Hi everyone, I'm new here so go easy on me. Now,I want to know if I can grind the heads off of my 93 f-150 door hinges and put new bushings and pins in? My doors are sagging and I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY THE LOCAL BODY SHOP THAT i will have to replace the whole hinge. I have also been told that the hinges on my truck can be fixed by replacing the pins and bushings.cAN ANYONE WHO HAS EVER DONE THIS GIVE ME SOME ADVISE?? THANKS IN ADVANCE.

 

not a hard job at all. you need a dremel tool to get inside the hinge. i have a link to a lincoln site that shows how to do it. i will look it up and post link.

here you go: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article45.html

first one is the hardest, maybe 45 minutes after that 20 or so.

it is easy to break cutting disk so get a 5 pack.

trim the bolt to length before you put it in if you have too.

good luck.

 

I find it much easier just to take the door off, then the hinges, then work on the hinges in a vice. While one can do this in the door jamb, I'd worry about nailing the paint with the dremel. Plus on your workbench, you can skip the slower dremel and use a die grinder or a grinding wheel in a 4-1/2" angle grinder. Then hammer in the bushings and the pins and you're good to go.

Before you put any effort into it, you can use door hinges from 86ish to 97, so maybe a quick trip to a local junkyard will give you a nice set of hinges. I found a set for my crewcab out of the junkyard this past summer. A junked pickup had brand new door hinges... so I grabbed them. And, the four hinges cost me $10 including the bolts.

If you want to do the pins over, any auto store that has the "Help" section, will have the door pins. Cost about $5 for one pin, and two bushings. That's why I bought the junkyard hinges... less work, and cheaper.

 

Quicklook2, Frederic,------Thanks Guys . This is just what I wanted to know.The link provided looks pretty cut & dry. I just ordered a pin and bushing kit from a co. in florida off of Ebay and will attempt this project after I gather more knowlege about it.The Ford parts place wanted 57.00 for the kit for two doors. Bought the kit online for 14.75 for both doors.Will post a follow up after the install. THANKS TO BOTH OF YOU!!!

 

I just replaced the pins on my buddy's truck.

We just used a sawzall and cut the pin in half, punched it out, then removed the remains of the bushing top/bottom, and then marked the location of the hindge bracket on the door, and unbolted that. Then we pressed the new bushings in with a c-clamp. Put the hinge bracket on to my marks and put the new pin in and it was all set. The door closed in the right alignment.

We didn't take the door off because we felt it was too much of a pain to get the wiring out of the door and deal with that grommet. We did 1 pin at a time and it worked out well.

You shouldn't have to replace the hinges unless the bushings were completely worn out and the pin was wearing on the hole of the hinge. I doubt that was the case though. With my buddy's truck, the bushings were worn, the hinges were fine, but the whole door was so loose you couldn't close it without picking it up.

 

I didnt know Ford doors ever had this problem. I mean I'm sure it happens....

Every late 80's early 90's chevy I've ever seen in my life has had saggy doors that won't close unless up pick up on the door (Theres one sittin in my driveway...) Freakin chebbys anyways.

 

Any vehicle that has door pins made of mild steel will have this problem eventually. It's less common in smaller, 4-door cars because the doors are much lighter. Truck doors, town car doors, and doors from 2-door cars are quite heavy.

 

A sawz all works best. Just cut the pin in half and pull out both ends, remove the door and bushings. Replace them in reverse order.

 

I need more advice- I replaced the pins in one door today. The old bushing's that I took out were not worn at all!! With the new pins and bushing's the door closes ok but the problem is still there.I can close the door and with my hand still on the outside handle,I can push the door in and out and here it rattle. I guess that this is my problem and not the hinge pins. The door is very loose where it latches at the lock. Is there an adjustment for this.I'm tired of air comming into the cab because of this loose fitting.Thanks for your help in advance.

 

you can see if the bushings are bad by pulling up on door, you will see movement.

is stricker loose or worn down?

are bolts on hinges loose?

you need to descibe exactly what is loose for us to help you correctly.

 

I have the same problem with my drivers side door (dumb kids, like me when I was younger) aren't quite tall enough to get into a big truck, so they use the door to hoist themselves up. All that extra weight is sure to bend the hinges up. This is also a reason that it doesn't happen to most smaller passenger cars, vertically challenged (children) can just step in, instead of climbing on the floor as I used to do or pulling themselves up with the door.

Anyway, if I'm to do this, will I need to support the door if I do it one pin at a time as mustang suggests? He does bring up a good point, we aren't ALL wiring geniuses ; ) Fred. lol.

~Matt

 

door striker pin missing plastic bushing.replace the pin on door frame where it latches

 

Hi Quicklook2--- The striker is not loose. the hingebolts are tight. But with the door shut I can push and pull on it and there is a lot of play in it.I'm hoping that this can be fixed by adjusting the striker. Can anyone here tell me how this is done??Thanks.

 

what "to many oft" just said... there's a plastic thing around the striker. Is that there? I know on mine, from trying to slam it shut a couple too many times, the plastic part broke. Now if it isn't twisted in the right direction it will latch (when I lift it up) and it will have play and sound like air at about 35 MPH. I think I saw them at Auto Zone for a couple bucks when I was looking at wire coating. It looks like the pin unscrews and the plactic slides on and off.

 

^the head of the striker, not the pin