88 E150 problems
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88 E150 problems
How would I go about connecting the power to the blower to see if the blower works ? I unpluged the connector off the blower resistor. would it be as easy as touching a hot to one of the connectors ?
Also I unpluger the blower resistor connector and fired up the motor. I am getting 14V to ground on one connection, I am assuming the other end is the blower switch. I am looking at a diagram and I dont see where the voltage is introduced
Any ideas
Also I unpluger the blower resistor connector and fired up the motor. I am getting 14V to ground on one connection, I am assuming the other end is the blower switch. I am looking at a diagram and I dont see where the voltage is introduced
Any ideas
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by SonnyD
How would I go about connecting the power to the blower to see if the blower works ? I unpluged the connector off the blower resistor. would it be as easy as touching a hot to one of the connectors ?
Also I unpluger the blower resistor connector and fired up the motor. I am getting 14V to ground on one connection, I am assuming the other end is the blower switch. I am looking at a diagram and I dont see where the voltage is introduced
Any ideas
Also I unpluger the blower resistor connector and fired up the motor. I am getting 14V to ground on one connection, I am assuming the other end is the blower switch. I am looking at a diagram and I dont see where the voltage is introduced
Any ideas
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
[QUOTE=SonnyD]Also do you know if the 88 has any OBD ports ?
QUOTE]I take it you are talking about "On-Board Diagnostic", Yes there is a Test Plug Behind the right passenger head light. There is also a single wire hanging with it that is used at the same time.
Here is a diagram of it.
QUOTE]I take it you are talking about "On-Board Diagnostic", Yes there is a Test Plug Behind the right passenger head light. There is also a single wire hanging with it that is used at the same time.
Here is a diagram of it.
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you are the man, thanks. will any reader work ?
Just fixed my heater. now all I have to do is bang around where the battery sits and the fan comes on reguardless of whether its on or off at the console and also dosent matter wether the key is on or off.
Had this problem before the fan quit working, any ideas ?
Just fixed my heater. now all I have to do is bang around where the battery sits and the fan comes on reguardless of whether its on or off at the console and also dosent matter wether the key is on or off.
Had this problem before the fan quit working, any ideas ?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by SonnyD
will any reader work ??
Originally Posted by SonnyD
Just fixed my heater. now all I have to do is bang around where the battery sits and the fan comes on reguardless of whether its on or off at the console and also dosent matter wether the key is on or off.
Had this problem before the fan quit working, any ideas ?
Had this problem before the fan quit working, any ideas ?
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
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From: Sweden
I have an '87 E150 and had a LOT of problems with the fuse for the blower motor. It's the only fuse that causes trouble but it's the highest current fuse in there. It won't blow visibly but seems to want to break inside the metal cap, then it kinda comes and goes or just stops working. I believe I even read the fuse was a good connection when I put an ohmmeter on it but then read 12v from one side of the fuse to the other when the blower was turned on. Spent awhile figuring that out. I think it happened on 2 different fuses too.
Last edited by Dannym; Jan 26, 2006 at 02:45 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
As long as there is not an an electrical fault, what you need is a slow blow fuse. If it still blows, there is a bigger problem then the fuse. At the worse, you can always put a circuit breaker in.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Sweden
It was a slow blow fuse.
I think it was a problem with the fuse holder, it was heating up enough that it cooked the connection of the fusible element to the metal cup at the end. When I took the fuse out and examined it more carefully this was the area where the fuse malfunctioned.
If I was going to replace it (and I might), I'd definitely splice in a blade-type fuse holder. They sell well-made holders with pigtails for just this. I HATE these old glass ones.
I think it was a problem with the fuse holder, it was heating up enough that it cooked the connection of the fusible element to the metal cup at the end. When I took the fuse out and examined it more carefully this was the area where the fuse malfunctioned.
If I was going to replace it (and I might), I'd definitely splice in a blade-type fuse holder. They sell well-made holders with pigtails for just this. I HATE these old glass ones.
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