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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Running board body work

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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 10:38 PM
  #1  
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Running board body work

Two running board restoration questions for a 48 F-1. First, the outside, verticle edge of both running boards, has a fairly rough, walnut shell like surface. I've done lots of hammer work on them, but I can't get them smooth enough. If I skim that surface with bondo, will it hold up? That area won't get stepped on, but it may still flex during use, and it's a fairly long surface. Second, on the top, step surface, I've welded in some small patch panels. I've got a few small weld bead pits to fill. With all the talk of using lead, what about solder for something that small? I'm sure bondo would be out as that area will see foot traffic.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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Lead will hold paint. I'm not sure about the solder. Would depend on what you used. For the small weld porosity, I would just use bondo or perhaps a good caulk that that can be worked and will hold paint.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 12:10 AM
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You can try an epoxy similar to JB Weld. You can paint it also. Bonds like metal.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by imlowr2
You can try an epoxy similar to JB Weld. You can paint it also. Bonds like metal.
Forget what I said earlier. This is the better route to go.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 07:40 AM
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The boards on my F-2 were pretty nice but still needed a little work. I straightened the edges as best as I could and the laid a thin coat of bondo on them. I also did the same with the one small patch I did over the channel brace that runs on an angle under the board where the board always rot. I then sprayed them with black chip guard, you could also use bed liner. It hides any imperfections and holds up really well. I did this at least seven years ago and still looks like it did when I did it. Also, if you would scratch the board from every day use, you can easily dab a little coating to cover the repair and with textured surface you won't be able to see it.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 08:28 AM
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I have sucessfully done these small repairs with Gorilla Hair, it is amazing stuff!! I think you could almost put threads in it when it sets up. It's waterproof and it finishes and paints just like regular body filler.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 08:44 AM
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Tim -

What in the world is Gorilla Hair? And where can one find it?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 09:03 AM
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also called kitty hair. Most body shop and automotive paint suppliers carry it, bondo that has fine fibers in it, give it a coat of catalized spot putty after to prevent fibers from telegraphing thru paint
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Tim -

What in the world is Gorilla Hair? And where can one find it?
On a Gorilla LOL
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 11:45 AM
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Chuck is right, I have had sucess with sanding the surface with 600 grit to remove the excess strands and priming it with dura-build.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rhopper
I'm sure bondo would be out as that area will see foot traffic.
I've used a product called Everglass, made by Evercoat. For your application I think it'd be a better choice over the Kitty Hair/Gorilla Hair that's been previously mentioned. Can be used on metal or fiberglass due to its' flexibility. Sands down really smooth compared to the Kitty Hair, you don't have all those strands to have to bury under a thick primer. Really tough stuff, no worries about foot traffic damaging it.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 10:39 PM
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A thin coat of bondo on the side should be just find. I also think bondo would hold up on the top surface as well but some of the other ideas mentioned would work as well.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mtskibum16
A thin coat of bondo on the side should be just find. I also think bondo would hold up on the top surface as well but some of the other ideas mentioned would work as well.
mtskibum16,
Would you comment a little bit more on the 'bondo' you're talking about? If you're talking about the bondo you can get at the local auto parts store, they use a talc-based body filler which is prone to water absorbtion and cracking.
The application rhopper is describing would be prone to flexing, where regular 'bondo' would tend to crack, even with a thin application.
Would appreciate your feedback.

Edit: Ten years ago the 'Bondo' branded stuff at auto parts stores was talc-based. Have they changed the formula since then?
 

Last edited by desertdave55; Nov 19, 2005 at 01:05 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 05:45 AM
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Talking

Great info guys - my F-3 boards had holes and I put the regular fiberglass on it. Hard and brittle now. I may put an actual 2 x 10 board on top of the metal or replace the metal with board if it gets real bad. I'll try some of your suggestions in the spring. One car garge, truck is under a tarp, wife's suv in the garage - you know the drill. Now my 8 year old wants a baja bug to work on - yep - not a typo - my 8 year old. Perhaps I am setting a bad example.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 08:02 AM
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Boy 48tordf3,
Youv'e been misdirected in life.
You should be like me.............
De-tached 3-car garage, Bay 1, 1948 F-5; Bay 2, 1986 Ford Stepside 4x4; Bay 3 1997 Ford Flareside 4x4 Lariat; Kubota Tractor in between Bays 2 & 3.
Wife's Merc ........................Outside

She's the "boss of the house" ........The Garage is Mine!
 
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