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Front Leaf Spring install tips.

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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:20 PM
  #1  
JB666Rock's Avatar
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Front Leaf Spring install tips.

I posted this question in another thread, but it was buried.

Today, I got my new (Rough Country) 2" front leveling kit. I was curious, though, when looking at my front springs - Where the springs mount up FRONT, are there any easy ways to get the bolts to come out?? I haven't tried yet, but both sides look like they will hit unless things are removed...

Thanks , in advance!

By the way, I have a 2001 F250SD 5.4L
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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From: Ketchikan, AK.
yes, they will hit.... i just did mine last night. be sure to use a torch.... those damn bolts are tight, so you have to loosen the loctite. what i did to get mine out was to take a sawzall, and slightly cut a small portion of the condensor brackets so i had clearance for the bolts. the rear is a piece of cake. let me know how it all turns out, i still have to get my trac bar back in tomorrow along with the steering stabilizer, and fix the alignment. be prepared to have a nose up look until the springs settle in.... mine isnt too bad, but i wish it was about 1 inch lower in front than it stands now. goodluck !!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 09:13 PM
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The a/c condensor brackets are in the way of the bolts coming out up front. The brackets are held in with 1 small bolt.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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I found it easier to remove the bumper than try to manauever the bolts, my hands and a wrench or ratchet behind the bumper.

The condensor brackets are held on with 1 bolt - 30 seconds and they are out of the way.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #5  
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I too found that it was easier to remove the bumper, 2 bolts in the front beside each tow hook,and 1 on each inside fender well. Made it alot easier to get to everything.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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From: PHOENIX
Remove the front bumper. Don't cut anything.
Also get the biggest pipe you can find and a craftsman or husky breaker bar(that way you can exchange it when it breaks). Those front bolts are on tight and I was hanging off the pipe to break em loose.
steve
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:51 PM
  #7  
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Ok, so off with the front bumper it is - Thanks!!!!!!!!

One last thing - Where can I pick up a set of F350 rear 4" blocks?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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The blocks I got measured 3.5 inches at the rear, I think 3 3/8 at the front.
Part numbers F81Z-5598-FA and F81Z-5598-GA, between $35 and $45 each. List is $47.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:12 AM
  #9  
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From: WARRINGTON, PA
Exclamation

i dont know what state you are in, but blocks in the front are an absolute no no in PA. i have lifted many trucks and yes, blocks are a cheap lift, add-a-leafs are the next best thing, and of course, a full spring pack is always the best way to go. and the full spring will ride alot better and you won't have to worry about axle wrap that much...you will never find a stock vehicle or an aftermarket that puts lift blocks in the front of any truck. its just too dangerous... coil spring fronts are another story. then you can use a spring spacer, like for the dodge pickups and the 05 and up ford heavy duty trucks. but even then i would only put about 2-3 inch spacers on it. anything bigger you should replace the coil. SORRY TFALK. I WOULD HOPE YOU DON'T HAVE BLOCKS IN THE FRONT, that is if you have leaf springs in the front. IF YOU DO I WOULD TAKE THEM OUT. ASK AROUND, NOBODY HAS BLOCKS IN THE FRONT OF A LEAF SPRING TRUCK..
 

Last edited by RACERX7775; Nov 3, 2005 at 04:20 AM.
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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From: Somerset NJ
RacerX, read again... he specifically said REAR blocks

That's what I used in the REAR of my truck. When I installed the V springs in the front of
my 2005 Excursion, I needed to bring the bring the back up a bit. I installed the 3.5" blocks along
with B springs and it's just about perfectly level now. Handles a lot better too,
ride is quite a bit stiffer.
 

Last edited by tfalk; Nov 3, 2005 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 09:04 AM
  #11  
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From: PHOENIX
I think he is referring to the taper of the block. It is an eighth shorter at the front to point the pinion upward.
steve
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 03:31 PM
  #12  
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RACERX7775
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From: WARRINGTON, PA
tfalk, yesterday at 9:49 p.m. you said the blocks you got were 3 3/8 in the front and 3 1/2 in the rear. super steve is right, i thought you meant that you put blocks on the front that measured 3 3/8. my misinterpritation. and supersteve, shouldn't the blocks be shorter in the rear to point it upward???? either way, this isn't supposed to be confrontational, it's supposed to be fun and a learning place for us ford guys to talk about our vehicles..
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 05:49 PM
  #13  
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From: PHOENIX
Originally Posted by RACERX7775
shouldn't the blocks be shorter in the rear to point it upward????
Only if the axle is mounted above the leaf spring, which may be the case on 2wheel drive f250s.
When the axle is under the leaf, the taper is smaller on the front of the block to make it point up.

Unless of course you are talking about front blocks, where the rear of the front block would be shorter to point the pinion upward. But we already clarified that no one should be using front blocks.
steve
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:07 PM
  #14  
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From: Somerset NJ
RacerX, that's a wink, not a rolleyes above Nothing confrontational...

I see what you mean now... I actually meant the blocks were tapered, not that I used
blocks in the front. I didn't understand what you meant until now, sorry....
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:35 PM
  #15  
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From: WARRINGTON, PA
All Good. Everyone Here Are All For The Benefit Of Our Trucks. We All Have Some Disagreements Sometimes, But, It Is For The Better In The Long Run..smiles To All.........................
 
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