Will it fit?
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Will it fit?
Tomorrow we're going to try to put the 390 and C6 back in my 68 F-250 Highboy.
My questions is: Can you put the engine in and then put the tranny up to it? Or do you have to put it after bolting it all together. We have the engine sitting in place and we are worried that there isn't enough room between the firewall and the pressure plate for the bellhousing to pass.
Any thoughts?
Peter
My questions is: Can you put the engine in and then put the tranny up to it? Or do you have to put it after bolting it all together. We have the engine sitting in place and we are worried that there isn't enough room between the firewall and the pressure plate for the bellhousing to pass.
Any thoughts?
Peter
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Thanks for the help. We dropped the engine in first and then jacked the tranny into place and everything worked fine - except the header on the passenger side. Looks like we'll have to raise the engine back up a little to slide the header in from the bottom and we should have everything in.
Peter
Peter
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From: Central Oregon
Originally Posted by workingdog
Tomorrow we're going to try to put the 390 and C6 back in my 68 F-250 Highboy.
My questions is: Can you put the engine in and then put the tranny up to it? Or do you have to put it after bolting it all together. We have the engine sitting in place and we are worried that there isn't enough room between the firewall and the pressure plate for the bellhousing to pass.
Any thoughts?
Peter
My questions is: Can you put the engine in and then put the tranny up to it? Or do you have to put it after bolting it all together. We have the engine sitting in place and we are worried that there isn't enough room between the firewall and the pressure plate for the bellhousing to pass.
Any thoughts?
Peter
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 278
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So I just want to confirm.
I have a C-6 in my garage that I had planned on rebuilding in the next couple weeks.
I was going to try to install probably over Christmas week.
My initial goal was to pull motor and tranny to swap the tranny because that is how I have always done it.
My truck is a 1970 F-250 2 wheel drive. I am running headers with dual exhaust.
I shouldn't have many issues with pulling the tranny from below without touching the motor? I know I will have to disconnect the exhaust from the header flanges.
Should I strap the front of the motor down to keep stress off the motor mounts?
Just trying to confirm this before I start on the project.
Any help would be great.
Thanks, Ken
I have a C-6 in my garage that I had planned on rebuilding in the next couple weeks.
I was going to try to install probably over Christmas week.
My initial goal was to pull motor and tranny to swap the tranny because that is how I have always done it.
My truck is a 1970 F-250 2 wheel drive. I am running headers with dual exhaust.
I shouldn't have many issues with pulling the tranny from below without touching the motor? I know I will have to disconnect the exhaust from the header flanges.
Should I strap the front of the motor down to keep stress off the motor mounts?
Just trying to confirm this before I start on the project.
Any help would be great.
Thanks, Ken
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From: Coal country
Ken:
You don't have to pull the motor, and you don't need to strap it down. It will sit fine there all by itself. It may tilt a bit to the rear, but that's OK too. You should probably disconnect the accelerator linkage to keep it from binding, but that's all. The radiator hoses will help hold it in place.
The only advantage to pulling the motor is to make it easier to mate the transmission to the engine.
But, this can be a problem so BE CAREFUL.
The issue is that the torque converter can seem like it is fully seated when it is not. The transmission will stay about 1/4 inch away from the block, and the temptation is to draw it up with the bolts.
Well, that cracks the transmission case, and really makes for a really bad day.
To prevent this, make sure you can push the case up against the block manually before torquing the bolts down. When I do this, I seat the torque converter in the transmission, and mount them together.
I prefer to remove just the transmission, even though I do not have a good transmission jack.
You may also find it easier to remove the secondary crossmember just under the transmission. I did, and it makes life a LOT simpler. I didn't even have to remove the exhaust when I did that.
You don't have to pull the motor, and you don't need to strap it down. It will sit fine there all by itself. It may tilt a bit to the rear, but that's OK too. You should probably disconnect the accelerator linkage to keep it from binding, but that's all. The radiator hoses will help hold it in place.
The only advantage to pulling the motor is to make it easier to mate the transmission to the engine.
But, this can be a problem so BE CAREFUL.
The issue is that the torque converter can seem like it is fully seated when it is not. The transmission will stay about 1/4 inch away from the block, and the temptation is to draw it up with the bolts.
Well, that cracks the transmission case, and really makes for a really bad day.
To prevent this, make sure you can push the case up against the block manually before torquing the bolts down. When I do this, I seat the torque converter in the transmission, and mount them together.
I prefer to remove just the transmission, even though I do not have a good transmission jack.
You may also find it easier to remove the secondary crossmember just under the transmission. I did, and it makes life a LOT simpler. I didn't even have to remove the exhaust when I did that.
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Thanks for the support.
My exhaust may get in the way because it crosses over to the passenger side because of the saddle tank.
I have used my motorcycle jack as a tranny jack a few times in the past and will probably be able to use it here also.
I feel better about the project now.
Thanks for the help.
Ken
My exhaust may get in the way because it crosses over to the passenger side because of the saddle tank.
I have used my motorcycle jack as a tranny jack a few times in the past and will probably be able to use it here also.
I feel better about the project now.
Thanks for the help.
Ken
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,430
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From: NH
I pulled my tranny through the bottom. I also pulled the motor without removing the tranny. I did break the bell housing but got it welded and all fixed up.
Right now my truck has been sittign for about 3 years with motor in it but no tranny. Its even been pushed around the yard a few times and no problems that I can see.
Right now my truck has been sittign for about 3 years with motor in it but no tranny. Its even been pushed around the yard a few times and no problems that I can see.
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We ended up having a heck of a time getting the motor back in because of the headers. We had to pull it once to get the starter on and then we had to pull it three more times becuase of fit issues with the headers. The header on the passenger side could only be removed or put in place with motor about 5 inches up and 5 inches forward. It was a real pain in the butt.
Last edited by jowilker; Nov 9, 2005 at 05:59 AM.