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Blue smoke at idle

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  #16  
Old 01-01-2006, 09:20 PM
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pinging, chattering, tapping noise is driving me crazy!

Ok this pinging, chattering, tapping noise is driving me crazy! I’ve put new injectors in slightly adjusted the timing (retarded). Moved the opposite way (advanced) and then moved it back to its original position, tried running it cold put cardboard in front of the radiator to run it warm still pinging, chattering, tapping what ever you wanta call it I thought I seen in one of the threads about something that advances your timing, if so where is it located and could this be the problem and how do I disengage it or fix it. Other than that it runs like a champ, I’m just afraid I’m doing damage to the engine by running it like this, ok guys let me hear it
 
  #17  
Old 01-02-2006, 08:30 AM
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on the drivers side of the injection pump, where the throttle shaft comes through from the other side. If you climb in and look close there is an arm about 3" long that goes down to the bottom of the pump. If you advance the throttle wide open and idle, ENGINE OFF several times you should see where the lever moves with a little cam type of mechanism on the throttle shaft. You have to have your head close so you can see the bottom of the pump, this lever pivots about half way down, on a roll pin. I've seen these pivot pins rust. If this lever doesn't move when you move the throttle its probably rusted. If it doesn't move, at idle position you should be able to push on or "CAREFULLY PRY" it back and forth while spraying penetrating oil on it. Also make sure you can see the advance pin at the bottom what the lever pushes on go in and out with the lever. A stuck advanve will make it idle poorly and smoke. Hope this helps.
 
  #18  
Old 01-06-2006, 12:40 AM
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When you remove the CDR check in the intake for black flakes of rubber, this would indicate the membrane has disintegrated and the CDR should be replaced. If the CDR is pained grey I would be careful when removing it as the down tube to the valley pan is made of rubber and is very brittle........and expensive.

The part # for the rubber tube on the CDR... Retainer # E8TZ 6A892A

Ford calls CDR an "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A

IH part #1805319C1
 
  #19  
Old 01-08-2006, 11:25 PM
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How do you test a CDR valve to find out if it is functioning correctly or if the membrane is in tact?
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:20 AM
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is this the CDR valve... ?

mine is blue smoking and stumbling at idle... it only has 31K miles and I put 21K on it... i know the cdr has not been cleaned since I had it...

also, what would cause it to die immediately after revving it up.... this just started

oh yea... 94 7.3 IDI turbo, 31K miles.... crate motor ...

 
  #21  
Old 03-28-2006, 01:46 PM
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Yep, that's it.
 
  #22  
Old 04-04-2006, 11:03 PM
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cleaned it and it runs like new agin... thanks ..
 
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