Fram filter
My recommendation to all that have a Ford with this type of air filter is to run an additonal bead of glue or caulk around the end ring. I'm not sure that this is not a design flaw because as the pressure from a dirty filter will build on the ring causing it to possibly come loose. This filter has less than 15,000 miles on it. My type of driving is hiway and construction/ oil field /ranch environments. I would strongly suggest that you keep an eye on your air filter.

holy crap.
i posted the same thing a few months back. i was told i was nuts and the only one. i went camping and found this out on the return home. i just about wet myself. the amount of dirt was scary and the the uoa showed 92 ppm of silicon since then it has dropped to 5 ppm with a new filter.
also there was anohter member here that had the same thing. i think it was titled "check your fram air filter" so at least 3 of us
I have heard many complaints, usually dealing with oil filters. I talked to a diesel mechanic a while back. Said he has this kind of Fram problems alot. Said he had a trucker call him on the phone, he had changed his oil and when he got down the road a few miles he lost oil pressure. The mechanic asked if he used Fram filters, he said yes. The mechanic told him to change the new ones to something else, problem solved.
I quit using Fram in 1980, I had a 65 Chevelle with the canister type oil filter that you put a cartridge in. I put in a Fram and when I went to change it later I found it flattened out on one side, it looked like I had stepped on it before installing it.
That would lead to a engine's normal lifetime injestion of dust in just a few days or weeks.
I would be one unhappy camper.
edit: this is something many more folks should see. It's a shame those who don't frequent the Oil and Lube forum will likely never see it.
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Just pay a little now and a lot later,ues Fram filters.JMO
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
By the end of the week, you'll see 10 people stating: "What's the big deal? that never happened to me? Show me where this is Fram's fault?! I need much more than this to convince me, no way. I've used Fram filters since LBJ was in the White House, I'm not switching...Fram, all the way, orange crush rules... You know those replies are on their way!! Ed
They make the filters the same no mater Ford, Mopar or Chevy so.....
Here is a link to the Fram page: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#fram
Here is the bad list....Ouch (do read to the end, there is good news).
Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
Penzoil
This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.
Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...
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Now for the good news, he sort of liked this one.
Fram Tough Guard
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with a clever integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. I personally do not use this filter, but the design didn't have enough bad qualities to cause me to tell others to avoid it.
Pay me now or pay me later......










