Fat,

No.

RMF

 

Hows this?........attach the metal plate however you want, then, the hollow areas that you want filled, drill small holes from the inside big enough to spray with expandable foam.
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XFM...

 

That is right. Mine was not flat to the original firewall. To get the ends to lay into the corners, It did have a slight arch to it. I would estimate that the middle of the panel has about 3/8" from the fire wall and the ends were 1/8". Jag

 

Xfordman,

My luck in the past with expandable foam - I'd end up with the firewall bulging out about 9 inchs in the center and trying suck the front cab corners into the engine bay. Not pretty.

Going to have to give this one a lot thought.

I'm not crazy about cutting out the original firewall and building a brace affair just to keep the thinness (is that a real word?) of the firewall for the mounting of the hanging pedal assy. Especially since I'll be cutting out the entire dash to put in the custom one that one my buddies here is selling me. I'm a little afraid of my cab crumbling into a heap. Can't weld braces all over heck's half acre cause I need to get in under where the dash goes to weld her in...

So at this point I'm leaning towards filling all the dead space with thin plywood glued in place with those new fancy-schmancy adhesives except in the genereal area where the hanging pedal assy will mount. Trace the outline of the mount onto the new smooth firewall and cutting it away so the master cylinder mounts tight to the original firewall (per Cuzin John). I think if I did a good job on this cut, it can be done without the end result looking too "cootie bob". I'll be using 18 gauge and I think the glueing of the smooth panel to the stiffening ribs will really help solidify the whole shebang. I don't want her waving in a light breeze....

So at this point, that's where I'm heading. I appreciate all the input thus far and if anyone has any other ideas toss them in here. I don't think this topic has ever really been discussed in any detail before. I know I'm learning a lot, I'm sure a few others are too.

And Cuzin John - It's not the length of the stroke, it's...........

Thanks guys,

 

RMF....your probably right about that foam idea. I had a bathtub that had a little flex in the bottom when you took a shower, so I sprayed under it, the next morning the tub had a big hump in it and water wouldn't drain out. Anyway, on my '53, the firewall was dreadful, so I welded up all the holes, ground them down and painted it same color as the body. It's clean and simple, looks good to me.
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XFM....

 

Have you thought about a sheet of poly? I guess plywood will work, but if moisture ever got to it, it might be more of a chore to fix than what you saved putting it in.

 

I once saw a movie where a semi-translucent sheet of plastic had been installed on a jeep's firewall with no hood. When the lights were turned on the cool teal-colored lights came on behind the firewall cover.
This would be cool to lift your hood and and flip a switch to show off your engine. Now, what plastic would hold up to the engine heat, I don't know. Just typing out loud here Fergi. Not trying to change your mind. Jag