Timing or Carb problem?
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From: Appleton, WI
Timing or Carb problem?
This is the stock 390 in a 1964 Galaxie. I was in the middle of a burnout and the engine started to run bad. It was missing and backfiring, and I could hardly get the car back to my house. I checked the timing and it was all over the place and i can't get it to run right unless it is set at about 60 degrees. So i picked up a mallory unilite distributor machanical advance from a swap meet. The timing is concistant now but it still won't run unless its set a about 60 degrees. So i pulled the timing cover and the chain is tight let and lined up perfectly. If anyone has any ideas it would be appreciated. THANKS
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From: Appleton, WI
How do I check to see if the hub is slipping, And is it possible it has the wrong dampener?, anyone have pictures, or know if there are different dampeners?
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From: Appleton, WI
I have checked the timing with number 1 cylinder all the way up on the compression stroke and the doesn't quite line up so i move the distrubutor to line it up but then it won't start. I have to crank the engine over and move the distrubutor around and it will start up and run like it was.
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If the timing mark "0 BTC" doesn't line up to the tab on the timing cover when the engine is at TDC then the balancer has slipped. Remark this point as tdc. Try timing it at 10 - 14 btc from the new point. I also would pull the distributor and check the gear to make sure it is correctly pinned. Be careful to really look at this because it can look correct but the pin be sheared behind the gear and you can't see it.
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From: Clayton CA
Just throwing my two bits in.
If the balancer slipped the car wouldn't have started to run poorly as a result.
Piperig said he replaced the distributor so the gear shearing is also eliminated as a possibility.
It sounds like he's trying to set the timing 180 deg off.
If the balancer slipped the car wouldn't have started to run poorly as a result.
Piperig said he replaced the distributor so the gear shearing is also eliminated as a possibility.
It sounds like he's trying to set the timing 180 deg off.
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From: Appleton, WI
I will check to see if the hub slipped tonight. And to check if your on the compression stroke the number one piston should be all the way up with both valves closed Right? If thats right its not a 180 Degrees off
And I just remebered the ballast resister is not A Mallory one, but the local engine builder said it was the same. If this is screwing up the distrubutor or not giving it enough volts would it act like this or something. Any Ideas, I just remembered that
And I just remebered the ballast resister is not A Mallory one, but the local engine builder said it was the same. If this is screwing up the distrubutor or not giving it enough volts would it act like this or something. Any Ideas, I just remembered that
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From: Clayton CA
Right, both valves should be closed. But, just for grins, try rotating the engine a full turn and resetting the distributor.
The damper just provides an external reference to TDC. While knowing it's slipped is useful, it shouldn't prevent you from setting the timing properly.
If the distributor voltage was wrong, cranking your timing all out of whack wouldn't cure it. What type of distributor did you take out to begin with? Have you added the resistor or is it the one that was in the car already?
The damper just provides an external reference to TDC. While knowing it's slipped is useful, it shouldn't prevent you from setting the timing properly.
If the distributor voltage was wrong, cranking your timing all out of whack wouldn't cure it. What type of distributor did you take out to begin with? Have you added the resistor or is it the one that was in the car already?
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From: Appleton, WI
I took out the stock vacumm advance distriutor, and replaced it with a mallory unilite machanical distributor, and added a resistor. I checked to see if the hub slipped and it did. so with the #1 piston on TDC the pointer is pointing at the make i made where the engine run the best. So that explains why I thought it was running at 60 degrees but it still doesn't run right?
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From: Clayton CA
I don't know what your ignition system looks like but it's my guess you don't need the extra resistor. I'm running a Mallory Unilite in my '72 F-250 (original 390) and don't need the resistor; the stock Ford ignition wiring already has one. You could double check by measuring the voltage but I don't have the specs in front of me at the moment.