With All The Coolants Out There Today,and The Coolant Additives,why Couldn't You Run Some Soluable Oil In The Radiator Instead Of Additive To Prevent Cavitation?i Know It Worked Great On My Cars I Had In High School.curious If Anyone Has Tried It.

 

The addative in very basic terms deposits a sacrificial layer on the inside of the engine.

So then when the vibration induced cavitation occurs it is eating the sacrificial layer instead of the engine.

Cavitation is caused by bubbles that vibration of the cylinder walls cause.
The bubbles imploding is what eats the holes, not rust which the oil would stop.
I would also be concerned about how it would affect the heat transfer inside the engine.

 

Thanks Dave.that Explanation Of Cavatation Explains Exactly What Goes On Inside The Motor.one More Quick Question.you Seem To Have A Great Amount Of Knowledge On These 6.9 Motors.i'm Starting To Do Head Gaskets Today.(fun Time)i Thought I Read A Post From You,but Can't Find It Now,about Putting A Small Amount Of Rtv Sealant Somewhere On The New Head Gaskets.i Bought The Fel-pro Gasket Kit Along With New Head Bolts.my Chilton Book Says 75 Lbs For Head Bolts.once Again,i Thought I Read Somewhere To Torque Them To 100 Lbs.what Do You Suggest For Head Bolt Torque.motor Is A Bone Stock 6.9.if You Have A Picture Of Where The Rtv Goes,i Would Greatly Appreciate It.thanks Agin.

 

The RTV sealant was on the block heater O ring.
The head gaskets need to go on absolutely clean surfaces, wipe both surfaces with acetone or some other degreaser to remove all traces of oil before installing the gaskets.

Head bolt torque on the 6.9 in 85 was;
First step 40
Second step 70
Third step 80
Fourth step 80

The 100 or 110 was for the 7.3 and the 7.3 turbo motors.
The 7.3 has 1/2" head bolts where the 6.9 has 7/16" head bolts.
I don't think I would exceed the torque values with stock head bolts since they are prone to stretching.

Also you should lubricate the head bolts prior to install, but don't dip them in a can of oil and install them, wipe the oil on with a rag sparingly you don't want the oil to contaminate the clean head or block deck surfaces with oil. Two of the reman engines I tore down were having headgasket problems as a result of to much assembly oil. The water passage rubbers had slid out of place when the head was torqued on. One of the engines had so much oil in the bolt holes that the bolt torque was not near up to spec. We think the bolts were hydrauliced againt the oil which showed false torque specs at assembly time. I know that after 2700 miles of running the torque values on the head bolts was less than half of the 110 ft. lbs it should have been on a 7.3 turbo motor.

After tearing down four 7.3 turbo motors in 18 months looking for what was wrong I did learn a few things. I am not proud of how much those lessons cost me though.
I am also not proud of the fact that I am currently either riding the shoe leather express or a company Dodge for transportation.

 

The Shoe Leather Express.too Funny.that Will Be Me For At Least 3-4 Days.thank You For The Torque Specs And Rtv Info.only Dilema Now Is That They Only Shipped 1 Set Of Head Bolts.kraegen's Computer Says Their Now Not Available.any Ideas On Who Has A Set Of New Head Bolts?

 

Been since August 12 since I drove my truck.

3 or 4 days would be cake.