converting to roller cam?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 347
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From: charlotte, nc
converting to roller cam?
Do people even do this anymore? I was just wondering how practical it is. I bought a 71 and the original engine has been out for several years. I don't think it will be able to be dropped in as-is judging by what I have found (blown out freeze plugs). Block could very well be junk.
My goal was a decent running small block, no drag racing, stump pulling, or trailer towing. Of course, money is a factor. Not wanting to cheap out, or break the bank.
I have been thinking about my options, finding a running motor, trying to rebuild the original 302, rebuild a 289 I have laying around, or a crate motor. I originally planned on a 302 and a 4V carb. Lately been thinking about EFI. I have read several articles (online & magazines) about adding the Mustang EFI to older motors. Results "seem" decent. But it seems like to get the most out of the EFI (torque & mpg), a roller cam is required. If adding a roller cam to an older block, is it any better or cheaper than just starting with the HO long block? Seems like it wouldn't be.
Practical advice appreciated.
My goal was a decent running small block, no drag racing, stump pulling, or trailer towing. Of course, money is a factor. Not wanting to cheap out, or break the bank.
I have been thinking about my options, finding a running motor, trying to rebuild the original 302, rebuild a 289 I have laying around, or a crate motor. I originally planned on a 302 and a 4V carb. Lately been thinking about EFI. I have read several articles (online & magazines) about adding the Mustang EFI to older motors. Results "seem" decent. But it seems like to get the most out of the EFI (torque & mpg), a roller cam is required. If adding a roller cam to an older block, is it any better or cheaper than just starting with the HO long block? Seems like it wouldn't be.
Practical advice appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Far cheaper to start with a roller block. Don't need an HO for that. All the late 80's to the end of production in 2001 5.0's were roller blocks. 351's were starting in 94. Converting a non roller block will set you back around $500 ( minimum)
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
It depends on how you do it. If you buy all aftermarket roller stuff with tiebar lifters it gets pretty pricey in a hurry. If you do some scrounging (like on Ebay, etc.) you can get stock Ford late model roller lifters, dogbones and spider and a retrofit kit to install it in a non-roller block. Since you need to have the lifters sit further down in the bore, a special smaller base-circle cam is required, and I believe the choices of grinds are still pretty limited. With roller cams, you can re-use used lifters on a new cam so you might save some bucks with used parts. If you're lucky, you might come in within a few hundred bucks or so. Check out these threads on the subject:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=121595
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=216686
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=121595
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=216686
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Even with scrouging for used parts, you're still facing the cost of the reduced base cam ( $300+), & new custom pushrods ($100) No matter which route you choose, it's not worth the cost. The other route uses Crane's link bar lifters($400+) for this and std base cams ($100+) And possibly custom pushrods as well. There's just no "cheap" way out of this, unless someone gives you all the parts.
