Yet another crazy question. does anyone know if there are aftermarket billet or 4340 forged steel crank? i know that the v10 comes with a forged steel crank (C38 modified) but i don't know how much power it can hold. thanks,

UUranium

 

from what I've read here and a few other places, the crank will take much more power than the rods will. Fortunately the 5.4 rods will work. But I have never seen a crank for the V10 anywhere. I would guess cryo treatment would be the best for strengthening the FoMoCo crank with accessory rods/pistons. A good harmonic dampener couldn't hurt with more power either.

 

Thanks ken. i did some more reading last night and found read some more about the crank and block and am very surprised at their strength (wouln't expect that from a factory engine). but i am wondering just how big a deal the counterbalance shaft is and if they make an improved one? thanks,

UUranium

 

Never heard of an improved balancer, or crank for that matter.

I've read in places that the front accessory drive is a problem with the V10/5.4L cranks because of the stress. It appears that the nose of the crank is too small...

So, with that little problem taken care of somehow, that crank should hold together unless your going with a HUGE blower AND nitrous

 

actually i am looking nto running a twin turbo setup. no stress on the front of the crank from the blower, and love the sound of a turbo. i have done some demos on desktop dyno, and while i don't really tust it when it comes to playing with forced induction, it should be a pretty healtyh jump in power. i am just wondering how high you can rev one of these V10's with that counterbalancer? thanks,

UUranium

 

I've seen a twin turbo V10 pic, and yes the crank snout is the weakest link for vortech-type superchargers. As far as the in-head balance shaft, I would guess different weight rods/pistons would affect it.

 

THAT'S what it was about - the supercharger could take too much power and the crank breaks. But someone designed a bearing that would support the snout and alleviate the problem.

And yeah, the balance shaft would have to be "balanced" for the different weight rods/pistons (if any). A good machinst can do it - the guy who helped me build my FE 390 used to balance Japanese 4 and 6 cylinder motors that used balance shafts. He was/is the best machinist I ever met, taught my lots of stuff when I used to stop in while driving my truck route (long ago and far away).

 

How high can you rev a balance shaft?

Don't know - get one from a junkyard and spin it until it breaks

Fred, I just looked at a parts illustration, and it appears the balancer shaft is spinning TWICE as fast as the crankshaft? (gear looks to be half the size of the crank gear).

 

I have a lot of turbo experiance and zero belt drive Blower except the military units.

As far as I know there are zero aftermarket internals for the V10... well that isn't entirely true, several companies will re do your cam (you must give them the specs as they have no R&D on this motor that I can find), Many can make any pistion you can describe and there should be an ok selection of correct dimension rods but you might be in a trick trying to get some of them back down to factory weight.

If I was going for close to best Hp gains based on a twin turbo set up I would:

1.) blue print the bottom end perfectly and consider cryo or custom rods but stay at factory weights so as not to screw with the balance shaft math.

2.) buy new .020 over set of Ford's pistons (very good hyperutetic already) and have hyprformance coatings do their ceramic top and slippery skirting (Ford already has the skirting solid film coated, but I know and trust HPCs stuff and it is not very costly)

3.) send those pistons to TotalSeal for the magic they do with perfectly matched rings and the gapless second ring sets. (careful here as the mechanical compression goes way up) I run TotalSeal in my drag bikes

4.) have my precision machine shop buddy perfectly match each piston during the overbore hone job on the block.

5.) Have the heads balance ported...NO not a flow job realy just clean up the casting flaws and polish each combustion chamber be exact same CCs

6.) I would perfectly mate the intake and exhaust ports but not even consider screwing with flow or porting on the thermo plastic intake manifold. I probably would do something stupid while it is off and plumb in hidden NOS foggers underneath

7.) The fabrication for the exhaust perches of each turbo will be a pain but I think there is plenty of room to run custom manifolds forward in front of the motor and have both turbines dump straight down and back. Gonna need electric fans

8.) I need the largest Throttle body and maybe even have it opened up a few more MM. Same with a over sized MAF.

9.) step up two sizes on the injectors and add a higher volume (same PSI) fuel pump.

10.) after computing compression ratio I think I would probably just add a second head gasket to lower in a little more.

11.) Now for all the fun and Dyno time cuz we have a lot of adjustment for waste gate dump, fuel curve and ignition mapping to do.

Now off to find some one to bullet proof a 5R110 because Brian at BTS only does 4R100s

I think for under $10,000 I can get her into the 550HP and 680 Ftlbs within a 2250 to 6500 RPM band.

 

a bullit proof 5r110 is one the way and the prototype is right now in my truck. i'll keep every one up to date.
if you want more info email me and i'll give you pat's numbers.

 

How would those Cat-Back turbo systems work on the V10s? I would think that they would be pretty efficient since everyone likes them for their V6 and V8s. You would have that much more exhaust being fed into the turbo with 10 burning. Since STS doesn't make one for the V10, one would have to be custom made but I would think that would be alot less fabrication to do than to do it the way you want to do it, UUranium, although it probably wont yield as high of results as ur proposal.

 

great replies form everyone. thanks for all the info. as per the turbo setup i am aiming at around 800 or more if i can get it. actually horspower really doesn't mean much to me(seeing how it is just a function of torque and time and torque is just a function of force and distance). i am really aiming for a motor that has around 500ft/lbs from 2000 up. as far as the pistons and rods go i am pretty sure that anything that fits a 5.4 will work. i am not for sure on this because i heard somewhere that the stock rods differ a lot between the v8 and v10, but hey if i wanted to keep them light so as to stay near stock specs(does anyone know the wieght of a stock rod?)i could always get some titanium rods made

UUranium

 

I love this guy!

Need a sponsor? I can scratch up maybe $10, will that help ???

 

damn just got here and gettin popular already lol . thanks for the offer krewat. this project is gonna be one that is a lot more research and then just one big engine build. i am a mechanical engineering student at A&M, and let me just say that the tuition takes away all the fun of being in college. i'm just sad that i don't have enough to get me into a pickup . i almost had a ranger and was thinking how much fun it would be to stuff the v10 in it and make fun of all the diesel guys when i out pulled them in a sub 1/2 ton truck (major mods to the frame etc. etc. but still funny in all respects)

 

Hmm... '74 F100 with a V10 twin-turbo... heck, I woulda stuck one in my '74 highboy if the cab wasn't swiss cheese (see my sig).