Upfitter Switch Problems
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"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
Upfitter Switch Problems
Went to wire a set of driving lights via the upfitter switches today, and no joy. Found the upfitter switch leads behind the fuse box, schematic & data says orange/blue wire is upfitter switch #4. Wired this via the feedthru wire to the lamps. However, no 12 volts from the orange/blue wire. I listened for the relays, all four switches drive relays behind the glove compartment, I can hear them ok. The #5 fuse has 12 volts to it, and the fuse is good. I cut the heat shrunk end off another switch lead, and no 12 volts there with switch on either. Anyone have any ideas before I tear this thing apart??
Oh yeah, beside the 4 switch leads and the 4 feed thru leads, (red, blue, black, and white), there are several other wire ends with heat shrink in the same bundle. Anyone know what they are for?
Oh yeah, beside the 4 switch leads and the 4 feed thru leads, (red, blue, black, and white), there are several other wire ends with heat shrink in the same bundle. Anyone know what they are for?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 7
From: Burnsville, MN
There is a "Special Vehicle Engineering" (SVE) Bulletin dated Dec 13, 2004 complete with schematics and block diagrams that I pulled from one of these forums before. I would guess you could find it by searching for "Upfitter Switches"
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"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
Thanks for the reply, I have the info and schematics. Just wondered if anyone had some insight such as "OH, Ford had a bunch of trucks where plug #7 didn't get seated correctly....." or some such. Not looking forward to tracing under the dash!
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 98
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From: indian rocks beach fl
Did you wire it to your highbeam hot side to come on with the highs only?? If you did, there are two fuses for the highbeam lights, the constant on and the quick flash. You may of burned the other fuse. Check the manual. I learned this from experience when installing my driving lights. None of the upfitter switches are not hot with the key on??? The upfitters are not a constant 12Volt. I used switch one because it is 30 amp, may be better load for the PIAA's I installed. Just some green light thinking
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 98
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From: indian rocks beach fl
Exactly, just my way of asking politely...sometimes the very obvious is the hardest to see and didn't want to make anyone feel bad. Been there done that many times!
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"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
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From: Mifflin, PA
Yes, key is on..... as stated before, I can hear each relay click as the upfitter switch is activated. What I don't have is 12 volts on the wire ends behind the fuse panel when the relays are activated. The led light in each switch works,
so I am suspecting a disconnected connector or something strange like wrong/defective relays, etc. Will tear into it tomorrow, and post what if anything I find.
so I am suspecting a disconnected connector or something strange like wrong/defective relays, etc. Will tear into it tomorrow, and post what if anything I find.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 5
From: NJ
Are you testing the wires with a test light/dvom or are you just connecting them to your new lights? The entire upfitter harness (supply end) is a single plug into the back of the fuse panel so it can't be that. Are you sure that your new lights are working correctly?
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"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
Many thanks to Captchas ... for the TSB's and pics ....
Just finished buttoning up the dash. Finally located the real Upfitter wires - they were tucked up in the back of the fuse panel. When I twisted the panel around to get pictures of the cut wires, I discovered them. Actually marked upfitter switches. So I now have 16 unused wires instead of 12. I also noticed in the Q-108 SVE bulletin on pg 8 there is an additional "hot in run" circuit available.
On edit: If yu're looking for the upfitter wires, please note that there is an orange/Grey? wire in the other bundle that looks at first glance like orange/blue. Since I wanted switch 4 for my lights, I was looking intently for orange/blue, and mistook the other wire. Had the upfitter wires not been stuck up inside the fuse panel harness, I probably would have recognized the difference quickly. Oh well, combination of circumstances and my dumb .....
Ignition Hot-in-RUN
Circuit no. 294 Wire Color: White / Lt. Blue
• A fused 10 amp circuit.
• Found: Blunt-cut & taped, on the harness behind the Diagnostic Link Connector.
Again, thanks for the replys
Just finished buttoning up the dash. Finally located the real Upfitter wires - they were tucked up in the back of the fuse panel. When I twisted the panel around to get pictures of the cut wires, I discovered them. Actually marked upfitter switches. So I now have 16 unused wires instead of 12. I also noticed in the Q-108 SVE bulletin on pg 8 there is an additional "hot in run" circuit available.
On edit: If yu're looking for the upfitter wires, please note that there is an orange/Grey? wire in the other bundle that looks at first glance like orange/blue. Since I wanted switch 4 for my lights, I was looking intently for orange/blue, and mistook the other wire. Had the upfitter wires not been stuck up inside the fuse panel harness, I probably would have recognized the difference quickly. Oh well, combination of circumstances and my dumb .....
Ignition Hot-in-RUN
Circuit no. 294 Wire Color: White / Lt. Blue
• A fused 10 amp circuit.
• Found: Blunt-cut & taped, on the harness behind the Diagnostic Link Connector.
Again, thanks for the replys
Last edited by alchymist; Nov 6, 2005 at 09:04 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 140
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From: wallingford, ct
Originally Posted by alchymist
Yes, key is on..... as stated before, I can hear each relay click as the upfitter switch is activated. What I don't have is 12 volts on the wire ends behind the fuse panel when the relays are activated. The led light in each switch works,
so I am suspecting a disconnected connector or something strange like wrong/defective relays, etc. Will tear into it tomorrow, and post what if anything I find.
so I am suspecting a disconnected connector or something strange like wrong/defective relays, etc. Will tear into it tomorrow, and post what if anything I find.
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Good points all.
I remember I could not start a brand new 1969 Ford Fairlaine and looked in the owners manual and the first question was .... Are you out of gas .... Oooopps !
Anyhow,
1 - The key must be in the ON position for the Uplifter switches to provide power.
2 - From left to right the first 2 switched provide 30 amps and the second 2 provide less amps 10 I think.
3 - And of course chek the fuse box
You also might use a voltage probe to make sure you hit the right hot wire.
I remember I could not start a brand new 1969 Ford Fairlaine and looked in the owners manual and the first question was .... Are you out of gas .... Oooopps !
Anyhow,
1 - The key must be in the ON position for the Uplifter switches to provide power.
2 - From left to right the first 2 switched provide 30 amps and the second 2 provide less amps 10 I think.
3 - And of course chek the fuse box
You also might use a voltage probe to make sure you hit the right hot wire.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
Thanks to all your answers here, it took me about 30 minutes to open the truck, find wires,splice in the hot lead to my fogs (using solder), tape connections and close up the truck. They work great. Thanks guys and thanks Ford for installing those wires thru the firewall!! Really makes it easy!!
Bud Pytko
'05 F250 PSD CC 4X4 LWB
Bud Pytko
'05 F250 PSD CC 4X4 LWB