Hey guys, I have some pretty big scratches in my rear window. I've heard its kind of a big deal to remove the window. Is that true? I'd like to replace it because it effects my night vision a little. Anyhow I've had that thing apart a million and one times I just haven't removed the glass from the door yet. Getting the glass off the regulator isn't a problem for me, I'm just unsure of the process from there.

The truck is an 88 with the defroster.

Thanks

Mike

 

I ran into a little issue with removal of the glass from the door itself. I had to tilt the glass through the weatherseals so they would clear. It was a real pain!

 

OK. Here we go...

1. get a saw horse with a blanket to hold the window when it is extended.
2. with the key in the tailgate or a helper, tilt the tailgate enough to clear the weather stripping in the topper, but enough so the position sensor allows the window to move up or down.
3. I also suggest that before you do anything else to remove the inspection plate on the inside of the tailgate so you can see the window rail.
When moving the rear window up, the rail should be visible and accessable.
4. Now on the rail you will see 4 rivets holding the windo in place with white plastic washers.
5. Take your drill and a 5/16 drill bit and carefully drill the top center out of the rivet. This will allow the rivet to let loose of the window. You can also grind these ends off also. Make sure to no destroy the black plastic holder with the metal washer in it.
Once the rivets are removed the window should slide right out.
6. for reinstallation you need to go to your hardware store and purchase about 8 plastic washers. These plastic washers will go in between the window and rail. You will also need to get (4) 1/4" x 1/2" bolts and nylon locking nuts. These will be used to replace the original rivets. Just make sure to secure the bolts, but not too tight; snug is fine.

If you have any problems, email me and I will send you my phone number and I will talk you through it. Once you do it you will find that it is very easy.

 

This is easily done by removing the bolt on the door which hold the corner glass. Bring the window halfway down and once the corner glass rail is slightly moved you can remove the window crank arm and the window should come out with no problem. Hope this helps.

 

It is not necessary to drill out the rivets, the slide rail will unbolt from the window. Dealing with the rivets is a bigger pain.

 

I've got the Bronco pretty much stripped so the inspection plate is removed. I will go out and check on it. As for the rivets I've had the window of the rails just haven't removed those two brackets that are attached to the glass. I'll have to look at it.

Thanks guys

Mike

 

Incorrect. Rear windows which have never been removed have rivets holding the window to the rail. Removing the rivets makes removing the window a 100% easier. Plus it only takes a few minutes.

 

The brackets are riveted to the window. If you do not remove them you will not be able to remove the window easiely from the tailgate.

 

Thanks. I'll get at it this weekend.

Mike

 

Couple of questions... Why the blanket and the sawhorse? The window need only needs to be about halfway up to drill out the rivets. The window can fully support itself even fully extended from the tailgate with the tailgate open. (I wouldn't recommend sitting on the window mind you but it will support itself).

The safety interlock switch that keeps the glass from moving with the tailgate open is in the driver's side latch. Open the tailgate, manually close BOTH cams of the driver's side latch (you will need to push them both at once or one will open the other as you close the opposite cam) and proceed to use either switch to run the window.

What are the plastic washers for? The nylon snap washers with the metal inserts should be all that are needed. The 1/4 bolts with ny-stop nuts will finish the job.

I only ask these questions because I've done a complete tailgate, regulator, and window replacement three times in as many years and I have yet to drag out a sawhorse or plastic washers. And, getting the window up or down by attmepting to partially close the tailgate is a recipe for disaster. Even if it works, the potential is there to run the window into the top and break it or the weight transfer as the window moves can shift the balance of the gate in your hands leading to possibly dropping it or shutting it on your hand.

Just a couple additional tips. Take 'em for what they are worth.

 

Yeah I usually just drop the tailgate and close the latches. Its good to know its just the drivers side. It'll save me a couple of trips around the tailgate in the future.

Thanks guys

Mike

 

[QUOTE=greystreak92]Couple of questions... Why the blanket and the sawhorse?
The saw horse and blanket can be used to help support a taigate where the side cable are either broken or rotted. That is it mainly.

The safety interlock switch that keeps the glass from moving with the tailgate open is in the driver's side latch. Open the tailgate, manually close BOTH cams of the driver's side latch (you will need to push them both at once or one will open the other as you close the opposite cam) and proceed to use either switch to run the window. - Yes this does work too.

What are the plastic washers for? The nylon snap washers with the metal inserts should be all that are needed. The 1/4 bolts with ny-stop nuts will finish the job. Sometimes the white nylon snap washers which are between the window and the metal rail break while your are drilling out the rivets. The plastic nylon washers are wide enough to use as replacements.

This has just been my experience on the last 2 windows I have had to repair on my '84 and '86. I did forget that going up half way doesn't put the window in the window channel and you are still able to open the gate. So thank you for the correction.

 

Jason, I'm going to have to take exception on the slide rail issue. All of the slide rails I have seen have slots that mount to the studs on the lower metal glass retainer. True that the lower metal glass retainer is riveted to the glass, but not the slide rail.

 

Checked it out today and it looks like pulling the rivets should be cake. Hope theres some wood around for me to knock on.

NOW for the important question, how much should I be paying for new glass. Can I get it with the defroster without a problem? Any other thoughts? Can I get it with a less visible defroster maybe? Those lines kind of kill me.

Mike

 

Maybe that is what I am thinking. I know some parts are indeed bolted but the metal rails or retainers are riveted to the glass. The only way to get the glass out of the tailgate is to remove that retainer or rail or whatever that thing is.. No feelings hurt?