Got this bit of info from FORDMASTERTECH

There is a temperature valve in the pump. Cooler flow rates will vary according to automatic transmission fluid temperature.
Temperature Flow chart for the cooler.
44°C (112°F) 236.6 ml (8 oz) 15 sec
78°C (172°F) 473.2 ml (16 oz) 15 sec
82°C (180°F) and up 1893 ml (64 oz) 15 sec

 

It would be cool if I could maintain 180 and get 6qts out in a minute huh? lol

I'll give it a shot and see what happens

 

I'm reading through this thread and now you guys have me confused. My plan was to drain the fluid out, refill and run. Drain out again refill and go with it. I will change the filters probably frount and under the pan.

The fluid I got looks very clean and all that so I guess this is what I will do. Maby I will change it more often to compensate for the bad way I,m doing it.

OF course, my other option is to do what you guys are up to and SO, I was thinking of breakreving the truck to heat up the fluid until the tire smoke gets so thick that I cannot see my neighbors dog thats always barking across the street, by then I figure the tranny is hot enough. Then I will go over there, under cover of smoke, and kick the dog THEN climb under the truck and get on with it.

 

The only problem with that is you will be mixing old fluid with new...

I'm not an expert, but I would venture to guess that a lot of people are doing it this way.

LOL...LOL.... Your a trip Man ..LOL....kick the dog under the cover of smoke..

you guys really can't get your tranny beyond 165deg normal driving? I believe anywhere from 150 to 180 is about normal operating temp for an unloaded truck.

 

Hey Bear i have a 4x2 with the upgraded factory 265 Pirelli's and when not towing my trans temp is usually around 140.
I gotta be towing to get any where close to what your getting but you spinning some big wheels.

I realize that getting ther fluid rather hot is the best way to remove the most old fluid from behing the check valve and cooler.

 

Your truck sounds sweet man... you oughta get your gallery up

Yeah...I guess I'm gonna be the guinea pig on this one...doesn't look like anyone has tried it yet on a torqueshift. I have seen two schools of thought...those that say it pumps out really fast and those that say it will pump out really slow unless the tranny is hot. I tend to side with the latter, because I believe those that say it comes out fast are talking from experience with the 4R100 tranny...which is a different animal.

I kinda look at it this way...

10qts is about the max you can put in after draining the pan without the fluid coming out the vent while the truck is running. At that point it is essentially "overfilled"...an overfilled tranny will tend to run hotter. I don't know if it will be enough to get temps up for the short period of time I am doing the fluid change or not, but we will see I guess.

Worst case scenario...I will only be able to pump out 1 quart due to the thermostat controlling the flow. I put everything back together and drain out about 3 quarts to get the level correct. this leaves me with approximately 7-8 quarts of old fluid.

Best case scenario...I am able to to pump out about 6 quarts and all is good.

 

Okay now i'm a tad confused.
I have re-read the entire thread and i this is my hang up.
By having truck warm but turned off? You 1st drain trans pan about 7 qts.
2nd is to replace the drained 7 with 10 qts. to actually overfill the system.
3rd is to start truck, let run and while running unhook trans line at cooler and drain 6-7 qts. Then top off.

Okay if i this is right then what oil are you flushing ?
The oil in the pan again or the rest of the system(cooler,lines,converter)?

would think it best to flush the rest of the sytem but the istructions sounds like i would be redraining the pan again.

 

I would be attempting to flush out the converter..The new fluid that was added would be getting pumped through the system. The old stuff would be coming out first through the cooler.

See this pic again:

http://www.truckblog.com/gallery/BearHunter/10416.jpg

#1 is the return line. Instead of disconnecting at the rear of the tranny, I'm going to go to the other end of that hard line by the cooler and hook up there. This way I can keep an eye on how much comes out into my measured container while I simultaneously add more Mercron SP. The amount of fluid I add will depend on how much and how fast the old fluid is pumped out.

 

Hey Bear let us know how you make out. My dealer only charged 130 for the flush last time I had it done. I don't think a good and easy way to flush is possible from what I understand even with a dealer flush. Buddy of mine works for Chrysler and they just got a new flush machine in.


One question? Can I have her number on your Avatar.... ....OOOooh I am too old anyway...or Is that a Kali option that came with the truck...

 

Max,

Will do brother...heck if it only cost $130 here I would have the shop do it!

I'm pretty confident that I will be somewhat successful ... Let you'all know this weekend

 

As much trouble as it is i think that ANY dealer does a shoddy job of removing all the old fluid during a tranny service.
Thats why i'm willing to spend big $$ on a huge amount of those pint mercon sp bottles when i do it myself.
Even doing the work yourself you still spend about $120 for fluid plus filters.

 

Your right about that...I always feel more comfortable doing stuff to my truck myself vs. having someone else do it....as long as I have all my ducks in a row and know what I am doing.

I priced out the supplies from my Ford dealer that I am picking up tomorrow.

$180.00 gets me the following:

1. 20qts MERCRON SP
2. Tranny In-Line Filter
3. Tranny Internal Filter
4. Engine mounted Fuel Filter
5. Frame mounted Fuel Filter

They wanted $240 just for a tranny flush

 

OK. I hear what you all are saying. Seems like a good idea, but could be pretty hard to rig up.

However, there is another way that may be nearly as effective, but is much less complex.

1) Pull the plug on the pan. Drain the 6 - 7 quarts. This is only about 1/3 of the 17.5 quart capacity.
2) Change the filter(s), including pan filter if desired. Replace pan, if removed.
3) Fill the tranny with 6 - 7 quarts. This replaces about 33% of fluid.
4) Run the tranny up to op temp.
5) Drain the tranny again, but do not change filters.
6) Add the 6 - 7 quarts again. This replaces about 33% of the 67% "used" fluid. Now the remaining fluid is "45% used".
7) Now, if you really feel the need, repeat 4-7. After 3 changes, you will have all but 30% of the fluid totally changed out.

Now, I realize that my technique may seem somewhat wasteful. However, it has the advantage that there is no danger of aeration of fluid in the tranny and certainly does not require special adapters. There is little risk of introducing additional contaminant into the tranny.

My concern with possible aeration is that minor deposits that may reside in valve bodies or in recesses in the tranny may be "swept" up when the air/oil mix blasts through the lines. This needs to be avoided.

 

Are you talking about air returning to the transmission through the open
cooler line? I am told that the cooler return is for lubrication only and none of the
control circuits. I plan on having my engine running for less than two minutes
and the residual fluid (plus the extra 3qts I added) in the trans will prevent any damage, especially at idle and with only the input shaft turning.

Here are some new pics by the cooler....along with an explaination..so hopefully it will clear things up a little:

http://www.truckblog.com/gallery/BearHunter/10688.jpg

I plan on disconnecting at #1 and add another hose to it to make sure the fluid
goes where I want it to. I will also add a length of hose from the steel
line to the bucket to catch any residual fluid that will come out.

You'all probably noticed that I have been collecting info for this procedure this whole week. The credit for this info belongs to

Charles Ledger
ASE Master--Auto; Advanced Engine Performance;
Diesel Engines; Medium/Heavy Truck Electrical
Ford Senior Master Technician--Engines, Drivetrain, Chassis

And to Fordmastertech from TDS for flow rates posted above.

 

Bear Hunter:

My background is filtration. I deal a great deal with automotive filtration issues--especially on the lubrication side. I also know enough about auto transmissions to be dangerous--don't claim to be an expert.

However, my limited experience tells me that the lubrication fluid and the control circuit fluid are one in the same. That is why clean transmission oil is so critical. I also have first-hand experience with contamination in hydraulic lines. It is always there, the question is what do you do about it. Ideally, all contaminants are transported and then deposited in the filter(s). Generally, however, this is not true. A build-up in "quiet zones" in the transmission is normal. What is not normal is aeration of the fluid. The sudden accelerations / velocities of the aerated oil blowing through the lines could be detrimental and negatively impact the downstream cleanliness of control circuits.

If you do a complete flush, which is to be applauded in principle, I would try to avoid running the transmission until air is observed. It would be better to come up with a precise way to meter oil into the transmission at the same rate it is coming out. Then you could stop before air is observed.