Plumbers, sump pump question.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Mercer County, OH
Plumbers, sump pump question.
I'm going to be installing a second sump pump and check valve 8-10" above the main pump in case the main pump stops working. The instructions say I should drill a 1/8" hole between the pump and check valve to prevent an air lock. I know there isn't a hole in the main discharge line and it's working fine. Is this hole really necessary?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
Where's the check-valve? In the discharge piping?
Does this discharge into the sewer system? Recently here on Long Island, we had 8 days of torrential rain, and many sump pumps are hooked to the sewer system. Well, the sewer backed up - and besides, it's illegal to discharge into the sewer system. I'd check to see if it's legal before you do it, if that's what you're doing
Does this discharge into the sewer system? Recently here on Long Island, we had 8 days of torrential rain, and many sump pumps are hooked to the sewer system. Well, the sewer backed up - and besides, it's illegal to discharge into the sewer system. I'd check to see if it's legal before you do it, if that's what you're doing
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From: Masontown, WV
The reason you need the hole is to prevent an air lock in the pump. In your application it is very important to have it because your pump will most likely never have water in it until it’s needed. The hole should be drilled in the discharge pipe between the pump and the check valve in the sump if possible. If you’re not using a sump, keep the hole in a location that the small amount of water leakage won’t damage anything.
The air lock will form when water rises in the pump and the air being displaced by the water is trapped because of the check valve. Just like if you held a glass upside down in a sink and then filled the sink. When the water gets to the level to make the switch the pump will come on but can’t pump because it is full of air. The hole lets the trapped air escape and the pump fill with water.
The air lock will form when water rises in the pump and the air being displaced by the water is trapped because of the check valve. Just like if you held a glass upside down in a sink and then filled the sink. When the water gets to the level to make the switch the pump will come on but can’t pump because it is full of air. The hole lets the trapped air escape and the pump fill with water.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Lethbridge,Alberta,Canada
If it was me, I would put a fitting in like a t, then I would put an adapter in the t to attach 1/4'' copper tubing to it. I would then run the copper back down into the sump. But before I run it into the sump, I would squish the end a bit to make it smaller so not too much water comes out when the pump discharges. If you do it this way, you don't need to worry about water leaking everywhere.
Junior User
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From: Lethbridge,Alberta,Canada
Yes, but if the discharge pipe is 1 1/2'' and the tube routed back into the sump is squished smaller than 1/8'', it will let the air out of the pipe ok, but the vast majority of the water will be pumped through the discharge pipe. I would be suprised if you got a steady stream out of the 1/4'' tubing. The water will follow the path of least resistance.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Langhorne, PA
Here is a plumbing website..looks like FTE, but without the trucks.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php?
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php?
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Fleet Mechanic
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Do you have room to set the pumps side by side in the pit? If you do I'd set them that way and install a pump alternator. I've seen a lot of pumps installed in the air and just their "foot" gets wet and they lock-up from lack of use. Also I like to put the Hole in the pipe at the very top of the pump so the water splashes on the pump body. The newer pumps pull the water down pretty low and if they rapidly cycle they can get pretty warm. If you install them the way you put in your original post, exercise the pump once a month.
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