Hey all, I'm being driven around the bed with this problem. My 93 explorer's 4x4 will not engage. When I press the button(man I hate push button) I can hear the control mudule make a lot more electrical clicking noises than it used to but the 4x4 wont "clunk" in and engage and the light wont come on saying it has. I popped the control box out and tried a different one but I got the exact same noises and same lack of results. I was wondering maybe something mechanical or perhaps a short or soemthing? Anyone experience this or know a way I can get to the root of the problem without taking it in where I have to spend the money I don't have. Thanks guys any help would be awesome.

 

Probably dirty shift motor. It's rather common. Search here, other forums, and the net for "dirty shift motor" or something and you should find all kinds of stuff. There's one link in particular (I can't remember the link, but it has been posted here) that describes how to dissassemble the shift motor and clean it up.

 

If it matters, the change from working to not was very sudden. I used the 4wd to get partway down a muddy logging road then disengaged it at a drier section then, about 10 mins later when I tried to use it again, I got the manik clicking and lack of engagement?!?!

 

That's right Mcrank. What's going on today - I just answered another post on a 94 so I'm going to copy/paste that reply. Only difference was that he could get 4WH but not low. Here it is:

Yup - transfersase electric shift motor - most likely. Could also be a bad switch/button on the dash. There's a relay reset button you can try. Left rear qtr panel, removable cover from inside, a littel black controler with a white button on the bottom. With car running hit the button. An LED will flash and I forget what it means - flash fast and OK or slow and controller issue...But I tried it once and it fixed the same problem but then a few months later, I was rebuilding the shift motor. Look here for that and a ton of other good repair ideas. http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
Then alos look here for how the EFI/engine controls system works! http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/

 

I meant that's right - it goes out that fast. My theory is the little stop screw looses it's plastic bushing and the motor travels too far and then the sensor disc looses track of where the motor is. So it is a mechanical failure that just kills it immediately. This will make more sense when you read the draco website on it.

 

I read several of the descriptions on how to fix the problem and for sure that's where mine lies.BUT, due to bad english in some of the guides and never having messed with electronic 4x4 myself I'm still a little confused as to the course of action and which one I should take since it seems many people only had to do a variation. If there is a little plastic stopper, can I not just replace it to get the motor to stop in the right places. And how will I know by looking at the shift motor, if I need to actually pop it out and take care of connections. I am far from home going to school and my tools and shop didn't make the trip, not to mention subzero weather, so I'm asking as many questions as I can. Thanks for the replies though.

 

This job is a nothing to worry about issue. On the 93 I just did, the transfer case shift motor looks just like a windshield wiper motor but its installed on the back of the transfer case, just infront of the rubber damper. There are 3 little bolts to remove ( triangle positioning ) The unit slides out. I just cut the ground wire that goes inside the transfer case and wire cripped it on reinstall. Just make sure when you reinstall the motor ( I got a few used ones from the wrecker and tested them all just by plugging them in and sat them on the skid plate ) the little arrow on the case is pointed to 2wd before the motor goes in and you should have no problems

maybe this helps good luck

 

Rubber damper? Dude this thing is cast iron and heavy!

Don't have to cut the (not ground) brown speed sensor wire. You can disassembly the connector and pull the pin back through the back end of the connector. Just need a small screwdriver to depress the plastic ratiners next to the pin itself. I think it was the pind in the dead middle of the connector.

This assembly is very detailed so it's difficult to write up the process and capture everything. What you see on this post and the Draco web site will help but you will not fully understand the assembly until you take it apart. It is very, very easy - just very detailed.

Pay close attention to details like taking off the round cover on the sensor housing. Try not to tear the gasket. I did on mine ut it actually helped me align the sensor disc back up when I reassembly (and used a little RTV to seal it). Make sure you scribe locating lines on both the sensor housing/cover and the motor housing/cover before you take them apart. The sensor housing is very critical. If it's off, the T-case wont get rotated to the right positions. Not difficult, just need to watch what you are doing.

As far as spare parts, I have not even heard of the motor itself ever going bad. Some guys have replaced the motor brushes while they were there. that's up to you. Minewere barely worn. The motor shaft has a wom gear drive on the end. It spins the worm gear at about 100:1 ratio. Gear turns the input shaft of the T-case. On the back end of the gear is a screw head used as a stop. This is where the little plastic bushing goes. Use a 1/4 ID x 1/16 wall polyurethane tubing about 3/8 inch long as the replace. Piece of cake. Should take ay most 4 hours.