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i would reccomend against switching the gears to taller ones... you can buy alot of fuel with the money you would spend to put taller gears in, and if you ever do use your mule to pull a real load, and you'll be surprised, it will happen, you will be glad on that day that you left those shorter gears in because it will tow so much better, and the shorter gears help save wear and tear on the drivetrain... jmo though... it's your mule..!
Have 2000 F350 CC dually 2WD w/71k ... will travel... to find ROTORS
Hello David,
We may have similar trucks... mine is 2WD, but you did not say (2WD/4WD). I have a rotor warping problem too and been looking for better rotors. The 2WD dually front hubs have integral hub and rotors... i.e. you can not buy the rotors separate (I have learned). The Ford OEM rotors are $500/pair (w/ hub). Slotted/drilled rotors are hard to find for this model. I recently found some Brembo slotted/drilled rotors (w/Hub) for $217/pair w/shipping item# pr17440-BSR-f359902 from: http://www.autoaccessorystore.com/ho...&aftermarket=1.
Seems too cheap and I am wondering if anyone has an opinion.
Also, I just put in a Walker BTM (muffler) to reduce back pressure and lower EGTs... not too much louder than stock (at idle outside the truck)... no real additional cabin noise at cruise speed for $54 (Blackclouddiesel.com) + 3 clamps + 18" piece of 3.5" NAPA pipe + ONE FULL weekend of work screwing with the exhaust hangers etc.
I can email the excel spread sheet with the simple formula.
cost for 3.50 gears = $1700
mileage increase 3mpg
cost per gallon $3.00
present mileage per gallon = 15
cost per mile = $0.200
saving per mile = $0.033
miles to travel to break even = 51000
alright alright - I got it loud and clear!! Thanks for the help. DVW
Just for the record, not all of us are in the "don't do it" camp. I don't think that the PSD will have the slightest problem pulling through 3.50 gears. Might take a little more effort getting on speed, but once there it will cruise at a lower RPM and that always equates to better milage with a diesel. Not only that, but every single one of us with a PSD and a SRW truck "only" have 3.73 gears....and you don't see anybody having any problems pulling the load. I think 3 MPG probably is overly optimistic, but it would pay for itself eventually.
Another option would be an external overdrive unit. That way you keep your pulling gears if you need them, and have your overdriven freeway gear too.
Any quick fixes for the fuel cackle - is this something a good Powerstroke mechanic could hear and offer a solution to? I doubt just adding a fuel additive would be the 100% solution.
Thanks again for all the help to a newbie sparkless dude.
When I bought my truck last year I was learning things too. Fuel cackle was one of the issues that I was dealing with. Rather than type it all in again here's the thread that I started about it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=260173
What do you plan on using your truck for? It would help us to know on whether to counsil you to change gears or not.
Again, Thanks for all the effort - Lot of passion here for the compression engine.
The truck is a dually and I bought it for primarily hauling around the dog and a bunch of training equipment. That adds up to about 500-750lbs.
We have a 26 tongue trailer I use probably 10-12X a year.
And the remainder is just hauling to work - It's nice being one of the larger chunks of steel on the road.
I was looking to squeeze a few MPG since it is 85% highway unloaded driving. I know I know I shouldave just bought a gas guzzler.
But I have a few friends with Hemi's, V-10 and triton and they all have had issue beyond 12-14mpg unloaded. Then with 750lbs they labor like a 6.
So I looked for a 250PSD and they're not for sale!
But there were a few 350's and the nicest one was a dually. And no one wants a stick - from where I'm from anyway! everyone has the Auto.
So, I have the 4.11 and stock size tires. I don't like to go too far on tire size and change steering and handling and obviously Ford put these tires on it for a reason.
Looking at options. Like I said I have a 6 speed and once the inlet and outlet are opened up and breathing and there are some gauges Im looking to maximize the avaliable performance and fuel mileage. (if it is possible and actual).
When I bought my truck last year I was learning things too. Fuel cackle was one of the issues that I was dealing with. Rather than type it all in again here's the thread that I started about it.
How did your mods work?
What's all the work on these gas lines? My 350 is a 2000 - definately has strong cackle.
Bringing it to a well respected PSD service company - Precision Diesel on Long Island. We'll see what they say.
What's all the work on these gas lines? My 350 is a 2000 - definately has strong cackle.
Bringing it to a well respected PSD service company - Precision Diesel on Long Island. We'll see what they say.
- David
I'm satisified with how it works. I've towed the trailer on several trips, no loss of power. Glass smooth idle. And the cackle is for the most part eliminated. The final touch was the introduction of Bio-diesel into the fuel. It completly eliminated any leftover traces of cackle. If you feel like diving into something like this it's basic plumbing. I would be interested in hearing what Precision diesel has to say as well.
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