crane 904?
If you're looking for a 100% guaranteed way to assure any cam will work with a non-adjustable valvetrain, you're not going to find it. I'd get the cam, pre-assemble it, check preload, and go from there. And budget for either the adjustable setup or custom pushrods.
On the springs, Crane recommends part number 96801.
-crane 343941-$109
-lifters-$48
-pushrods-$45
-rocker arms-$209 ( i think i can get those a little cheaper from napa)
-valve springs-$91.99
-balancing of 390 crank/rods and 360 pistons-$220 from my machinist
ok so we're looking at a $500 valvetrain and $220 rotating assembly which makes $720. this leaves me with $280 for my carb which i've found one that will cost $170 and is a Holley fact. rebuilt. now i'm down to $110 and keep in mind i have since then found a $25 4v intake from the yard. this is a dangerous question but what would you do with the other $110 if you could spend it?? i'm gonna get headers later on as an experiment to see what my 390 unleashes from stock manifolds to headers too. so would you go with? a better timing gear setup, aluminum pulleys??? uh oh woops i just remembered i'm gonna need new rings...got any idea how much those things will run 40-60?? also if you're wondering, my dad got me the 390 crank/rod setup for my birthday and christmas combined and he threw in the new bearings and gasket set so thats where thats coming from. thanks again for your knowledge-hope this made sense!
-what plugs would you run with this setup-just regular autolites or would i need a hotter plug?
-what weight oil would you recommend? i've always run 10w40 in my 360 and i live in northeast ga where it rarely gets below probably like 20 of which i just won't drive unless i have to.
-should i go with the coldest thermostat to help the motor? i've got a 4row modine with the steel plate riveted to the back of my waterpump impeller to reduce cavitation and currently a 180 therm.
thanks once again!!! this is too much info to just be for free!
First for the $110. How much machining is already done? Is the block bored over, cam bearings installed, freeze plugs installed, oil gallery plugs installed, valves ground / replaced as necessary, valve guides checked and replaced as necessary, and the rod small end bushings replaced? Machining could kill your budget right here and now if it's not done yet and you're already down to $110.
Now the questions:
-Dont know yet. We haven't settled on a build.
-Run 15w40 or 10w30 diesel rated oil. It has the proper additives to protect the cam.
-ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! The colder the thermostat, the more cylinder bore wear you will have. Run a 180.
Honestly, and I'm not trying to be hard on you or anything, but I'd take some of the money and go buy some books. I suggest:
"How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines" by Steve Christ, ISBN # 0-89586-070-8
"The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting" by Rick Voegelin, ISBN # 1-884089-26-7
"Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors" by Dave Emanuel, ISBN # 0-931472-08-3
You'll learn a lot and I think you'll have much better results with your engine rebuild. Best investment you can make at this point IMO.



