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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
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Question Help Me Pull

I think I need some help. I recenly purchased a new F150 supercrew 5.4. The purpose was to pull a small TT we were going to purchase. Well the small turned out to be 7400lbs. I have a good hitch and great brakes and controller. I think I need a little more power. I have read a lot of articals ,did research and read forums. Now..... I have a GCVW of 14000lbs and I'm way overloaded on information. Cold air induction, cat back duals, chips...... K&N,Borla,magnaflow, banks, hypertec, diablao, superchip and more. What would be the most effective combination to help me pull the load and not break the truck. I'm an old guy not interested in racing, just pulling better, sound good, and if better gas milage that would be Ok
 
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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Welcome to the site

I can help you by letting you know this thread will probably be moved to another forum....a tech forum
 
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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Hi and welcome to FTE! Be sure to read this to help you around this site: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=300691 There are also State, Provincial and International Chapters located near the bottom of the main forum page.

Thread moved to Towing forum. You should get some help/ideas here.

See ya on the boards!

-Matt
 
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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I would start with a 4:10 rear end. A lot of what you listed is for horsepower gains, what you are looking for is more torque. The lower geared rear end will apply your existing torque.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by al_e._gator
I would start with a 4:10 rear end. A lot of what you listed is for horsepower gains, what you are looking for is more torque. The lower geared rear end will apply your existing torque.
Second that, lower set of gears will make a huge difference in towing. I used to have a 5.4 as well, I must say if you don't have one already, make sure that you get a tranny cooler. A K&N drop in factory replacement filter and opening the exhaust will help as well, but I think the biggest difference is going to be in the gears.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by al_e._gator
I would start with a 4:10 rear end. A lot of what you listed is for horsepower gains, what you are looking for is more torque. The lower geared rear end will apply your existing torque.
HP is a cacluated product of torque and rpms. If the rpm band isn't raised then the hp won't change without a torque change!

This is tough question that depends on how much $$$$$$$ you want to spend. A 4.10 or 4.30 gear set could run any where from $1,500-$3,000 for a 4 wheel drive, cut it in half for a 2wd.

A SCMT or other repitable programmer can be had for about $300 which is a good place to start. Research the programers and choose one that fits your needs the best. In towing mode you'll more than likely have to run premium fuel, are you willing to make this sacrafice? Also, some only provide more grunt at WOT so becarefull what you choose. Some have programble/downloadable features but if your not going crazy with mods these may not be the most for the money. Just keep researching!!!!

The Intake is another but I would maybe stay away from K&N and do some research about what filter you want to use, you may find results that you perfere not to put your own truck through. If you do go with a K&N or that type of filter you may want to consider a Prefilter, after doing some research youll soon relize why!!

Exhaust can be a touchy thing, some vehicles repond well to it other don't see much for gains. I don't know about the 5.4 but my V10 has a very poorly engineered exhaust system. The problem lies that just a cat back system usually won't show much for gains. A Full header to tail pipe system is really the only way to go for a considerable increase, although this can run as much a $1000-$1300 depending on the system and the price of headers for a 5.4L.

When considering all of this; an intake, exhaust, and programmer will run as much as a gearset. The gearset will give you more performance though for the same money. If you did both you'd see hudge improvements but do you have 3k to blow?? or you could add a supercharger for about $3500 but it would still be advisable to have exhaust, intake, a custom program, and possible larger injectors so now your at more like $5,500. Or if moneys no object get it all for around $7k-$8k and you'd have a smokin fast original pullin machine that would be everybodys envy (well every one with a 5.4L anyway!). It all depends on how crazy you want to go.

If you plan on spending a few thousand maybe you should just look at a larger truck with a V10 or a diesel, but again research what you primarly use the vehicle for before jumping into something that maynot really fit your lifestyle or needs correctly (or garage or budget)!!

Good luck, maybe with a price limit we could give you better Idea.

Just a side note If your towing that kind of weight and add any performance mods its highly advisable to add some real gauges!!! The factory ones are nothing more than indicators and by the time they tell you that somethings overheated its already too late; I would advise a trans temp, an engine oil temp, and possibly a differential temp gauge for a safe long operating towing vehicle. These'll run around a couple hundred bucks depending on the type and brand of gauges and the type of mounting pod or hardware.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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I also second the trans cooler!!! but a trany gauage will tell you if you really need one.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SLE
HP is a cacluated product of torque and rpms. If the rpm band isn't raised then the hp won't change without a torque change!
You're right, but the changes made can affect where your torque peak is and that has real world significance for towing. A freer breathing intake may increase hp a little but it also may move the peak up the rpm curve and therefore not be useful in this instance. I have a car where upgrades in intake and exhaust had this effect. It made gear selection much more important when driving. Any drivetrain mods for towing need to be aimed getting the engine to run nearest it's torque peak earlier and/or longer.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 06:53 PM
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WOW.... I didn't expect all that but thanks. This may be a little more complicated than I thought. I understand the lower gears, but would hate to give up what little mpg than I'm getting with the 73's, and I am not a full time tower.. couple of long trip in the summer and several short weekenders. I am going to start some serious research on the chip and Just because I want the truck to sound as good as it look and rides I' m going to stick with the cat back system for now... I don't mind sending some money on my truck, but I think the other half would have some serious words. On the Intake side I'm going to think about that. As for he supercharger.... I don't think Ford and their warrantee would like that? thanks Again more to contenplate.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tdemor
I think I need some help. I recenly purchased a new F150 supercrew 5.4. The purpose was to pull a small TT we were going to purchase. Well the small turned out to be 7400lbs. I have a good hitch and great brakes and controller. I think I need a little more power. I have read a lot of articals ,did research and read forums. Now..... I have a GCVW of 14000lbs and I'm way overloaded on information. Cold air induction, cat back duals, chips...... K&N,Borla,magnaflow, banks, hypertec, diablao, superchip and more. What would be the most effective combination to help me pull the load and not break the truck. I'm an old guy not interested in racing, just pulling better, sound good, and if better gas milage that would be Ok
If by new you mean an '05 or '06, you've got power enough in the 5.4. Not barn burning, but sufficient. Where you miscalculated was in the weight dept - you don't state if 4X2 or 4X4 but for the '05 F150, it's close for either.
Base curb weight is in the 5200-5500 LBs, so add 300 Lbs for passengers,
400 lbs for gas, makes (low side, 4X2) 5900lbs. Now add trailer for total of
13300 lbs. with a max of 14000, that leaves 700 lbs you can carry in the truck. This assumes that the trailer weight you quoted is actual weight. If it's dry weight, you are already way over the GCWR.

It's not a lack of power you have, it's a lack of truck. Best bet would be to move up to a F250. Lacking that, changing rear axle as stated above will help, but doesn't change the weight situation. And might be a good idea to check tongue weight also, as it may be above the limit. You'll have to check your owners manual for that limit, it's not listed in the on line spec chart. Bottom line, don't worry about HP, worry about a truck big enough to handle the added loading and sway, etc of the larger trailer. JMHO!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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Thanks for the get back, and ya I am very very close the the factory specs on the 150. I have taken it to a certified truck scale just to check. I am right on the money with with 990 tongue weight. The dual cam hitch has taken much of the sway out of the unit, just need to pay attention with the big one's go by. Truck feels very stable 65 and under, so I drive a little under. 14500 is GCVW I am grossing 14600 loaded I have adjust the hitch so I am under max axle rating and I am just under the 7200 GVW for he truck. I 'm think the greatest failure possibilty would be tranny, will install temp guage... Tires, check pressure before towing. If I use my head and drive sensible the rears and drive line should be ok. I appreciate the information and concern.. I can't change what I got right now. Just would like to accelerate into traffic a little better and hold 3rd gear long on the pulls Thanks
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:04 AM
  #12  
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Yeh, I know where your coming from since I'm in the same delema just on a larger scale. I started with a minor exhaust upgrade, I have gauages on order and I figure the programer by spring when the warrenty expires. I'd love gears or a SC but the better half would have many words for me if I dropped that kind of money on it. good luck and research is again the best thing you can do. JFYI, I'm seriously considering the Superchips Max Micrtuner, seems to be one of the beter ones avalable for the V10 and seems to give decent gains all the way across the pwoerband along with code reading abilities. there may be a few more choices for the F150 so don't rush into anything and after narrowing it down between a few call them and get some info, they should be able to provide you with dyno charts and such for your particular vehicle.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 12:16 AM
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Get a Powerstroke!! Problem solved.
I am being a bit of smart aleck but it sounds like a lot of work and $$ to get your truck up to the task of hauling the trailer....Wouldn't a nice F250 stroker do the deal?

And as for mileage, I haul a loaded 7000# trailer around town- rarely on the highway- and I only lost 2mpg from normal. Lets see a gas engine do that!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Willmott
Get a Powerstroke!! Problem solved.
I am being a bit of smart aleck but it sounds like a lot of work and $$ to get your truck up to the task of hauling the trailer....Wouldn't a nice F250 stroker do the deal?
He JUST bought the truck. I don't think he is going to trade it in already. Maybe we should try to help him get his current truck up to the task and work with what he has got.

-Matt
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:32 AM
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Gears are the way to go for this one. All the programmers, exhaust, intakes, ect., tend to push your usuable power up higher. This isn't where you need it. To get that weight moving the gears are where it's at.

Not just that, but many of those other add-ons are very RPM specific and can lower power in certain areas. Gears give you more torque to the ground thoughout the entire RPM range, bottom to top.

Goin to 4.10 from 3.73 is not gonna hurt your mileage. Just like the SD's with the V8 or V10, that 5.4 needs to be turning around 2100 - 2250 rpms in OD at 65-70 MPH to be making good power for traveling. This is where it is also efficient, as the tranny doesn't have to look for gears under load or hills.

Don't be afraid of RPM in these motors, they will spin for days and won't complain a bit.
 
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