Good point, good tip, and probably what happened, because the problem resurfaced but w/out reblowing the fuses...

...of course, my fuel heater is now disconnected.

But anyway, the truck will not start. I'm convinced it is not getting any fuel, and that it is some kind of sensor/PCM/ICM issue. The tach didn't look like it was moving so I went ahead and replaced the CPS as a blind ($120) stab at fixing it but nothing. The tach is definitely moving now, however.

To recap.

Truck won't start.
Oil in HPOP reservoir
45 psi at schraeder valve on FPR when cranking
New CPS, tach definitely reading, say, 200 rpm or so
No CEL, no codes on Innova ODBII scanner (which appears to be functioning properly)
All fuses are good
WTS light working normally, GPR is turning on etc.

I wish I had access to a donor truck, if this keeps up I may try to purchase an ICM or PCM at a boneyard.

Any way to see if the ICM is firing the injectors w/ a voltmeter at the valve cover connector (or elsewhere)?

 

IDM injector driver module

i think i have heard it works. but along with that you gotta be careful. a lot of juice to fire those injectors. it would probably knock you on your butt.
i would try to put the positive lead into the injecor pin and then let go and just hold the ground wire onto some metal from your tester.

 

Isn't it in the 120 volt range?


I have a Fluke multimeter, will that read the output properly? Is the output to the injectors 120V-DC? Will that do, uh, bad things to my shiny Fluke multimeter?

There has got to be some way to determine if in fact the PCM and/or IDM (GA!) is attempting to open the injectors.

Because my hunch is that is not happening here.

If indeed the voltage is not there then I can narrow things down considerably.

 

It was the IDM on mine. You can get one on ebay for $300.00 (rebuilt) Works fine.

 

yes i am pretty sure thats what is is and the super duties are a little higher. if you know anyone that has a "FORD ENHANCED" scan tool you can perform a buzz test. which is the same thing. if you are worried about hurting your mulitmeter go to harbor freight and get you a cheapy for 5 bucks.

i see idms on ebay for 100-150 everyday!!!!!!

 

After the dealer said over 800 I thought I had found a deal at 300. Oh well.

 

oh that still is.

 

Thanks for the tip, but that ain't it.

Had Thanksgiving dinner at a neighbor's and took my IDM w/ me. Put it in his 97 PSD and it fired right up...




So who knows what it is. IPR? PCM? Wiring harness?

Next thing I need to do is figure a way to test the electrical side of things using a voltmeter at the valve covers (and upstream if necessary). If that ain't it then find a way to test the HPOP/IPR etc.


(I need to vent)

These damn things are too hard to troubleshoot. I bought a Ford shop manual, all that did was inform me I needed a $700 diagnostic computer to test anything. Every diagnostic in the manual involves either this thing or some other overly expensive doo-dad.





I'm probably not the avg. PSD owner. I have lots of diesel equipment and rarely use a mechanic (out of necessity due to remote location, but I am pretty mechanically inclined anyway). I have 2 backhoes (Ford 550, JD 410), a Cat track-loader (977k), an early F350/7.3 pickup, a 95 6.5 turbo chevy, a '96 IH 7500 w/ a DT466, and 2 Yanmar 7.5kw diesel generators. Nothing I have ever owned required the use of a $700 diagnostic computer to figure out what the **** was wrong with it. A handful of the various testing equipment listed in the manual amount to half what I paid for the damn truck.



I've never had to use a mechanic for anything but serious machine work (warped a head on the Ford backhoe this summer), and the backhoes and Cat are 20-30 years old and I've done lots of work on them, and lots of it related to no-start troubleshooting (water in fuel, bad fuel, old fuel, lift pumps, injector pumps, injectors, relays, glow plugs,)






(/vent)

I recognize the advantages to this motor, I sure if my DT466 had DI/elec. inj. it would probably be a lot more economical, but there has to be a way for me to troubleshoot this glitch w/out having to haul it to some ******* service tech at the dealer in podunk NM.



I feel better now. Check back in a week or two on this thread, surely I will have figured it out by then. )

 

yeah your fluke meter will handle it. just have it on the DC range the output to the injectors is 115VDC. if you have the wiring diagrams check to see if your getting power into the idm. the IDM relay should close as soon as you turn the key. if you have power getting into the unit and nothing on the output when cranking i would say your idm is dieing. check over your wiring harness that goes from the idm to the injectors real well the truck maybe shutting down to protect itself in an overload or short. look for burned pins, burned wire, when my truck ate a wiring harness i could pull the oil fill cap and smell burned insulation.

good luck!!

 

That's good info bareback, thanks.

The model Fluke I have only has one Volt setting, it is auto AC/DC.

I do have the wiring diagrams, I will locate the IDM relay.

Thanks again.

 

if its a fluke it will work makes it easy with the autoranging....

good luck on it any more ??? let me know

 

Okay.

Found the relay, it is getting power, and the relay is functioning/closing, but there is no power to the IDM.

I don't know which pin/connector on the IDM harness is the main power in, but I couldn't get a reading from any of the pins. Maybe the terminals on my tester aren't sharp enough to make contact, but it looked/felt like they were.

What I thought was interesting was that w/ the main fuse pulled (#9 I think) the relay clicked on/off/on/off rapidly.


Then I checked at the VC connector, the glow plugs are turning on, but no reading on any of the other pins w/ under start (cranking).


Summary:

Power to relay
Relay is closing
No power found at IDM
No power at Valve Cover Connector while cranking (except for GP voltage)



It would appear that my IDM works, but the ECM or whatever isn't firing it up/powering it on.

 

I couldnt agree more, my dad's 01 was doing the same thing and we were sure there was big trouble. We took it to a private repair shop where the owner is a certified genius and trained by ford on the PSD. He found it right off the bat.....one battery couldnt hold up under load and the pcm wasnt receiving enough power to operate properly. Once the new batteries were in it started fine.

 

Thanks for the reply but I'm fairly certain it is not the batteries, if only due to the intermittent nature.

After all, a bad battery will stay bad, no? No chance a batt w/ 8 volts one second will up and find 2 more volts and suddenly start it right up is there...

 

NMRancher, I'm a newbie on this forum, was reading all of your posts up to 11-30-05 and then nothing. I want to know if you finally got it fixed and if so, how, so as to keep for future reference, thanks for your reply in advance