Well First Hi to all, I have browsed this forum for a while now but now I am in need of some help.

About 8 months ago I purchased a 1999 F-250 SD with extended cab and 4x4 with the V10 engine. Till now have been very happy with the whole package.

The problem I am having is that the engine feels like it is missing and not just at idle but all the way through the rpm range. This started about a week ago and was accompanied with the engine light coming on as well. Also this is happening intermitently, although it is becoming worse. The best way I can describe it is that it feels like when the rotor and distributor cap need to be replaced on a vehicle that has those.

I am going to start by cleaning the mass air flow sensor but beyond that I am kind of stumped as my knowledge of these newer ignition systems is limited.

Also is this something that I can look into myself or am I better to just take it to a garage and have them look at it. I do not have a code reader or some of the more job specific tools that may be required.

Thanks to all that respond.

 

I would suggest you do a search of this forum!
read all about changing cop's and sparkplugs blowing!
If you have an autozone close to where you live,they will scan it for free.
You may have a bad cop ,sparkplug boot burned through,or a plug waiting to spit out the head.
or other things
Rich

 

This just caught my eye and I can not resist

Headline V10 forum urgent member has an engine missing. Does any one know where the missing engine is. Please respond immediately as Fred Flintstones method is real tiring!

Hey dirtbikeboy....Welcome to FTE and the V10 forum home of true BSEG and original site to talk about 10 burning and 4 turning.

You can and will find all kinds of great info here even if some of the members are smart asses! (grin)

You could have an Idle Air Control valve sticking

You could have one or more Coil Over Plug units that crapped out

And you could have a Mass Air Flow MAF meter polluted and needing of cleaning.

You could have a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump

Those are the easy problems.

The big problems to fine are if a CHT, CPS, or other sensor is sending bad data to the PCM

I think you can find info fairly easy for remove and clean or replace the MAF and IAC relatively easy so start there.

Buying ten COP units can get real expensive so hang tight and one of the fellows with experience in this area can suggest ways to isolate the one two or three that may be bad. While waiting search this forum for some of the old threads on that subject. COP, Misfire, blown plug

Again welcome and I hope we can track down that missing motor real soon for you!

 

Thank you both for your replys, I just got back from Partsource ( Canadian version of autozone) and they did do a scan for me, and they did if for free! It turns out that it was a COP that was not conecting properly and the partsource guy looked up which one it was and checked the conection before wanting to order me a new one. After reseting the computer took it out for a drive and that seems to have solved the low rpm miss fire. But the higher RPM problem still exists, although I now have no check engine light.

The problem that exists now is once the engine goes into 4th and is around 1400-1800 rpm and i am giving it some throttle, but not enough to make it downshift it start to miss fire, almost shakes my fillings loose. Between 80 kph and 100 kph it will actually resonate bad enough to see the hood bouncing up and down as it does it. But if I floor it and the truck downshifts it takes off like a scared rabbit. And if I take my foot off the gas the vibration goes away, at any RPM or speed.

Am I wrong about this being a miss fire, could it be something else, tranmission, driveline? I can make the same thing happen in 3rd but no where near as much as 4th, although I am chalking that up to the fact that in 3rd there is so much power that I just accelerate into 4th so fast I am missing it.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appricated.

Thanks

 

That sounds more like the TC lockup clutch slipping than anything else.

 

I sure hate to send you on a powertrain and Torque Converter Trany change until you eliminate all the cheap and easy faults that can cause this

IAC, vacuume elbow and fuel filter first... then tell us how the old girl runs.

 

How about a power brake test,does it run rough,miss sputter?
If it does its not the TC or tranny
Rich

 

Do you know the actual code that Partscource retrieved? Was it a P03**?
How many km's on the spark plugs?
Bad spark plugs are the most common cause of a misfire.
If you drive it some more with it missing the check engine light will probably come on again. If it does and you get it scanned it will probably lead you to the misfiring cylinder. If the spark plugs have a lot of km's on them or you're not sure how many that's probably where I would start.
If you want to get it diagnosed properly your dealer can do a cylinder power balance test on the road with their WDS scan tool. A misfiring cylinder usually shows up easily, even if it hasn't caused the check engine light to turn on.

 

Racerguy,

Yes it was code P0355, which I was told was the code for the 5th cylinder coil not working, the guy at partsource played with it and got it to clear the code and was idling properly. But the other problem still existed. From what I have been able to find out about the torque converter Lock up clutch is that over a certain RPM it locks and stays locked, I have managed to get the truck to have the probem while driving in O/D and when I take it out of O/D and the RPM goes to around 3000 I still feel it missing, but if I really give it some gas like I was going to pass someone it will not downshift, takes off and the miss/slip does not happen. Only under light acceleration is where I feel it.

As for the plugs, they came with the missing truck ( trying to find a little humor in this) The truck has 115K Kilometers on it. I have no idea when the plugs where changed last so I will do that regardless of what the problem turns out to be, It has also been suggested on other post that the plug boot gets dried out and can crack or have other problems, should I be looking at replacing these at the same time as the plugs?

I have managed to get a friend of a friend of a friend to meet with me this morning, he used to work for a dealership and has a better code reader than Partsource does and is going to go for a drive with me to find out more information. Will post what we find out here later on today.

Thanks again for all your help

 

ok,

Same code came up this morning P0355 COP on the 5th cylinder. After test drive, definitly not the tranny, Engine is missing, Ordered new sparkplugs, and plug boots. Should be here tues or wednesday this week. Going to take COP 5 off and the boot and put di-electric on it and see if that wont' work short term.

Thanks everyone for all your help, I will post once I am done and let you know how it all worked out.

 

A P0355 is an actual coil code. A bad spark plug shouldn't cause it.
You can try swapping the #5 COP with another one and see if the code follows it.
Chances are pretty good that a new COP will cure it.

 

Definitely get a new coil on plug. You can find them on ebay for 25 bucks instead of the 90 at ford. When you change those plus, you should try to spray a little brake parts cleaner in the plug tubes and roll a rag up and stuff down in there to get the dirt out of the plug hole. Chances are that the plug holes will be filled up with dirt if you find any cracked boots. Don't forget the antiseize! Good luck!!

 

please take compressed air and blow the holes out real good,we have seen little rocks and debris in the holes.If a rock or something falls into the cylinder area its bad news for the combustion chamber.Take a dental mirror and look before pulling the plugs.

Rich

 

That's definitely true

 

If it went so far as to log a code for cyl # 5, and light the check engine light, I would change the COP ...

Of course, if you don't want to just go buy a COP, try changing the plug/boot/spring.

And always blow out the hole with compressed air (not a spray can!). I blow it out first, loosen the plug a 1/2 turn, and then blow it out again...

art k.