When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Recently I have had to spray my carb to get the choke to operate smoothly. About once a week I have to pull the air cleaner off and unstick the choke from being open. It is making the engine run goofy and causing the truck to deisel when I turh it off. It is a 2bbl stock carb on a 79 F150 with a 351m. The carb has about 35,000 on it. Is it time to rebuild? Can I just replace the electric choke or are there bushings or something that may be bad? Thanks for any help.
I have the same engine/carb combo with the same problems. The stock choke unit should be operated by heat tubes coming from the intake, not by electric. I've heard that there is an electric choke conversion kit that is available for the motorcraft 2150, but my local parts store is not aware of it. I would like to upgrade to that if possible.
So check for clogged choke tubes and check your timing as well.
I've been told that high idle speed can cause the dieseling as well. According to my tach (which is accurate), my truck idles at 1000rpm (winter or summer). But it only diesels when the choke is on in the winter, but I guess that this could contribute to the dieseling condition.
I am unsure if the vacuum diaphragm on my truck is working. It connects to the choke linkage, but the attaching rod slides thorough a hole in the arm of the diaphragm. Is this supposed to be stiffly attached?
What does this diaphragm do? DOes it help to disengage the choke?
http://members.rogers.com/mattjibb/vac.JPG
Weldman, that unit pulls the choke open when the throttle is wide open. It is supposed to have a "sliding" type linkage. It comes into play when the engine is flooded, and you open the throttle all the way to start it.
79Slug, you can buy new choke spring and housing kits for the auto choke. The spring tends to wear out over time; this may cure your sticking problem. They are cheap, and it's worth a shot...
Maybe I just had too much time on my hands however....I removed all my choke linkage and polished it with emery cloth. I re-assembled it and it has never given me a problem since. I actually think my sticky linkage was due to corrosion buildup along the shafts where they pass through the carb. This is a spot the spray cleaner would never really touch.
I got mad at mine last week and took the carb off and tore the choke down and cleaned it up. While I was putting it all back together I noticed that the curved arm that the high idle screw is supposed to ride on was bent to the side. I straightened this out and put a little dab of grease on it. Started the truck up and when it idled up I just backed the high idle screw up until it idled down. Now it doesn't idle as high anymore. Just something to take a look at.
1978 F-150 flareside. Primitive by todays standards but she was a jaw dropper back then. :-staun
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.