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Thanks Deezel. Yeah the difference in strenght is due more to the shape other than the added material, the reason this is is that curved (or in this cased an angled surface compared to a 90* joint or whatever you want to call it) surfaces spread out loads better than a 90" angle, and a 90* angle puts all the load at one point causing a higher chance of failure, thats why you want welds to be either concave verses flat.
But then again i guess if you are needing a set of ctm's you probably have a reason and some cash lying around to buy em .
That's the OX u-joint and no, they're not really any good. I don't remember what they're made of (what they "claim" to be made of) but a lot of people have snapped them. There's a real flaw in their bushing design that causes it to wear and then bind. Since the joint is hollow, unlike CTM, it just blows the side out around the cap. Seeing as how they're only $20 less than a CTM but only have a 1 year warranty which, btw, is void if you run tires larger than 35's I'd say they probably make nice paperweights but that's about it.
Mustang, you can't even run these joints (Longfields included) in a regular stub due to the full circle clip design, you'll spit a cap. They are designed for chromoly axle shafts that are shaved for a full circle clip.
Btw, a blown u-joint is what caused the complete anihilation of Pro's front axle last winter (prior to CTM's) including inner and outer shafts, spindle, and hub. IMO, it's not the kind of damage worth saving $100.
Btw, a blown u-joint is what caused the complete anihilation of Pro's front axle last winter (prior to CTM's) including inner and outer shafts, spindle, and hub. IMO, it's not the kind of damage worth saving $100.
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