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Welcome to FTE. The newer V10s call for 5-20 and that is what I use as well as most of the rest the guys on this forum. Why not use the economical Motorcraft FL-820S which can be bought at most Walmarts for under 3 bucks.
I can see no real advantage to a 2 quart filter which if you can find one will hang down
a lot further than a standard filter. Good luck and take care.
Hi Jason welcome to FTE and the V10 forum.. no real need for any oversized filter the FL820s is a good enough filter for typical 3000-5000 mile service interval. Ford specs 5W20 now for the V10 but some of the older ones had a 5W30 spec. Many of us prefer the inexpensive MotorCraft semi synthetic 5W20.
Welcome! I use Motorcraft 5w20 semi-synth and (really expensive) Mobil1 oil filters. I like 'em for a lot of reasons, but in answer to your original question, they too are "only" standard capacity filters.
Hey Jasonsmith, wrenchtravler's right, you don't want that thing hanging down any further and cause a future problem. If you are looking to add a little more oil to your rig for whatever reason, the best way to go would be with an engine oil cooler setup or just an oil filter relocation kit. I put an oil relocation kit on my lightning. It added about 3/4 of an extra quart, and I put it in an easier spot to get too. Good luck man!
Jason, you may have heard about a trick from the days of yore and the dark side (GM.) The old GM 454 installed in light trucks seemed to run a little cooler and have cleaner oil at changes if the commercial duty 2 QT filter from the two ton and up installations was used. It would screw on and not hang below the pan to a significant degree. The cost was about $1.80 extra per filter and the extra quart of oil. I ran this on my 454 Suburban in '83 and '84. You already have the basic cure for the problem...Its called the V10!
BBfried, You talking of old GM quirks had me remember I actually owned a 1960 Pontiac with the big 300 Six and that year , and probably quite a few years that I don't know about, an oil filter was an option which my car did not have.
The manual stated if you did not have the oil filter option , to change the oil more often. Does anyone know how common this was to sell an engine with no oil filter.
It seems so bizarre.
I'm not really after cooler oil, I'm after more filter capacity. I run in a very dirty environment and just want the extra filtering capacity.
On a diferent subject, how are you fixing the broken exhaust manifold stud problem. I have had this truck about a month now and have put close to 7000 miles on it and I already have 3 broken studs on te same side. What gives?
You can still run a dual filter relocation system from permacool or td performance. I have had the broken studs too. Fortunately I changed my heads and put in stainless headerlock bolts so that is no longer a problem for me. Those studs are just too skinny and made out of low grade steel. There should be more studs per port like you see with bmw's. They are not fun to drill and tap out.
just do as fred states use a motorcraft 820s and change it every 3k. you will be ok.
as to the manifold bolts. the 8 mm studs are just to soft. pull the manifolds and have a very carefull time drilling them out.
the stainless steel replacement studs are great. thats the way to go imm any way also.
Wrenchtraveler, the owner's manual for the '62 Chevy pickup I used to have stated the same thing. I think it was directed at the straight 6 motors and all the V8s had a filter. That truck also had an oil bath air filter on it.
My truck spens a lot of time on Texas back roads and I work on Fort Hood. I am talking talcum powder dust and a lot of sand.
I use small filtered breathers on both my differential vent hoses. Yes Virginia it is that sandy and dusty here! I highly recommend this for any one who lives in a sandy dusty region. Your axle innerds will appreciate it!
The V10 is a well isolated motor with all the air into and out of it filtered.
Use and trust the FL820s and change it on the 3000mile interval for severe duty.
THe path for the crap into the oil is past the air filter...that is why I strongly recommend the Factory paper air filter.
New oil Filter every oil change and air filter twice a year is very cheap insurance
I have been known to fill up and spin on a new $2.50 PH8a on one of my older cars every month just because it was easy to get to, cheap, and I had two cases of the filters laying around. So I don't see why spinning on a $2.79 filter every third month would break the bank.
BBfried, You talking of old GM quirks had me remember I actually owned a 1960 Pontiac with the big 300 Six and that year , and probably quite a few years that I don't know about, an oil filter was an option which my car did not have.
The manual stated if you did not have the oil filter option , to change the oil more often. Does anyone know how common this was to sell an engine with no oil filter.
It seems so bizarre.
Wrench -
It's a little more common than you think - look under any of the nearly 50 million air-cooled Beetles that VW sold over the years. The only thing they ever had that passed for an oil filter was a little screen mounted in the sump.
I've been reading (and respecting) your stuff for a while and was surprised you didn't think of this!
My best friend had a 1957 Bug when we were kids and I rode around in it a lot but I have never wrenched VWs. I am a millwright which is an industrial mechanic so what I don't know about cars is quite extensive. I don't envy automotive mechanics , they have to work in pretty awkward positions. Millwrights get some big ugly jobs , but we also get a lot of tiddly little jobs too.
Thanks for the compliment and you have been a member since March and only 15 posts so I am sure you have some stories we would like to hear. Take care.
you guys forget i speak vw here? yes all the bettle aircooled had was a oil strainer and a oil bath air filter. but you also changed the oil and washed the strainer every 1500 miles. and they only held 5 pints of oil untill the 60hp came out then it went to 3 big qts.