replacing ball joints 79
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replacing ball joints 79
I have a 79 F-150 4x4 400 C6 that has bad ball joints. I have a manual but it doesn't explain how to replace them. Can someone give me a step by step on the job? I believe I have to pull my axle shafts and also wondered what tool is required to replace axle seals and where to get the tool.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: East Tenn.
I'm not sure about 4x4's but I had to replace my lower ball joint a while back. I had to take top one off to get to the bottom one.
I also had to get a special ball joint remover tool. Luckily our Auto Zone rented these out for $100.00 deposit and I got that back after I returned the tool.
Make sure and have a big cheater bar handy. :-)
I also had to get a special ball joint remover tool. Luckily our Auto Zone rented these out for $100.00 deposit and I got that back after I returned the tool.
Make sure and have a big cheater bar handy. :-)
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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I've just replaced the ball joints this week on my 1976 Ford 4x4 F150.
- Jack up front axle an place on jack stands.
- Remove front tire.
- Remove caliper and brake pads from rotor.
- Remove allen head screws from hub (locking hubs).
- Remove Cir Clip from axle in Hub "using cir clip pliers".
- Remove outer C shaped ring from inner hub assembly.
- Remove inner parts from hub.
- Remove the spindle nut with four prong spindle socket.
- Remove locking washer from spindle with a pick.
- Romove locking nut with four prong spindle socket (This nut has a small stud extending from the nut). This nut is what locks to the locking washer.
- Remove rotor and hub assembly. Wipe down spindle with shop towels.
- Remove the five nuts from the spindle.
- Remove the spindle from axle. (Use a 2x4 piece of lumber to prevent any damage to spindle and pound 2x4er with heavy hammer).
- Remove axle shaft.
- Remove tie rod end with tie rod end remover.
- Remove cotter pin and nuts from ball joints.
- Remove spindle housing.
- With the ball joints with the tool remove ball joints remover.
- Install ball joints with ball joint installer.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: South Central Boise
1975Ford, isn't there a special way to install the balljoints to align the spindles? Or are they made to be set at one position only and all you can adjust is toe in and out? I thought there was a method to install them corectly. Or does the ball joints come with instructions?
Postmaster
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The new ball joint should come with instruction, mine did. I was told by my alignment shop "if the camber was not off, I shouldn't have to replace the sleeve". The sleeve on my truck was in good shape and I left it in. The alignment shop just set the toe in, because, I wanted them to check the camber also.
If planning on replacing sleeve, you will need a special tool to remove sleeve. Sometimes this specialized tools brake the tabs on sleeve, and then you got to chisel the old sleeve out.
Note: Sometime the sleeve is offset, if some one else has replaced the sleeve for an alignment. (camber adjustment)
The ball joints have a cir clip which also must be removed prior to using ball joint remover tool.
Grease the upper ball joint before you install the axle shaft. Then use a grease zerk plug on the upper ball joint. Do not leave the grease fitting on the upper ball joint, use the plug. If you leave the grease fitting in the upper ball joint, it will hit the axle shaft u-joint and will not spin.
If planning on replacing sleeve, you will need a special tool to remove sleeve. Sometimes this specialized tools brake the tabs on sleeve, and then you got to chisel the old sleeve out.
Note: Sometime the sleeve is offset, if some one else has replaced the sleeve for an alignment. (camber adjustment)
The ball joints have a cir clip which also must be removed prior to using ball joint remover tool.
Grease the upper ball joint before you install the axle shaft. Then use a grease zerk plug on the upper ball joint. Do not leave the grease fitting on the upper ball joint, use the plug. If you leave the grease fitting in the upper ball joint, it will hit the axle shaft u-joint and will not spin.
Last edited by 1975Ford; Nov 15, 2005 at 05:23 PM.
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Postmaster
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When removing the axle shaft, from axle housing, try to lift the axle up to eliminate dirt contact within the axle housing. Clean out dirt from axle housing. Make sure the dirt does not get into the gear (ring and pinon) housing when cleaning axle housing. Clean out splines on axles shaft splines with a toothbrush prior to installation. Make sure no dirt get on splines or seal area on axle shaft.
Use a plastic bag to cover splines on axle shaft, this will help in keeping it free of sand and dirt.
Keep all part sand and dirt free on installation. This will ensure that all parts installed will last a long time. Replace all seals as mention on Post #5.
Use a plastic bag to cover splines on axle shaft, this will help in keeping it free of sand and dirt.
Keep all part sand and dirt free on installation. This will ensure that all parts installed will last a long time. Replace all seals as mention on Post #5.
Last edited by 1975Ford; Nov 16, 2005 at 08:40 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Hi 1975Ford.
Would you please expand on the meaning of:
Remove the spindle from axle. (Use a 2x4 piece of lumber to prevent any damage to spindle and pound 2x4er with heavy hammer).
What is exactly getting pounded on? The back of the spindle? How do you access the back of the spindle with a 2x4 and will it eventually fly off the end of the axle or just creep off blow by blow? Do you need to keep rotating the assembly to keep everything straight? Finally with all the pounding on the spindle, why would the axle not be pulled from the diff and come out as an assembly?
I am planning this job on my truck this spring and starting to collect all the parts/information needed to do the job with minimal injury/pain/damage!
Your explanations are the best I've seen on this site for this job.
Thanks, DEAN
Would you please expand on the meaning of:
Remove the spindle from axle. (Use a 2x4 piece of lumber to prevent any damage to spindle and pound 2x4er with heavy hammer).
What is exactly getting pounded on? The back of the spindle? How do you access the back of the spindle with a 2x4 and will it eventually fly off the end of the axle or just creep off blow by blow? Do you need to keep rotating the assembly to keep everything straight? Finally with all the pounding on the spindle, why would the axle not be pulled from the diff and come out as an assembly?
I am planning this job on my truck this spring and starting to collect all the parts/information needed to do the job with minimal injury/pain/damage!
Your explanations are the best I've seen on this site for this job.
Thanks, DEAN
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 328
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smack the top of the spindle..where the hub mounts, with the hammer/block of wood.
but, in all honesty, and dont take this wrong, but.....if u couldnt figure that part out...maybe you shouldnt be trying to change the ball joints.
its not an EASY job. and it CAN be done wrong. 1 of the mech that used to work here(real *******) thought he knew how to do them...
he screwed up the housing, and i had to tear it all back down about a week later, when the customer came back complaining.....
but, in all honesty, and dont take this wrong, but.....if u couldnt figure that part out...maybe you shouldnt be trying to change the ball joints.
its not an EASY job. and it CAN be done wrong. 1 of the mech that used to work here(real *******) thought he knew how to do them...
he screwed up the housing, and i had to tear it all back down about a week later, when the customer came back complaining.....
Postmaster
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Harfend, thanks.
Step 13. Remove the five nuts from the spindle.
14. Remove the spindle from axle. (Use a 2x4 piece of lumber to prevent any damage to spindle and pound 2x4er with heavy hammer).
After removing the rotor and hub assembly. The next comes the spindle.
Then, step 13 and then 14. Use the 2 x 4 piece of lumber and rest it against the front / middle of spindle. Do Not pound the axle shaft.
The pound the 2x4 with a heavy hammer. This will prevent damage to the spindle. Work your way around the spindle when pounding, this will prevent the spindle from jamming to one side or other. The axle shaft should remain on the axle. Remove only the spindle.
Note: Ziplock bags work great to keep things organized and free of dirt.
Step 13. Remove the five nuts from the spindle.
14. Remove the spindle from axle. (Use a 2x4 piece of lumber to prevent any damage to spindle and pound 2x4er with heavy hammer).
After removing the rotor and hub assembly. The next comes the spindle.
Then, step 13 and then 14. Use the 2 x 4 piece of lumber and rest it against the front / middle of spindle. Do Not pound the axle shaft.
The pound the 2x4 with a heavy hammer. This will prevent damage to the spindle. Work your way around the spindle when pounding, this will prevent the spindle from jamming to one side or other. The axle shaft should remain on the axle. Remove only the spindle.
Note: Ziplock bags work great to keep things organized and free of dirt.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 114
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From: Sunshine Coast
The sleeve isn't for camber adjustment. It puts proper preload on the ball joints. There is no camber adjustment on the solid axle Dana 44. If the preload isn't set right the joints will wear prematurely. I learned this the hard way when I was younger. The sleeve is adjusted until a certain amount of force is required to turn the steering knuckle. I can't remember the number of the top of my head.
Postmaster
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Some sleeves are offset for camber adjustment, this was the old way of doing camber adjustment at alignment shops. The Alignment shop I take my truck is an alignment shop run by the owner who has done alignments for over 40 plus years.
Make sense on the preload.
From what I've seen, usually the sleeve does not require replacing, just some cleaning.
Make sense on the preload.
From what I've seen, usually the sleeve does not require replacing, just some cleaning.
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