Hey guys, it's been awhile but I have a qeustion about a AIC that is a do it yourself project that was on the www.northtexaspowerstrokes.com web site. Does anyone know if this a suitable AIC for a 2001 which already has the controller built in for cold morning start-ups. What I am looking at doing is leaving the manufacture installed unit alone and adding this home made controller for when I exit the vehicle and keep the enigine from wet stacking, need extra power from the truck to run additional components or what have you. Has anyone put one of these device on your truck that already had the cold start built in from the factory and how did they work together if at all. I want to install the device, set the level of the potentiometer and wire it to one of the four lighted toggles I have installed so that I can simply flip the switch and truck come up to idle. This is in hopes of not messing up the factory unit so on cold mornings I can start the truck with my remote start and the factory unit bring the engine to the desired idle speed for warm up? Sorry for all the rambling, just want it to be right and not tear something up! I'll post pics as I go for other interested parties. Thanks for the help

Platinum01
2001 Powerstoke

 

They will work fine together. The home made AIC adjusts the signal to the throttle pedal, and the factory high idle is a PCM function.

 

Here is a link to a post that contains a set of idle controller instructions. All the links im my post in that thread are long dead, so no pictures. Sorry.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...&highlight=aic

 

Thanks for all the help! One last question for the electronic guru's. How does using a lighted rocker switch effect the way I tie it into the relays and power source?

Thanks once again!
Platinum01

 

it doesn't. no different than any other switch. OK, it is different in that it has a light.

 

I just installed this in my truck, and the 2K pot did not work. What did work was a 10K pot. All it did was go from idle to WOT with NO adjustment three potentiometers later and it works. One thing that I noticed was a completly different set up than the one on the truck they show in thier pics, I'm pretty sure that the truck in pictures is gas powered as my IVS and TPS sensors are nothing like the ones shown, also both of my IVS wires were a different color. If your IVS wires are a different color like mine are, then you want to hook the hot wire (with key in run position) to posts 3 & 4 of the IVS relay and the other wire (not hot) to post 5 on the relay.
This may save some time as well, as the relays shown are not easily found and any auto style relay will work, but if you have never chased a relay then the numbers they give will not match up with many commonly found relays.

The cross match to the relay they used;
1=86 power (activates relay)
2=85 ground
3=30 common(always hot)
4=87a normally closed (when activated normally open)
5=87 normally open (when activated normally closed)

As far as a lighted switch, it may cause the brake light to stay on due to the resistance of the light in the switch. Just use a non-lighted switch and save a few bucks on resistors and overkill switches.