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well..i think i finally have an idea whats been hapnen with my ranger..its a 2.9...its been powerless lately...had the codes scanned..altho the guy was real secretive about releasing them?? i noticed one was 41...lean o2..said it was because of my exhaust leak...the other code..i didnt catch and he didnt tell...just said his scanner..told him that it was a Loose/Bad Ground..i looked over his shoulder..thought i saw...Spout-Ground?? he told me to look for a bad ground under/near my distributor? where do i look...is it the TFI wiring? please help me out a lil better than he did...so i can ROLL DOWN THE ROAD again!!! THANKS ALL!!
Cory
I hear ya Alfred...yes i plan to get one in the future..but he was pretty sold on the bad ground? figure i might as well check..but..even so..dont really know where to check..assuming theres a ground in my TFI?
PS. I cant spell Mekanic Thanks again!
Oh...one more thing..what should i buy for a tester? any suggestions?
well what i have been told to do is go into the engin compartment find the self test connector (on the passenger side in the corner big plug with 6 outlets in it). with the engin off conect the positive probe of a volt meter to the + side of the batery. unplug the STI(self test indicator) and connect a jumpe between the input pin 2 (see diagram below) and the STI pin. then stick the - probe in the 4 pin slot and set you volt meter on the 15 -20 volt scale. you will get 3 code types O- key on engin off C- continuous memory and R-engin running. you test O by turnning the igniton on and not starting the car. C codes will come RIGHT after the O codes so be ready. R codes come witht he engin running. you want to watch for sweeps of the meter so persay you get 2 sweeps 2 second pause 5 sweeps 4sec pause then your code is 25. ther ewill be a four sec pause between codes. write them down and post them here i have a book that i can translate them for you. if not you can always go to advance auto part i know they read codes and arn't stengy about them if yo uask to see.
---------------------------------------------------
D1 l (1) (2) (Self test output pin 4) (blank pin)l
l -----------
\ (STI) (blank) /
-------------------------------------
well the other qestion is have you ever done a real over haul on your truck? 2.9l are prone to crack and the headers are vary restrictive and are prone to rusting. i recomend that you take the time and do a whole run over and inspect everything just spend one saturday knocking it out. Check all the cencors and valves. If you pull something out and it looks odd then there is probly soemthing wrong with it and if you live close toand auto shop ther eis nothing wrong running it in and finding someone that hopefull y knows what they are doing to tell you if its broke(I.E. look for the redneck or older man. Sometimes rice runners but alot of time if they work at auto zone they are ther eto get the discount on a bolt on part) good luck and get me the codes when you get a chance
im pretty sure it was code 18....and Devil...ive put over $300 in tuneup parts..etc...plus im not a mechanic..so going over everything on this truck..on a Saturday(in the middle of deer hunting season) Does NOT appeal to me lol
i just thought someone could tell me if i were on the right track with the ground?
thanks for all of your time people...ill take it to a pro...one more time..after that..well...it may become a lawn ornament!
Thanks again!
yeah i just ment the basics vacume tubes, timming, wires, vacume boots, cannaster soo on if you put performace part in you car and its work up to now there is usally no need to check them again. well code 18 is Erratic IDM input to processor/ SPOUT circut grounded(thats if the car wasn't on when he checked, if it was then its just the SPOUT part). so i would check your Ignition Destributer Moduail(however you spell it) for cracks and bad connections. if its getting erratic readings then your distributer might have a few bad connections. so i geuss the shaddy guy was right somewhat. give your IDM one good run over check the wirring you could have striped a wire and its grounding out. About SPOUT i looked in my Haynes and Shop manual and couldn't find a dman thing about it i hope someone knows its drivign me crazy.
the spout (spark output signal) connector is usually located right near the distributor or ignition module plug. mine has distibutorless ignition and the spout is a small plug just a few inches from the top plug of the ignition module. it just looks like a blank gray plastic piece plugged into a female socket. some of the older models just had a single wire(i think white or black usually) that would unplug from near the distributor.
the purpose of the spout is basically a jumper wire for the ignition advance. usually you unplug it to reset the computer to base timing. if it is unplugged when you pull the codes you will get a code 18...or at least mine does. hope that helps some. and corso, if your lookin for a code reader still, go to advance autos web site and in the search box put in 3145, it should bring up a decent one for like $30.(i think it says 34.99, buy i got it for only 29.99?)
Last edited by axel21071; Nov 12, 2005 at 01:20 AM.
Well guys...i gave up on my ranger(selfwork)..took it to a garage...you wouldnt believe it...they hooked it up to puter..didnt get anything?
im getting fire to all cylinders..they say...so now i guess...and they guess...lol..its a fuel problem...so im going to take the injectors out and look em over...anybody else with ideas? as its getting colder climate here in Maine..and i dont have much faith left!
thanks again for all of your help people!
Cory
had cat looked over...notta...had fuel injectors inspected/cleaned...i guess they were UGLY..so they cleaned em..put em back in...its running good they say..ill keep ya posted..by the way...i took my codes..TESTLIGHT..worked great..got code 41...and 63...but mech didnt replace either one..so im planning a new exhaust...clearing codes...go from there..thanks for the help gentleman!!
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