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How would I go about connecting the power to the blower to see if the blower works ? I unpluged the connector off the blower resistor. would it be as easy as touching a hot to one of the connectors ?
Also I unpluger the blower resistor connector and fired up the motor. I am getting 14V to ground on one connection, I am assuming the other end is the blower switch. I am looking at a diagram and I dont see where the voltage is introduced
How would I go about connecting the power to the blower to see if the blower works ? I unpluged the connector off the blower resistor. would it be as easy as touching a hot to one of the connectors ?
Also I unpluger the blower resistor connector and fired up the motor. I am getting 14V to ground on one connection, I am assuming the other end is the blower switch. I am looking at a diagram and I dont see where the voltage is introduced
Any ideas
If this is the diagram then it comes in at the top right.
[QUOTE=SonnyD]Also do you know if the 88 has any OBD ports ?
QUOTE]I take it you are talking about "On-Board Diagnostic", Yes there is a Test Plug Behind the right passenger head light. There is also a single wire hanging with it that is used at the same time.
Here is a diagram of it.
Just fixed my heater. now all I have to do is bang around where the battery sits and the fan comes on reguardless of whether its on or off at the console and also dosent matter wether the key is on or off.
Had this problem before the fan quit working, any ideas ?
You do not even need a reader, just use a test light.
Originally Posted by SonnyD
Just fixed my heater. now all I have to do is bang around where the battery sits and the fan comes on reguardless of whether its on or off at the console and also dosent matter wether the key is on or off.
Had this problem before the fan quit working, any ideas ?
This makes it sound like I gave you the wrong print, it sounds like your circuit has a relay in it. Replace the bad Blower Motor Relay (LH side of engine compartment).
I have an '87 E150 and had a LOT of problems with the fuse for the blower motor. It's the only fuse that causes trouble but it's the highest current fuse in there. It won't blow visibly but seems to want to break inside the metal cap, then it kinda comes and goes or just stops working. I believe I even read the fuse was a good connection when I put an ohmmeter on it but then read 12v from one side of the fuse to the other when the blower was turned on. Spent awhile figuring that out. I think it happened on 2 different fuses too.
As long as there is not an an electrical fault, what you need is a slow blow fuse. If it still blows, there is a bigger problem then the fuse. At the worse, you can always put a circuit breaker in.
It was a slow blow fuse.
I think it was a problem with the fuse holder, it was heating up enough that it cooked the connection of the fusible element to the metal cup at the end. When I took the fuse out and examined it more carefully this was the area where the fuse malfunctioned.
If I was going to replace it (and I might), I'd definitely splice in a blade-type fuse holder. They sell well-made holders with pigtails for just this. I HATE these old glass ones.