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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 12:57 PM
  #1  
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Sloppy Steering

I'm new to this board and I appreciate the wealth of info here.

I'm looking at a short RWD '97 XLT to replace my short RWD '91 XL which has started showing major signs of rust this year and has one of the noisiest valve lifters on this planet. Anyway, this '97 is in pretty good shape and has under 85,000 kms on it yet it seems to have the GM steering feel curse. I'm comparing it to the '91 which has about 180,000 kms on it and has several year old tires on it and about 120 + 5 years on the shocks. Outside of tires and shocks, what could cause the steering to feel a bit too loose and vague on it?

If only this one was extended, had the 4L and wasn't a sport... :-/
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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the tie rod ends can give a sloppy feel. If you jack the front of the truck up and grab the tire at three and nine o'clock and chake back and forth, the tire should not wiggle at all. If it does, then the tie rod ends are out and ned replaced as soon as possible. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 03:40 PM
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tie rods are relative inexpensive and easy to replace, do both inners and outers at same time...

can also be worn loose wheel bearings, wanders like a goose crossing the road....easy fix on 2wdr

ball joints are more difficult but could be be problem even at 85k km if driven mainly on rough roads and with bad worn out shocks.. cutting-grinding off rivets, pushing out and in new lowers with special tool, spring compressor with safety chain...full weekend for one guy both sides top and bottom with no problems...more time if problems encountered.

can also be worn steering rack/pinion...even at 85k km if steering fluid dirty and driven on rough roads...racks really take a pounding
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Dec 2, 2005 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
tie rods are relative inexpensive and easy to replace, do both inners and outers at same time...

can also be worn loose wheel bearings, wanders like a goose crossing the road....easy fix on 2wdr

ball joints are more difficult but could be be problem even at 85k km if driven mainly on rough roads and with bad worn out shocks.. cutting-grinding off rivets, pushing out and in new lowers with special tool, spring compressor with safety chain...full weekend for one guy both sides top and bottom with no problems...more time if problems encountered.
I would like to add the upper and lower control arm bushings. All are replaceable and cheap, but a bit time consuming. One of the reasons I love the Aerostar is because parts are extremely cheap, but rather time consuming to replace. Suits me just fine since I'm cheap and I have time
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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Thanks

Thanks guys...

This thing has been pretty babied... I was just sursprised that it doesn't steer better than my '91. My mechanic didn't notice anything wrong with it.

I'll still have him look further into it when I get it saftey checked if I can get the current owners to price this vehicle a little more realistically. Oh well, at least with it being short, a sport and a 3L, I won't feel as bad if my offer is left on the table and this van gets left in their garage...
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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right,
a rig with loose bad steering is an unsafe vehicle
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 11:35 PM
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Welcome!



right,
a rig with loose bad steering is an unsafe vehicle
I agree, I would definitely use it as a barganing tool.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2005 | 10:16 AM
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It actually steers where it is supposed to go. Just the turn-in isn't quite as crisp as my old van. Not much of a bargaining chip there and it makes me come out sounding a bit strange if I try to make a big deal out of it. It's not anything that is making it unsafe but thanks for the thoughts.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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You are supposed to sound strange and unreasonable when you are bargaining. that is rule 2. rule 1 is say no until your tongue bleeds.

Ken
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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Repeating works really well... and I tend to repeat that the true value of a used vehicle is what you can negotiate with your insurance broker if the vehicle is unfortunate enough to get written off - which is a scary possibility with an Aerostar due to cost of body repairs and low market value. Lots of patience and walking away with them knowing you had the cash in your pocket help as well because when they call you, you know they are finally ready to negotiate.

Now the big question is what to do with the '91 (named Ben), what to name the new one (anthropomorphism is seldom practiced on new or leased vehicles) and what to do with those stupid running board moldings that come on the sides of Sport models and are probably magnetically attracted to curbs and what not? Has anyone ever de-Sported an Aero? The centre console from the '91 is definitely migrating to the '97. It's hard to believe those consoles aren't more common because it was a pretty good design and provides cup holders for the rear as well as the front. Oh well, I'm rambling.

As for the sloppy steering I think the difference is the Michelin Alpine winter tires. I did the first test drive at night just to see if it was worth taking into my mechanic for a better look and just noticed that the tires were Michelin's.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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hey I just thought of why it might steer sloppier. If the engine/trans isn't setup the same, then the steering won't be as crisp, as the tires can't move as far in their wells without hitting engine/transaxle. The 91 was a rear wheel, was the 97 a front wheel? I'm not familiar with the new versions, but if so then that's probably your problem.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 11:22 PM
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No Windstar / FWD involved in the forum... :-)

The biggest factor is the Michelin snow and ice tires and old shocks. The snow tires are much softer than the 4 season Michelins I have on the '91. There also may be a factor of the '97 being built with suspension that is a little softer. It feels somehow very Buick-like and I mean that in the good sense. It seems to drive nice and plush and this is with brand new KYBs. Before buying the van and changing the shocks this '97 felt really sloppy.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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Can someone tell me what the torque specs are for the tie rod end nut with cotter pin? This is for a 1995 Aerostar.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 05:56 AM
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 12:20 AM
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estecmann, I generally keep this in the 40 lbs range, and then tighten to where the pin lines up. Most of the time the torque spec on this gets you to where the pin won't line up. The pin is more important than an exact torque spec.
 
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