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It will take all of three or four regular stops for the "ridges" to seat in to the new pads. If the rotors aren't warped, and ridges aren't excessive, no need to turn the rotor. By not excessive I mean you can feel them with your fingernail, but should not be a high ridge nor deep groove. And buying the most expensive pads can be counter productive - you want the pads to wear faster than the rotors. You can replace a number of pads for what a new set of rotors cost. I have put new pads on some really rough rotors (not warped or burned, just rough) and have had no preformance problems. I guess the bottom line is having enough experience to know what and when to replace. That said, there are a lot of considerations as to adequate performance. Some small cars have pads and rotors so small that 15K miles require service. Some trucks have pads so big you almost need a dolly to move them. Kudos to Ford on the '05's and up for the large rotors and pads - they stop something wicked if necessary! All the above MHO.
This is usually a very friendly and helpful forum with little or no swearing and vulgarity. Let's try to keep it that way. We all try to give our best advice.
This is usually a very friendly and helpful forum with little or no swearing and vulgarity. Let's try to keep it that way. We all try to give our best advice.
OK, got my Expedition into the Ford dealer this morning and had them do the front brakes. They replaced the pads and turned the rotors. Also had an oil change and came out the door at $249.70.
Glad I took the advise from this board and had it done right.
Thanks
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Wow, holiday187 needs a.... holiday? Relax, man, no one is wrong or right here. It's all a matter of opinion, like 99% of all other car related issues.
As far as turning the rotors, I don't see why it is an absolute neccessity to turn them everytime you change pads. I have swapped the pads on my SVT Focus form street pads to some HP Hawk pads, in the pits at the track, run the **** out of the car all day, being VERY hard on the brakes, and then swap back to street pads and never once turned the rotors. In fact, I had 24K miles on that car, a lot of them very hard track miles, and never needed to turn the rotors at all. And I went through probably 7 or 8 sets of pads, some of them being high-friction racing applications pads.
Bottom line is if the rotor is not warped, damaged or severely gouged, why mess with it? All turning is doing is removing even more material, which weakens the rotor more than it helps.
A brake pad will seat into whatever crevices and gouges are in the rotor in less than 500 miles, so all the talk of reduced surface area is a good theory, but the point is moot...
FWIW, I would trust an ASE Certified Brake Specialist over some guy on a message board any day of the week.
You can shove your certification up your ase for all I care, but I DON'T know what I'm talking about.
I guess you never have to, BUT it usually will save you money in the future if you do.
here you go buddy i fixed your quote for you. You left one word out.
my apoligies on loosing my cool but he certainly didn't need to chime in with his idiotic "you can shove you ase certf.........blah blah blah"
I'm saying it's not needed at all. alot of side jobs i do on brakes i take the pads to the ground and do figure eights with them which breaks then in pretty good before putting them on. I did 200 side jobs last year on brakes and not one came back. People paid 100 bucks i did them out of my home and i always bought the wagner thermoquiet brake pads ( about 60 bucks) and never once did i turn a rotor. Sure i had to replace some rotors cause of those people that brake until it just starts grinding then want a brake job but other than that no rotors were removed or turned. at the job on the other hand it's part of the package so i turn the rotors. most make turning rotos part of it so that they can say it's beyond the wear point and they need new rotors.