in? and does anyone know what all the wires are for. and can tell me so i do'nt have to play around to much. lol. thanks
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From: okc
when i installed a pioneer CD player in my 76 F-150 i used a stereo install kit(mainly for the plastic surround),first i cut the dash panel to fit...then i took the metal bracket out, and bent the lower half backwards as much as the heater/ac switch allowed, then i attached metal strips(with alot of holes in it) used for securing the back sides of stereos...reinstalled the bracket and dash panel....install the kit per instructions, slide in the stereo and attach to the metal straps from below...sounds like alot, but it only took me part of an afternoon to finish it....
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Originally Posted by SwOkcOffRoader
when i installed a pioneer CD player in my 76 F-150 i used a stereo install kit(mainly for the plastic surround),first i cut the dash panel to fit...then i took the metal bracket out, and bent the lower half backwards as much as the heater/ac switch allowed, then i attached metal strips(with alot of holes in it) used for securing the back sides of stereos...reinstalled the bracket and dash panel....install the kit per instructions, slide in the stereo and attach to the metal straps from below...sounds like alot, but it only took me part of an afternoon to finish it....
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Mark outs the stock radio mounting bracket / AC & heater control mounting bracket (stock bracket) with retangular mounting metal bracket from CD/MP3 player.To fabricate a bracket for the radio, you will need some type of sturdy metal. Use the rectangular metal bracket for the CD/MP3 player as a template to mark up this sturdy metal then usiing a table vice to hold metal as it will make handling and cutting the stock bracket and sturdy metal more of a breeze.
I used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade to cut up mark outs.
I then used a mig welder to weld sturdy metal to the stock bracket.
NOTE: Verify your mark outs proir to cutting, Cut out should not be to high or low.
My Radio and speakers install took 3/4 of day, and was well worth the time.
I used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade to cut up mark outs.
I then used a mig welder to weld sturdy metal to the stock bracket.
NOTE: Verify your mark outs proir to cutting, Cut out should not be to high or low.
My Radio and speakers install took 3/4 of day, and was well worth the time.
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From: okc
Originally Posted by 7sixf150
i love your truck haha. did you go your rims from LMC truck?
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Originally Posted by SwOkcOffRoader
when i installed a pioneer CD player in my 76 F-150 i used a stereo install kit(mainly for the plastic surround),first i cut the dash panel to fit...then i took the metal bracket out, and bent the lower half backwards as much as the heater/ac switch allowed, then i attached metal strips(with alot of holes in it) used for securing the back sides of stereos...reinstalled the bracket and dash panel....install the kit per instructions, slide in the stereo and attach to the metal straps from below...sounds like alot, but it only took me part of an afternoon to finish it....
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From: okc
grey, green, brown, and purple are usually speaker wires...you will have to go by trial and error to find out which speaker is which....red is power, orange/yellow is memory power, blue is power antenna.......
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Eustis FL
After I cut my dash opening to fit the new style DIN mount deck, I used the supplied trim plate to fit over the factory trim panel.
I also kept the factory radio rear support bracket, and it perfectly fit the new stereo which comes with a threaded hole or a stud in the rear in just the right location. Remove ashtray for this procedure. You can feel the back of the bracket by hand, and thread on the new nut by feel and then get a wrench on there (I think the supplied nut was 10mm)
This bracket keeps the stereo from bouncing around, and secures it in place instead of relying on just the front mount.
Mark
I also kept the factory radio rear support bracket, and it perfectly fit the new stereo which comes with a threaded hole or a stud in the rear in just the right location. Remove ashtray for this procedure. You can feel the back of the bracket by hand, and thread on the new nut by feel and then get a wrench on there (I think the supplied nut was 10mm)
This bracket keeps the stereo from bouncing around, and secures it in place instead of relying on just the front mount.
Mark
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Originally Posted by SwOkcOffRoader
grey, green, brown, and purple are usually speaker wires...you will have to go by trial and error to find out which speaker is which....red is power, orange/yellow is memory power, blue is power antenna.......
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The main yellow wire can go direct to any direct hot wire on the fuse box. Radio Shack sells a connector that goes in back of the fuse and the fuse slip onto this connector and then a wire connector will complete this connection.
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Originally Posted by 1975Ford
The main yellow wire can go direct to any direct hot wire on the fuse box. Radio Shack sells a connector that goes in back of the fuse and the fuse slip onto this connector and then a wire connector will complete this connection.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Eustis FL
Haha, been running my tach that way for a very long time, but don't tell anyone! Lol.
If you run an amp, you can run a heavy gauge wire (6 or larger) from the battery, to a power distribution block, then split from there to the deck for your continuous (memory) wire. Run an inline fuse on that heavy wire, like a 40 amp, or close to what your amp requires, BEFORE the block.
Mark
If you run an amp, you can run a heavy gauge wire (6 or larger) from the battery, to a power distribution block, then split from there to the deck for your continuous (memory) wire. Run an inline fuse on that heavy wire, like a 40 amp, or close to what your amp requires, BEFORE the block.
Mark
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Originally Posted by trinogt
Haha, been running my tach that way for a very long time, but don't tell anyone! Lol.
If you run an amp, you can run a heavy gauge wire (6 or larger) from the battery, to a power distribution block, then split from there to the deck for your continuous (memory) wire. Run an inline fuse on that heavy wire, like a 40 amp, or close to what your amp requires, BEFORE the block.
Mark
If you run an amp, you can run a heavy gauge wire (6 or larger) from the battery, to a power distribution block, then split from there to the deck for your continuous (memory) wire. Run an inline fuse on that heavy wire, like a 40 amp, or close to what your amp requires, BEFORE the block.
Mark
i do have an amp. a 1000w. but i don't think i'll be hooking it up for a little while.