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Brake and hazard lights fixed!

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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 03:04 AM
  #1  
dakonthemountain's Avatar
dakonthemountain
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Brake and hazard lights fixed!

Well, after replacing all the fuses, the brake light switch, the turn signal switch and the hazard switch, and then following the testing procedures from the tech article on this site, I STILL had no brake lights or hazards.. I finally gave up and took my truck to an auto electrical guy. BOY do I feel stupid! It turned out to be a fuse! As I said, I replaced what I thought was all of them, but apparently I missed one. I will find out tomorrow, as the truck is still there.

Just had to let ya all know .... Geesh!
Dak
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:31 AM
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Torque1st
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$450 fuse...
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 06:49 AM
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From: Elkins, WV
I had close to the the same problem.. Did lots of checking all over the truck, the found out that the metal tabs that hold in the glass tubes were not giving good contact. They looked a bit discolored, but not rusty or anything.

I took a mini dremel tool bit wire brush attached to my power drill a worked over the tabs until they were buffed clean. Put the same fuses back in and Bingo! Lights worked.

The fuse that controls the Brake Lights and Hazard flasher is the bottom left one. It gets power all the time.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 07:54 AM
  #4  
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User 71024
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Originally Posted by Torque1st
$450 fuse...
FUSE $450.00
TEST LIGHT $4.00
Lesson Learned????? PRICELESS

PS: the most valuable tool in your box, per dollar spent, is a testlight.........Well that and a churchkey
 

Last edited by User 71024; Dec 2, 2005 at 07:56 AM.
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Old Dec 3, 2005 | 03:00 PM
  #5  
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dakonthemountain
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Ok... I know I seem dumb sometimes, but if you read my message.....

I DO have a test light AND meter.. I DID replace the fuse.... and as I stated, I DID perform the entire tesiting process, per the technical article posted on this website. I am not THAT stupid! When I picked my truck up yesterday, the guy showed me that someone had in the past added an inline fuse up under the dash to this circuit and disconnected the one at the fuse block from the back because the connection had eroded. I would not have found this out unless I took out the fuse block. That is why all the work I did accomplished nothing. Because of Mickey Mouse wiring. In all the testing I did everything was dead and this was the reason why. My booboo was not finding the new fuse (or correctly tracing the wires)
Anyway, problem solved! (and it was not $450, it was only $50...)

Oh, and I DO have a churchkey! (but it is too big to fit in the fuse block!)
Dak
 
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Old Dec 3, 2005 | 06:06 PM
  #6  
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I went thru a similar problem with a 63 stop light and an 85 heater blower. The 63 had a fuse clip that had lost it's tension. Took me a few hours to figure it out because I was alone and whenever I touched the fuse with the test light probe the fuse made contact. Someday I will learn how to prop up a mirror behind the vehicle so I can see the lights in daylight. In the 85 the crimp connection behind the fuse panel was burned up. With the 63 all I had to do was squeeze the fuse clip. With the 85 I had to replace some wire and a clip.

Keep that mechanics number in your "Gold" file. Most of those experts charge at least an appendage.
 
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