When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i'd be on the phone to Pullrite. there is absolutly no reason that the 5th wheel should come unlocked. is there any damage to the trailer part of the hitch? anything bent, twisted, ect.. on the truck part of the 5th wheel hitch? if there isn't, most likely Pullrite is gonna tell you to go pound sand. if there IS, i'd say that you should put a claim against pullrite for damages to the truck and trailer, rental of another truck, and of course, a new hitch system.. keep us posted..
It's all brand new stuff as of August and I have been out with it only three times including my last. Problem is I can't say for sure if Pullrite's at fault since I failed to visually inspect the jaws eventhough I did do a "tug" test which held. I got to the top of the campground from a low lying campsite. It didn't pull out then, either. They are gonna say I locked in "high" with the king pin and the jaws were held open partially by the pin's head.
The tolerances are very close and I am wondering if the slik disk (teflon disk) which is about a quarter of an inch thick took up the free space for latching. I have to admit I am rattled by this. I have been towing for 25 years and this is a first for me. Also my first Fiver.
Don't fivers have a safety pin or something behind the latch to insure against unlocking? Seeems this could have been prevented.
Its probably because your trailer was too high when you hooked up the trailer. If the trailer were riding on top f the jaws instead of in the jaws, it was riding on top of the jaws but held by the safety slide bar. If the trailer was loaded, it might have rode. Once I saw an 18 wheeler load 20,000 pounds in Indianapolis and drove to Flint, Mi and put it in the dock and as soon as the trailer was empty, he went 5 foot and the trailer hit the ground. It had rode on top of the jaw but snagged by the safety slide bar. That is why DOT requires visual inspection. Just my opinion. It can't not work if you physically inspect it.
Oh man, my condolances.
I have a Reese and it doesn't have a second safety catch or anything like that. It's just two jaws that come together. You can't latch down the retainer unless it's properly engaged. I also use the teflon disc and everything fits perfectly, like it's designed to accomodate the teflon disc and still have about 1/16" freeplay up and down.
Its probably because your trailer was too high when you hooked up the trailer. If the trailer were riding on top f the jaws instead of in the jaws, it was riding on top of the jaws but held by the safety slide bar. If the trailer was loaded, it might have rode. Once I saw an 18 wheeler load 20,000 pounds in Indianapolis and drove to Flint, Mi and put it in the dock and as soon as the trailer was empty, he went 5 foot and the trailer hit the ground. It had rode on top of the jaw but snagged by the safety slide bar. That is why DOT requires visual inspection. Just my opinion. It can't not work if you physically inspect it.
I have a sneaky suspicion you are right on the mark. I had some "help" from my brother-in-law and I thought it was too high at the time. Usually I do it by myself by backing into the kingpin just short of touching the hitch platform then lower the trailer so as to allow the pin box to strike slightly below the top of the hitch platform as Pullrite suggests.
I appreciate your assessment. I think it's the best explaination there is.
Last edited by pops_91710; Nov 19, 2005 at 06:39 PM.
Kwikkordead said: "You can't latch down the retainer unless it's properly engaged."
This is something I think is missing in Pullrite's design. It at least gives you an indication of a false positive lock-up. Hmmmm. Something to consider. Although I have heard some great things about Pullrite's Super 5th, this appears to be a weak link. Now all I have to do is figure out how to live with it by adding some kind of safety pin or or positive engagement device such as you have.
Keep in mind the unlatching handle never gave any indication of not being set. It sprang home and was still it its proper position even after it was clearly unlatched accidently.
Last edited by pops_91710; Nov 19, 2005 at 06:47 PM.
Any hitch will do that if the pin is above the jaws or slide bar. zz350 was right on the head with his account. I've seen it happen more than once and his easy to do if you don't know what to look for. Usally there will be alot of play in the plate when you stop or go. It only has to be about 1" to high and will sit on top of the jaws or slide plate. You should have the trailer pin so that when you back under it it lifts the trailer some and then locks in not on top. Pullrites hitch or any of the others will do this and is not the fault of the hitch. You are not the first and won't be the last person this happens to. I quess we have to learn from our mistakes and be glad it didn't come off going down the road and hurt someone. Just makesure to look and make sure there is no gap between the hitchplate and trailer plate. I just make sure I know the trailer has to rise for the hitch to latch.
i am a mechanic for a large mass transit company in philadelphia. a also have my class A license and do alot of towing tractor trailers and buses. FIRESOUTMATT is correct. the common practice of any driver is, when you back under a trailer, the trailer should lift up, assuring a positive lock and placement of the kingpin into the jaws.
I do my own hooking up and I make sure it lifts the trailer, you don't have to lift it high, just make sure it raises it and slides on the plate. I watch it as I am backing under it and seeing just what I am doing, may have to get out to raise it some or lower it a couple of times but give me a little piece of mind when its done the right way.
a very useful idea which would prevent any future accidents of this sort is
to install a bedsaver or pinlock. It will "catch" your pin and hold it above
your truck's bedrails.
(do a google search on 'bedsaver' to find references to it).
a very useful idea which would prevent any future accidents of this sort is
to install a bedsaver or pinlock. It will "catch" your pin and hold it above
your truck's bedrails.
(do a google search on 'bedsaver' to find references to it).
Well, I googled it and found one just for my hitch and bought it! Fantastic Black350, I really appreciate that! Gotta love it!!
i am a mechanic for a large mass transit company in philadelphia. a also have my class A license and do alot of towing tractor trailers and buses. FIRESOUTMATT is correct. the common practice of any driver is, when you back under a trailer, the trailer should lift up, assuring a positive lock and placement of the kingpin into the jaws.
You and 50jd60 are right on. My novice status in 5th wheel trailer towing really is no excuse. I work for one of the largest fleets in the U.S. (Safeway Stores) and see these guys hook up every day. My one time lapse of following the routine cost me. Good thing it was only sheet metal and not flesh.
Thank you gentlemen for your help. Believe me it was greatly appreciated.