I'm getting ping.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 3
From: S. Mississippi
I'm getting ping.
My 83 F-150 w/ 300 has developed a case of ping. It appears around part throttle. I've adjusted the timing and it has dissapeared. Now a few weeks later now that the outside temps have changed (dropped) its came back again.
I'm running no EGR, no cats.
Do i need to clean out the chambers by running a cleaning solution down the carb? Its also got a case of dieseling after shutdown also.
Any suggestions are welcome.
I'm running no EGR, no cats.
Do i need to clean out the chambers by running a cleaning solution down the carb? Its also got a case of dieseling after shutdown also.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Could be your fuel, but since Ford designed these vehicles to run on 87 octane....
I'd have the ignition module checked, replace if defective. These modules tend to fail due to tempuratue. Too Hot. The most common fault is the tach part not being able to sence proper tach signal from the coil. This will not cause the engine to quit running (at the beginning), though it will cause weird timing problems and shifts in timing however. It's possible when you changed your timing it fixed your problem until the temps have cooled, and now its off again, (or right again depending on your point of view.
). Reset your timing back to where it was. 
and check the module.
Also If you have a MCU module: Microcomputer Control Unit,
-check the spark retard solonoid for proper operation.
-check the Fuel control solonoid on the carb. Is it operating correctly?
-check the O2 sensor If plugged with exaust deposits replace. Tells the computer it's running too lean, and therfore the computer richens the mixture up, causes "run on".
That's the most comon, causes...
Hope this helps.
I'd have the ignition module checked, replace if defective. These modules tend to fail due to tempuratue. Too Hot. The most common fault is the tach part not being able to sence proper tach signal from the coil. This will not cause the engine to quit running (at the beginning), though it will cause weird timing problems and shifts in timing however. It's possible when you changed your timing it fixed your problem until the temps have cooled, and now its off again, (or right again depending on your point of view.
). Reset your timing back to where it was. and check the module.Also If you have a MCU module: Microcomputer Control Unit,
-check the spark retard solonoid for proper operation.
-check the Fuel control solonoid on the carb. Is it operating correctly?
-check the O2 sensor If plugged with exaust deposits replace. Tells the computer it's running too lean, and therfore the computer richens the mixture up, causes "run on".
That's the most comon, causes...
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: S. Mississippi
The engine has no computer controls at all. No o2 sensor. Strictly Duraspark II setup. I didn't know that the DSII module had a tach sensing function. That explains why i'm not getting a tach signal at my instrument cluster. That would also explain why the two i have aren't working.
Guess ya learn something new every day.
Guess ya learn something new every day.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
I would also make sure the Tach wire from the coil has a good connection. Check for continuitiy etc..
The green wire goes from the Tach test pole on your coil and goes to the fender skirt on the left side where there are one or two pigtail plugs. The green wire splits into two at these pigtails and one goes to your tachometer and the other goes to the duraspark II.
I suspect that it may not be getting a good enough connection at one of the plugs. or there is a broken wire somewhere between the coil and one of these plugs.
That would explain why both the tach and the module are not operating correctly. and not having a good tach signal from the coil to the module would give you the same symptoms as a faulty module, and explain why your tach doesn't work.
I would have the module checked anyway to be safe. It's free at many big chain auto parts stores. Just make sure they test it several times to heat it up. It may not fail until it's heated up. etc...
Hope this helps
The green wire goes from the Tach test pole on your coil and goes to the fender skirt on the left side where there are one or two pigtail plugs. The green wire splits into two at these pigtails and one goes to your tachometer and the other goes to the duraspark II.
I suspect that it may not be getting a good enough connection at one of the plugs. or there is a broken wire somewhere between the coil and one of these plugs.
That would explain why both the tach and the module are not operating correctly. and not having a good tach signal from the coil to the module would give you the same symptoms as a faulty module, and explain why your tach doesn't work.
I would have the module checked anyway to be safe. It's free at many big chain auto parts stores. Just make sure they test it several times to heat it up. It may not fail until it's heated up. etc...
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: S. Mississippi
I shook and prodded the tach test lead at the coil when i installed the first cluster w/ tach. I never thought about doing it where the green wire goes into the dsII box.
I've got a spare module, i'll try swapping that on. Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes and would clearly ID my problem. Failing that then i'll go bother the counter-top commando's at the parts place, and make em check it.
Thanks!
I've got a spare module, i'll try swapping that on. Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes and would clearly ID my problem. Failing that then i'll go bother the counter-top commando's at the parts place, and make em check it.
Thanks!
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
I'm getting ping
The first thing I did when I got my 79F100 was to replace the coil, voltage regulator, cap, rotor, and ignition module with standard brands 'Blue Streak's.
Standard Brands has three grades: Green, Red, and Blue Streaks. Green is the El Cheapo. Red is OEM (kinda sorta, as my 11-year old sez). Blue Streak is top of the line. They cost more, to be sure. But in 7 years and 210,000 miles I have not had a single problem with them.
That's my .02 worth.
Standard Brands has three grades: Green, Red, and Blue Streaks. Green is the El Cheapo. Red is OEM (kinda sorta, as my 11-year old sez). Blue Streak is top of the line. They cost more, to be sure. But in 7 years and 210,000 miles I have not had a single problem with them.
That's my .02 worth.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 3
From: S. Mississippi
I'm sorry i hadn't gotten back to this thread. I fixed the ping problem. I found a connector that goes into my DSII module disconnected. A green wire from the tach to it. Plugged er in and i killed two birds with one stone. Pinging stopped, and my tach started working.
Then again, the reason for the ping could have been bad fuel, i dunno. Either way i think thats what fixed it.
Thanks for the help ya'll. I appreciate it
Then again, the reason for the ping could have been bad fuel, i dunno. Either way i think thats what fixed it.
Thanks for the help ya'll. I appreciate it
Last edited by desperado_18_2000; Nov 26, 2005 at 10:42 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
I'm glad you found your problem!
Not having a tach signal to the DSII would cause problems as you described. The DSII had no way of judging how fast the engine was turning, and couldn't function correctly. The DSII was in guess mode, or limp home mode as it were, and saying to it'self, "Am I Idling? Am I going 2000 RPM???" etc.... With the wire connected the DSII can now say. "I know exactly where to set timing" instead of trying to "guess" at it.
And since the Tachometer and the DSII gets it's tach reading from the same place, the tach test pole on the coil... they both now work as they should.
Hope that explains what was going on.
Glad you fixed the problem.
Not having a tach signal to the DSII would cause problems as you described. The DSII had no way of judging how fast the engine was turning, and couldn't function correctly. The DSII was in guess mode, or limp home mode as it were, and saying to it'self, "Am I Idling? Am I going 2000 RPM???" etc.... With the wire connected the DSII can now say. "I know exactly where to set timing" instead of trying to "guess" at it.
And since the Tachometer and the DSII gets it's tach reading from the same place, the tach test pole on the coil... they both now work as they should.
Hope that explains what was going on.
Glad you fixed the problem.