Sand blasting advice needed
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 3
From: okla
I do agree that the other media is best for most blasters. However, we have a fellow here that has been blasting with sand for at least 30 years. He has done some of the most valuable high dollar restorastions, and most all of the vehicles in my circle of friends around here, including my three. I can assure you I have heard more complaints about the local " media blasters" than I have ever heard about his work. BUT HE KNOWS AND CARES WHAT HE IS DOING. Unfortunatly he is 70 and looking hard at retirement. I realize not every area has a guy like him, but some may.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
Originally Posted by AXracer
Be sure the blaster is using ONLY plastic media, walnut shell or baking soda or a mix of these, NOT SAND or BEADS!!!! The first three will remove paint and even bondo if he works at it, but not damage or work harden the metal. If he uses sand or beads, you might as well just push the truck over a cliff now and save the headaches and heartaches when it comes back. 
Get a guy who knows what he is doing and you won't have problems. But, it's ultimately your decision, I'm only going by my experience
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Southern Connecticut
sandblasting
just had my Hood, and 2 rear fenders blasted at a company here in CT. Place has good reputation, does lots of cars and sheetmetal. they used sand on my stuff because it had lots of surface rust, but they do have other media available. charged $120 for the hood and $60 per fender, to do both inside and outside. pieces came out very good, no warpage.
However, I have warped sheetmetal in the past at home with a pressure blaster and sand.
I used Nason select-prime which is an epoxy/urethane primer over the bare metal. some spots got a high build epoxy primer on top of that.
However, I have warped sheetmetal in the past at home with a pressure blaster and sand.
I used Nason select-prime which is an epoxy/urethane primer over the bare metal. some spots got a high build epoxy primer on top of that.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
There's always exceptions to every rule, my rule is just because you can doesn't mean you should. I just go with what the experts recommend, and who they use. I tell my own jewelry customers: there are 3 ways this work can be done: cheap, quick, or right; the first two requires cut corners to save money and/or time, which do you want? If you want cheap or quick I recommend you go elsewhere, but when you bring it back to fix what they did as well, it's going to cost a lot more and take even longer.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 863
Likes: 2
From: Grain Valley Mo.
Originally Posted by AXracer
Be sure the blaster is using ONLY plastic media, walnut shell or baking soda or a mix of these, NOT SAND or BEADS!!!! The first three will remove paint and even bondo if he works at it, but not damage or work harden the metal. If he uses sand or beads, you might as well just push the truck over a cliff now and save the headaches and heartaches when it comes back.
If anyone here needs to push their truck over a cliff, I have a small hill in my back yard that might qualify.... Hey, anything for my buddies.
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XFM...
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Highwood, Montana
Project48, do you have any experience with metal-prepping? AX touched on it in his reply. It's a chemical process that basically coats your bare metal with a zinc phoshorous. I did that on my frame and body parts after they were blasted, pics in my gallery, it's a similar process to what the mfgrs do with newer cars. This way, if you happen to wet-sand though your primer, or if you get a deep rock chip your metal won't rust underneath. A very good idea if you're keeping this pickup long-term.
Gary
Gary
