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Bronco II Ford Bronco II

Will not start

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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 04:50 PM
  #1  
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Will not start

My 1988 Bronco II 2.9 automatic will not start. It has no spark. A few weeks ago it sometimes would not start when it was warmed up. I replaced the ignition module and it seemed to have cured that problem and it ran fine. Yesterday morning it started fine. I parked it in the garage and a few hours later it would not start. I have the ignition module checked at Autozone, it passed 4 times and failed once so I installed a new one. Still no spark. I've checked the voltage at the coil, checked the coil itself, checked the coil wire. All check good. In reading the repair manual it appears that the problem may be the stator. The book says to disconnect the pin-in-line connector near the distributor. I can't find this connection so I can't run the test. I don't have much confidence in the manual. I've found several mistakes so I wonder if the pin-in-line connector is also a mistake. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 07:12 PM
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I have a link in the tech info thread at the top of this forum on testing the TFI from the Ford manual.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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No Spark

Ken, thanks for the test procedures from the Ford manual. This is excellent information but I have followed the procedures and still do not understand hot to fix my problem.
Bronco II Ignition test results
For 1988 Bronco II with 2.9 engine. 12/15/05

All tests show OK except the following:

Part 2 test 3
Pin # 2 in only 9.3 volts and it should be 11.1 min
This calls for checking the ignition switch and the wiring harness for faults but I can find no faults.

Part 2 test 9
The lowest voltage is .05 other than .5
The highest voltage is OK at 11.9
This calls for going to part 2 test 11. I’m not sure how to interpret this, if values are between .5 and 70 percent of battery voltage replace the stator. The other option is no values between .5 and 70% of battery voltage. My values are .05 to 70% of battery voltage. If no values go to part 2 test 12. My TFI is new and passes.

I hooked a spare complete distributor to my TFI harness. With the ignition switch on and spinning the distributor gear by hand the fuel pump runs and the injectors fire but there is no spark.

Other information:
Voltage readings on the TFI harness are as follows:
Pin #1 4.7 Is this supposed to be a ground? I cannot find what this reading should be
Pin #2 9.3 Low, should be 11.1
Pin #3 11.7 OK
Pin #4 11.6 OK
Pin#5 11.9 OK
Pin #6 4.0 I cannot find what this reading should be

Coil checks OK. Voltage to the coil is OK on both the plus and minus side.

I hope you are someone can give me some help.

Thanks,

Allan
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:18 PM
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For 2-3, have you traced the circuit back to find were you have 11.1 or greater?

2-9, you would go to 2-12.

The top pin on the TFI is the PIP, the bottom one is ignition ground, I can't find any values for these either.

Since you found a problem at test 2-3 I would address that issue before continuing with the balance of the tests since it may effect the results.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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Thanks a lot Ken. I'm still trying to find where the voltage drop is occuring on pin 2. I may merely run a new wire for this circuit if I can't find the problem soon.

Since you verifyed that Pin 1 (the bottom pin) is supposed to be a ground and I have a low voltage would it be safe to cut this line close to the distributor and run a ground wire to the distributor side of the wire? Or, could I merely cut into the wire and ground it without cutting it?

In the past, on another BII I had a ground problem with the injectors and fuel pump (they would not run). I was never able to find where the exact problem existed so I merely spliced in a new ground wire near the manifold. (Usually I've found that this problem is the ground near the battery but not in this case). It was still running fine after a couple of years when I sold it.

As you recommend, I'll fix 2-3 before going further. I hope that will be the fix but I don't think it will.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 09:30 PM
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If you look at the wiring diagram on the first page you'll see the ignition ground goes to the ECU, what your thinking wouldn't be a good idea.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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Ken, I have not been able to find the low voltage problem on terminal #2 on the ignition module connector. I finally made a temporary jumper, hooked one end to the green wire on the negative side of the coil and the other end to a needle stuck through the insulation on the wire to number two terminal at the ignition module connector. The Bronco started and seemed to run OK. The engine dies immediately when I unhook the temporary jumper. Does this seem like a proper fix? If so, I'll strip some insulation off the wires, solder and tape a permanent jumper.

Thanks again for all the help that you have provided.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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Before I say yes but it's looking good....

What is the voltage at the r/lg wire at the coil? 90% battery voltage.

What is the resistance across the two small terminals of the coil? 0.3-1.0 ohm.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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Yes, the voltage is 11.9 which is better than 90% of battery voltage.
The resitance across the two small terminals on the coil is .7 ohm
 
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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Sounds good....

So your just bypassing most of the DG/Y wire and you get the proper voltage, replace the wire and you should be good.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Ken, this worked! Thanks for your help. I would have never figured this out on my own. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Hope I don't have to bother you again for a while. Allan
 
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 09:04 PM
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Glad to hear it's running good again!!

Have a great holiday and don't be a stranger here at FTE.
 
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