ladder bars
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New User
Joined: Nov 2005
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ladder bars
i have a 79 f 150 and want to put 3 in blocks in rear should i custom make some ladder bars to keep from axle twisting on these blocks is it a good idea dont have much money to buy new spings for the lift already have the blocks and 2 more sets of spring to make it stiffer in the rear like a 350 so i have plenty of springs i also am going to drop the coil spring cups enough to make her level any help would help
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
Ladder bars would be a very good idea with those blocks. The axle wrap you get from larger blocks is not only hard on axle shafts and u-joints but can destroy your springs if they wrap up hard enough.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 969
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From: North Texas
Puctuation and grammer not only show your command of the english language, but make it easier for people to understand and reply to your questions. As for the correct material to use, look at the expensive aftermaket ones. Then copy them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
There are a LOT of different designs for ladder bars out there and a lot of different methods of attachment to the axle and frame. Do some checking around as derherr suggested and find a design you like. 1" would be a minimum that I would use (personally would prefer 1.25-1.5") and you'll have several options for wall thickness. Unless you've got a high horsepower engine with low gearing they won't need to be too heavy. I like the look of round tubing but square stock works fine too and is usually easier to work with.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: mankato, MN
ladder bars
Lil ford, I noticed you were attacking some home made ladder bars. I also was looking into this. I was wondering where you mount these ladder bars on the frame and axle. I've seen them off trucks but never been able to see some on. Thanks for the help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
A lot of designs use a giant u-bolt that will hold the bars onto the axle. This will work for most application. I've seen the axles twist and roll in the u-bolts on trucks with a little more horsepower so my personal preference is to build tabs or brackets that you can weld to your axle and then mount the bars to those. I'll try to snap some pics of my axle mounts later and post them.
At the frame I've got a small bracket welded to the bottom of the frame rail. The end of the bar has a heim joint on it so I've got 1 big bolt that runs through the frame bracket and through the heim. There's other ways to do it too but this is an easy option. Kits you'll buy will often use a bracket that you can bolt to the frame if you don't want to weld on it.
At the frame I've got a small bracket welded to the bottom of the frame rail. The end of the bar has a heim joint on it so I've got 1 big bolt that runs through the frame bracket and through the heim. There's other ways to do it too but this is an easy option. Kits you'll buy will often use a bracket that you can bolt to the frame if you don't want to weld on it.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: mankato, MN
Hey, that sounds great. How thick is the axle casing for welding? Would you use about a 1/4 inch plate on each side. Just wondering how strong i should set the welder.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2005
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I bought some through JC Whittney for my 250. It bolts to the top of the spring at the perch and it has a plate at the front of the spring. There is a steel rod that runs from one position to the other. The rod is threaded at one end for pre-load. I replaced the mounting plate at the front of spring with 1/2 inch plate. I bent the 1/4 inch one on my first burn out. I think the kit was less than a hundred bucks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Those rod style bars that go on the spring plate are very limited in their ability to prevent axle wrap. This is especially true if you have larger blocks. You're much better building or buying a set of bars that mount to the axle tube itself.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Yes ivan is correct direcet attachment to the axle is much better. The bar style works fine for my highboy with 35's and was cheap and easy. A set up direct to the axle will completely eliminate any wheel hop however. Good luck so many choices.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 705
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From: Okla.
You could make blocks that were xetended with a rubber stopper on the to come up aganst the sping to keep the twisting from going on. I made some for my 74 they work good. With a trailer on it hit the gas and fill the truck rase up. Trying to lift the truck plants the tires harder.
Last edited by 74 F100 351m; Dec 17, 2005 at 01:14 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,734
Likes: 38
From: Sunny Florida
I have a question regarding home made ladder bars. What is the best over all length of the ladder bars? It appears that the ladder bad should be mounted in front of the rear leaf spring hanger. I would guess that having it fall short of this could cause some binding in the suspension when it travels.
Does any one have a guide line as to how long or short the ladder bars can be?
Do they make for a firmer/harder ride?
Does any one have a guide line as to how long or short the ladder bars can be?
Do they make for a firmer/harder ride?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
RTM, I just went and pulled a measurement. Mine are 70" long. A little shorter definitely wouldn't hurt anything but yes, too short will. They don't affect my ride at all.
Here's the mounts at the axle:
Here's the mount at the frame:
Here you can get an overall idea of how long they are and how far forward they come on the frame. Again, a bit shorter wouldn't hurt. I'm going to build another set next year and they'll probably be 10-15" shorter.
Here's the mounts at the axle:
Here's the mount at the frame:
Here you can get an overall idea of how long they are and how far forward they come on the frame. Again, a bit shorter wouldn't hurt. I'm going to build another set next year and they'll probably be 10-15" shorter.