Engine Break-in
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Engine Break-in
I'm trying to find links for information on breaking in my 400. Here's what I think is predominant but please correct me or add as needed:
Liberally machine lube distributor gears-cam interface, timing gear and chain, lifters, etc.
30 weight oil, to full
Cam break-in run 2500-2000 rpm constantly varying rpm... stay for a few minutes at 2000, few minutes 2300, few minutes 2500, 2200 rpm etc? (how do I know what rpm without tac? can I rent a tacometer for use during break-in?)
time engine during break-in
After 25 minutes, change oil and filter
Take to highway and run briskly up to speed limit (70 on interstate?) and back down to idle, then briskly up to speed, then back to idle for 30 minutes?
Is this correct or what should I do differently?
Liberally machine lube distributor gears-cam interface, timing gear and chain, lifters, etc.
30 weight oil, to full
Cam break-in run 2500-2000 rpm constantly varying rpm... stay for a few minutes at 2000, few minutes 2300, few minutes 2500, 2200 rpm etc? (how do I know what rpm without tac? can I rent a tacometer for use during break-in?)
time engine during break-in
After 25 minutes, change oil and filter
Take to highway and run briskly up to speed limit (70 on interstate?) and back down to idle, then briskly up to speed, then back to idle for 30 minutes?
Is this correct or what should I do differently?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
well cam break in you just vary it for 25 mins between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm for the oil i would use something with better flow properties because oil flow will be crucial for you. 30w has poor properties. something like 10w30 or 15w40. you can change the oil after cam break in. then after just drive it without staying at one rpm too long at you will be fine.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,198
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From: Fairmont
When you take it out on the road, run from 30 to 60 MPH. Try to excelerate(?) as hard as posible with out the transmission down shufting. The idea is to put a load on the rings. Vary your speed up and down about 6 times. Other wise you have the correct idea.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Run, don't walk, to WalMart or someplace you can buy either STP, EngineTech or some other oil additive that has ZDDP in it. You'll need the ZDDP in order for the cam to get lubricated properly. GM EOS is another alternative, but at this time of night, you might have trouble finding it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 964
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From: Roseburg, OR
All of that sounds good, then remember to do another oil change after a few hundred miles get put on the clock.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
Originally Posted by pcmenten
Run, don't walk, to WalMart or someplace you can buy either STP, EngineTech or some other oil additive that has ZDDP in it. You'll need the ZDDP in order for the cam to get lubricated properly. GM EOS is another alternative, but at this time of night, you might have trouble finding it.
this is the reason i told him to run 15w40 he will not have to deal with this issue. just use a HDEO. ZDDP is a anti wear additive used in applications with high friction metal on metal contact. the new sm oils do not provide this because cars today use low friction rollar fingers. but for good flat tappet cam protection use a oil with at least 1,000 ppm of zddp most sm oils run 600 or 700. aslo moly is good too . so find a oil with both. like Chevron delo 400 ,delvac 1300 or rotella are all good choices so is valvoline premium blue. make sure they say CI-4/SL or CI-4+/sl.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Mike (ford390gashog who's actually running a 428!), I don't think that most motor oils have the ZDDP any more. The oil manufacturers took it out of the oil at the request of the automakers and the EPA because it was poisoning the catalytic converters. Only some diesel oils and motorcycle oils have ZDDP.
I agree that the Delvac/Delo oils are a good alternative, but I don't think that was clear enough.
For everybody else; We gearheads with the older vehicles with the flat tappet cams need to add the ZDDP back in to the oil. STP, GM EOS, and WalMart TechLube (or something like that) have ZDDP for gas engines.
It's vitally important that flat tappet engines have ZDDP in the oil when they're breaking in. It coats the cam lobes and lifter surfaces, it bonds to the iron oxide and provides a high pressure lubricant.
I agree that the Delvac/Delo oils are a good alternative, but I don't think that was clear enough.
For everybody else; We gearheads with the older vehicles with the flat tappet cams need to add the ZDDP back in to the oil. STP, GM EOS, and WalMart TechLube (or something like that) have ZDDP for gas engines.
It's vitally important that flat tappet engines have ZDDP in the oil when they're breaking in. It coats the cam lobes and lifter surfaces, it bonds to the iron oxide and provides a high pressure lubricant.
Last edited by pcmenten; Oct 29, 2005 at 11:07 PM.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
This is a good discussion on lubricants, that's what makes this forum great. The EPA I know doesn't make requests, LOL.
Hog, you recommended either or favor the ZDDP first time also?
I've been liberal with my use of assembly lube, hopefully enough of it's remained in place after sitting so long. I'll look for a blend of high ppm ZDDP and Moly. Does this come in 10w30 15w40 viscosities?
Now this is the oil I'll be taking back to recycle after my initial cam run-in of 30 minutes, right? Use a fresh batch for my highway run (cross my fingers) also? So I need a case.
Hog, you recommended either or favor the ZDDP first time also?
I've been liberal with my use of assembly lube, hopefully enough of it's remained in place after sitting so long. I'll look for a blend of high ppm ZDDP and Moly. Does this come in 10w30 15w40 viscosities?
Now this is the oil I'll be taking back to recycle after my initial cam run-in of 30 minutes, right? Use a fresh batch for my highway run (cross my fingers) also? So I need a case.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: PacNW
Just as an FYI, Crower requires that straight 30 weight oil be used to break in their cams, no multi vis and no synthetic. They do recommend using some sort of "oil conditioner" such as GM EOS which has the high pressure lubricants you're talking about. They recommend pouring it over the top of the rockers prior to installing the valve covers.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Bill, your post finally prompted me to do a google search for 'camshaft EOS'. There are multiple citations from Crower, GM, and other sites all saying the same thing; add GM EOS when breaking in an engine.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: PacNW
I believe you can only get it at GM dealers but I don't know that for sure. It's not in a spray application and you can probably get away with just pouring it in thru the oil fill. I'd definitely make sure I primed the oil system before starting as well.