I have a 79 3/4 400 that I dug out of a barn and got running after it sat about 7 years. It needed a water pump because it leaked when I put water in it and a fuel pump. It has an oil leak in either the rear main or the rear of the pan gasket. It only leaks when it runs and shortly after. Is stop leak a bad idea for an easy fix?

 

Bars leaks is usually for emergency for attempting to stop a leak in the Rad or Heater Core.
They tend to GUM UP a cooling system.

I wouldn't use it to try and stop a water pump leak.
I would do the repair instead.


Dennis

Oh....Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"




https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=144&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=143&.jpg
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles

 

No I replaced the water pump this is for the Oil leak

 

Most stop leak type products for oil/tranny will soften seals and may work for awhile but will eventually ruin the seals. IMHO

You could try this. Find the make up air sorce for your PVC system. Probably in the air cleaner. Block off the hose. This will draw a vacuum on the crankcase and suck air back into the engine any where there is a leak. I use this method for performance/good idle and works pretty good on older engine with leaks. Some new imports are set up this way. Instead of pressure going out you have suction comming in.

Bear

 

personaly i would not use it my inlaws used it in there oldsmopile HA HA HA and it leaks like a screen door couldn't happen to a nicer machine i dont rember if that has a two or one piece rear main if it is a two piece it is not that bad my pickup did the same thing when i got it it took a while but it eventually quit on its own i still rebuilt the motor oh well best of luck

 

How many miles on the motor? And what weight oil are you running? I have often ran 20w/50 in older motors to slow leaks and improve oil pressure. Just a thought

 

The truck has 76,XXX on it. and the oil is running out at the back of the block (at the Flywheel cover) If is a rear main what the easiest way to fix it? How much tearing apart does it requier?

 

Jack up the truck, put it on jackstands, drop the oil pan. The manual I have says to loosen the main bearing caps (all) but no more than 1/32", so the bearings don't drop out of place. Remove the main bearing cap, then follow the insructions that come with the new seal. Don't forget to retorque the main bearing caps when done. It's not that bad a job, just kind of messy.

 

I had a 89 Dodge Shadow that had a leak in the radiator. I used some Stop Leak in it... I ended up replacing the radiator, the heater core, and the water pump by the time that s**t was done messing up my cooling system. It came outta the heater hose like a brick.

 

OK sounds like the stop leak is not the route to take. I'll just get the gaskets and dig in. No sense in makeing a bad thing worse.
FLYBOY what kind of manual do ya have that gives you that spicific directions for that job? I'd love to know!


'79 4X4 F-150 XLT Ranger Shortbed
'79 4X4 F-250 Ranger
'65 Mustang

 

I cannot remember. Did yuo look closely at the back of the manifold, valve covers and the oil pressure sending unit?
They will all run down the back.

Bear Tracks

 

Yup I made sure it is definatly NOT comeing down from the top of the motor.

 

Stopleak is always a bad idea its made to stop leaks
by sealing them off but it also seals off things that should not be blocked off in the first place just fix your leak my advise is to remove the dust cover and check for oil if it is oily on the inside it is your rear main seal if it is not change your valve cover gaskets they leak in the back towards fire wall oil runs down the heads block and bell housing right on the
dust cover and it looks like it is your rear main seal but it is not
GOOD LUCK
LFLS
ROD

69 f100 360 3speed on the tree
blue&white
future plans build engine to 410 hyperutectic pistons
hipo rods blue printed oiling system ported heads edelbrock
intake edelbrock 650cfm carb toploader four speed 3.25 gears in a 9in
housing cragers etc:-staun