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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Will this radiator work?

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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
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Will this radiator work?

While going through my "to-do" list for my 54, I came across having to re-install or replace the radiator, and came up with this question.

Will the stock radiator out of my 223ci I6 3spd F100 work for the same truck with a '84 Ford 351W V8, if it is "gone through", and checked out for everything and anything wrong with it?

The truck will not do any towing, hauling, or anything like that, except for haulin a "lil you know what "(if ya know what I mean). It is purely a nice weather driver and a show-going truck, since I have a truck to haul with and drive in the usual Iowa crappy weather. The driveline is a 351W with an AOD(w/a good sized tranny cooler on it), and the stock Dana rear. The only "excessive thing" on the motor is the power steering pump, no A/C, smog pump, etc..., just Alternator, Water pump, and Power Steering Pump.

If not, any suggestions on a radiator I could pick up from a parts-yard or swap meet that would fit relatively well?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 10:07 PM
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My 56 was originally a 6, occording to the VIN tag. I am running a warmed up 351C behind the stock radiator. Had it gone thru by a local shop and pressure tested 3 years ago. No problems...and I have a lead foot. Your stocker should be fine.
 

Last edited by Randy Jack; Nov 27, 2005 at 10:17 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 09:19 AM
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so you can have a shop runn something thru the old radiator? mine is in good shape and doesn't look like there is anything wrong with beside that fact of sitting empty for a longer then a year so there might be a rust issue
 
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the info, I thought it would be okay, since the radiator is pretty good sized, but I wasn't sure. I can tell you it was a 6 originally since I just took it out a year or so ago, so I am sure of that. Thanks again for the information.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 06:08 PM
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Make sure the air deflectors, bottom splashpan seal, upper radiator shroud seal are all present and in good shape. A good sized thermostatically controlled electric fan will also help keep it cool. Don't believe the old wives tales that changing the temp rating or completely removing the thermostat from the engine will make it run cooler, it won't.
Modern engines tend to require less cooling capacity that the old ones did due to thinner casting walls, better machining tollerences, better materials, better engineering. The small block should have plenty of airspace around it in our huge engine bays.
 

Last edited by AXracer; Nov 28, 2005 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Jack
My 56 was originally a 6, occording to the VIN tag. I am running a warmed up 351C behind the stock radiator. Had it gone thru by a local shop and pressure tested 3 years ago. No problems...and I have a lead foot. Your stocker should be fine.

Here goes a dumb question. My stock radiator seems fine, but is for a standard trans. I hope to someday swap in a more modern drivetrain with an AOD.

You are running an FMX, so how does that work with the stock radiator or was yours an automatic originally?

If I don't have to replace it, thats a bit of money I can use elsewhere.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:11 PM
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Brian...your question was for RJ but he signed off and your still there so if I may...you can buy an auto trans cooler from the aftermarket fairly cheap. This is a small finned cooler that mounts in front of your rad. Then you run your lines to it. They cool as well if not better than stock.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:13 PM
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Brian,

Just add an external transmission cooler, best location being out front of the radiator in the airstream. If you look at most heavy equipment, there are individual radiators/coolers for each system, engine cooling, transmission cooling, hydraulic fluid cooling, charge-air cooling, etc. Putting a cooler in an older radiator is not the best of choices. I know that our local premier transmission shop here in town does away with (Bypasses) the in-radiator cooler and adds an external cooler on all rebuilds that they do. HTH

Johnny
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:18 PM
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I wondered if thats what they were doing. I have had the factory coolers (radiator)and a smaller "stacked plate" one on the last 3 vehicles I have owned. As long as it works, sounds like a plan. Thanks for the info. Thats a lot cheaper than replacing a good radiator.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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my 87 bronco II with the al4d had a tranny cooler in front of the ac and rad. and it was factory stock. So even Ford did it.
 

Last edited by havi; Dec 16, 2005 at 09:02 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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Factory fords had coolers in the radiators too...thats why I asked. Most vehicles do. All of my last 3 were fords with both coolers (89 ranger, 88 f-150, and 01 explorer). The auxillary ones are small though. I would think you would need a big one to cool the trans by itself. I will do some research into sizes when I get the doner.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:32 PM
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I just had another thought about aux coolers. If you bypass the rad and go only through the cooler, will the oil get warm enough in the winter time? Maybe we will hear from some tranny guys or guys who have run coolers only.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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I believe yer right about the coolers on the newer fords, I can't remember clearly that far back...lol. But as a thought, maybe if you had the rad. rebottomed with a tranny cooler inside, it would give more of a factory look, if that's what yer looking for.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:40 PM
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No...thats not what I was getting at. I was trying to find out if the stock radiator would have to be replaced. I do not want to spend any extra money that I do not have to. That just prolongs the process. I have a serious lack of funds.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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i do too. but a big aux. cooler will still run 45-60 bucks. I just read captradiators post and stand corrected to the re-bottoming issue.
 

Last edited by havi; Dec 16, 2005 at 09:02 PM.
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