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All rights, now I'm confused too. My truck is currently on jack stands, stripped down and waiting for new ball joints from NAPA (everyone here told me to go with the greaseable joints and not the factory ones). I haven't purchased the O-rings, knuckle seals, or wheel bearing assemblies yet, but they are being held for me at the dealer (should I get these elsewhere also?).
Here is my confusion, what are you guys talking about regarding possible damage to the "inner axle seals" inside the pumpkin? It sounds like I can damage something (seals) inside the pumpkin if I don't remove and/or reinstall the axle shaft ends correctly. Is this right? If so, what is the "correct" method for removal and reinstallation?
Okay ,inside the axle tubes,on both sides all the way in where the axle shaft goes back into pumkin(carrier splines for the spydergears) are oil seals.These seals can be damged pulling axles out or going back in.Its a situation where you try to keep axle shaft as straight as possible going back in .Don't be a bull with them,thats the only way I can describe it.
A little trick I use is a Glob or ball of grease(cover the splines with grease) right at the end of the axle so it will lube the spline and the seal as it passes through it.
Some guys have no trouble ,others well the seals get damaged.
Rich
Rich is right, there is no perfect way of reinstalling them. The drivers side is the easiest because of the short axle. If you use a flash light and look inside the axle tube you will see that the inner seal is beveled on the front edge facing you as is the end of the axle. When you slide it in, the end of the axle will ride up on the seal on it's own and go right into place. Using a glob of grease like Rich said is just a little bit of insurance and minimizes the risk of damage to the seal. As long as you slide them in slowly and not ram them in, you'll be alright.
Picking up my truck today. Upper and lower ball joints gone at 50K miles. Dropped it at a friends shop while on vacation. He had to get some special tools, (above the press to remove them) and they were almost totally rusted in. Here in CT I guess the salt and snow and lack of drainage from the area helped a lot. And I hose it down often in the winter too, top to bottom! Anyway, torched out the old in with the new, with grease fittings/plugs. Some interesting info... I was told these are the same part used since 1979. Two or four wheel drive. No wonder they wear so fast with all the extra weight and abuse! Let me know if you hear different. (BTW - around $600. total)
Thanks,
Mike
Greaseable joints are only good if you grease them regularly. Most people don't. Sealed joints are better at keeping water and junk out of them. Greaseable joints require frequent greasing to push the water and junk out.
Greaseable joints are only good if you grease them regularly. Most people don't. Sealed joints are better at keeping water and junk out of them. Greaseable joints require frequent greasing to push the water and junk out.
Thanks Dave...
So...in the overall scope of the SD ball joints...lasting 80,000+ miles is actually pretty good. Cool...
Racer: How frequently is greasing needed to push the water out and keep the joints in good shape?
Also, in my searching today, I discovered that Ford now offers Motorcraft ball joints that have grease fittings! I didn't use them b/c I already purchased ball joints from Napa and the two Ford dealers I visited knew of them and had part numbers, but didn't have any in-stock. Sounds like the pressure from the aftermarket guys is getting Ford to make changes.
I've wondered myself...Why would FORD NOT put grease fittings on these ball joints???
Anybody?
I'm just curious...why they would leave such a weak link in the SD...
biz
Because their cheap and want to sell you more parts after warranty is up
We are in a throw away society,buy a new truck instead of maintaining it.
Rich
With your truck jacked up, grab ahold of the tire at the top and see if you can move it in or out, then do the same thing at the bottom. If you feel any play at all, top or bottom, you need new ball joints. Do this on both sides and chances are, if one side is bad the other one is also.
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