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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Front Spring & Axle ?s

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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
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From: Redsox Nation, Mass
Front Spring & Axle ?s

I have the front axle out now for new king pins. I figured this was also a good time to have the springs done. I read somewhere that these trucks (54 F100) have rock solid springs and a lot of people remove a leaf for a softer ride. Right now I don't intend to do this but would like to hear any opinions.

I ordered new bearings for the front so hopefully thats all I'll need to get that back in. I was also considering a steering stablizer -- the shock style that mounts to the axle. I'm going to be running slightly wider tires up front. Nothing too drammatic but they definitely won't be stock.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 09:12 AM
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Yes, you can remove leaves for a softer ride as well as limited lowering but even more important than removing leaves is how the leaves interact. Consider dissassembling the spring pack to clean all the rust off the leaves and grind the ends so they do not dig into each other. Get some teflon spring liner and put it between the leaves also and that will make them work better and give you a softer ride. The difference will be worth the effort...

Vern
 

Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Oct 30, 2005 at 09:16 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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I agee with Vern. Also replace the eye bushings (and shackle bolts if they show wear) If your springs have the round recesses in the leaves they take "buttons" replace them rather than using teflon liners. Don't paint the leaves, just wipe on a thin coat of wheel bearing grease!
Removing leaves: note in the Mid Fifty catalog- "start at the bottom, shortest leaf. Keep #1 (shortest), remove #2 (next shortest). Keep 3, remove 4, keep 5, remove 6. Keep 7 but cut off wrap 1-1/2" from eye. Add new clamps 2 clamps in the front 1/2 one in the rear. Use a longer head centerbolt to reassemble to allow for alignment shims."
You'll also need shorter U bolts to remount spring to axle.
If the front end is aligned properly and nothing is worn, a steering stabilizer should not be necessary. If you are going to new wheels and tires make sure the wheels have the right offset (backspacing) to keep the center of the contact patch close to the stock location. Using deep dished wheels for appearance or to clear wide tires is asking for steering complications.
I'd also recommend swapping you tie rod for a HD one (Mid Fifty) and replacing the tierod ends to complete your front end rebuild.
 

Last edited by AXracer; Oct 30, 2005 at 09:48 AM.
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