When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
They seem good from their webpage, but in reality, that says nothing. They do have full lifetime warranty, which is a really big plus. The part about no needle bearings makes me scratch my head though... and ponder long deep thoughts about the field of force surronding the inner qi of those joints... er, sorry...
I know others will say "CTM's are better", but since those are new and relatively unproven no one can say for sure...yet
Yeah as long as one greases those after evry play day they would be just as good as the ctm's i would think but i have not a clue on what alloy the ctms use.
I know nothing about them personally but there's a few pretty long threads on Pirate about them more or less indicating that they've had a lot of problems in the past and that they seem to have fixed them. But I say if you're gonna shell out the $$ why not just go with CTM's since they're proven.
Just looked it up and it's about $50 difference between CTM's and these joints. Just comparing them visually, these are really built a lot like a Spicer joint, only no internal grease channels and a stronger material. CTM's have a lot more meat between the legs (huh huh huh . . . you said meat between the legs) which I would think should make them stronger.
Since they are both a 4340chromoly steel, their yield strenght is going to be the same (that is point of deformation), granted the ctm's have a bit more meat around the legs, but with a lifetime warranty on the longfield's why spend the extra 100 bucks anyway, espically when a hub or d-shaft u-joint will probably gernade before the axle joints will anyway.
but with a lifetime warranty on the longfield's why spend the extra 100 bucks anyway
Because when a u-joint goes there's a really good chance it's gonna take a stub with it. At $300 a piece I'd rather not watch my stubs grenade just so I can save a couple bucks on a u-joint . . . not to mention the inner shafts. Remember, it's not always about the part itself but rather what it's going to take out in the process.
Since they are both a 4340chromoly steel, their yield strenght is going to be the same (that is point of deformation)
That is only true if the designs are identicle, which they are not. Ctm's have more beef in the body, and have the proven track record where these do not. The prices between the two aren't that different, it would only make sense to go with the ctms.
Anyone have a link to the ctm's by chance, just curious as i'd to see the shape difference between the two. But yeah you are right about the strenght difference (i never really disagreed with you there ), its just for those of us not running 44's and big power , thats an extra hundred bucks that could go in the motor of something, and besides if one isn't using a 4340 alloy stub/inner axle the ears are goin to bust before the u-joint does.