Interesting Problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2005
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Interesting Problem
Hello
I am beside myself trying to figure out this problem and maybe someone here can help me out.
I have a 93 F350 with a 7.3 diesel.
The problem I have is that occasionally ( 1 in 10 starts) the engine
will not start, won't even turn over.
The starter engages momentarily but fails to turn over ther engine.
Just goes clunk and does not turn over at all.
What I have done is to keep jumping the relay until the starter finally
turns ther engine over . When it finally turns over I am able to start the engine.
I thought it was a starter problem so I put a new starter in ...Same thing happened.. I also have changed the relay and put in new batteries
Still same problem.
Does anyone know what else can cause this problem?
I am beside myself trying to figure out this problem and maybe someone here can help me out.
I have a 93 F350 with a 7.3 diesel.
The problem I have is that occasionally ( 1 in 10 starts) the engine
will not start, won't even turn over.
The starter engages momentarily but fails to turn over ther engine.
Just goes clunk and does not turn over at all.
What I have done is to keep jumping the relay until the starter finally
turns ther engine over . When it finally turns over I am able to start the engine.
I thought it was a starter problem so I put a new starter in ...Same thing happened.. I also have changed the relay and put in new batteries
Still same problem.
Does anyone know what else can cause this problem?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
turn on your headlights on a wall if possible and watch to see if they dim excessively when this happens. If it does dim I agree with checking grounds at all connections the bad connection might even be getting warm.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 231
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From: mooringsport louisiana
Yes quiet a tricky problem you have . I agree that you should rule out any electrical problems first. You might get a volt meter and check the voltage at the starter before and after trying to start . If the electrical system is ok , you should see a drop in voltage when the starter is trying to turn over . It should get the wires hot from the amps going into the starter . The next thing I would check would be water or fuel in a cyl. Take out the glow plugs and turn it over . If ther is fluid in a cyl it will spew out . Of course both of these tests should be done when it is not starting correctly .
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I will check the grounds
I find it interesting that wh336fire mentioned water or fuel in a cylinder;
I seem to be losing a lot of water and I have no idea where it is going.
I have to fill up the rad once every two weeks and can't find any leaks
I have installed a new rad cap this week also.
does this mean I have a blown head gasket?
I find it interesting that wh336fire mentioned water or fuel in a cylinder;
I seem to be losing a lot of water and I have no idea where it is going.
I have to fill up the rad once every two weeks and can't find any leaks
I have installed a new rad cap this week also.
does this mean I have a blown head gasket?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 231
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From: mooringsport louisiana
Could be a head gasket or I hate to say it ...a crack in the block . 7.3 has thin cyl walls and a cavitation issue tht causes holes or cracks in the block . I learned from this forum that we should run an additive in the coolant to prevent cavitation .
Someone will have to help me out with the additives names , I don't recall them .
Someone will have to help me out with the additives names , I don't recall them .
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 231
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From: mooringsport louisiana
while the engine is "locked" pull the glow plugs or the injectors , turn it over and this will find the water if this is indeed the culprit .
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Do you notice water in your oil?
Milky cream colored stuff under the oil cap or the top of the dipstick?
Cavitation could be putting the water into the cylinder at a low piston position. When the engine stops with the piston below the pinhole the coolant hydrolocks the engine. The repeated bumps of the starter force the water out through the ring gap into the oil pan. The times it starts OK are when the engine stopped with the piston above the pinhole. But then the coolant ran straight into the oil pan.
If this is your problem, pulling the drain plug and checking for water/coolant in the oil pan would be very advisable. If the water is deep enough in the oil pan the oil pump will be lubricating the engine with water instead of oil.
Blown head gaskets and cavitation are also detected when you have a lot of white sweet smelling exhaust vapors.
DCA 4 is the coolant addative that is to be used to prevent this from happening.
Ford also has a product that is DCA 4 but they sell it as VC 8 for a part number.
Several other coolant manufacturers use another formulation based on Dexcool technology. Does the same job as DCA 4 but is not compatable with it. A lot of the red or orange or blue antifreezes are based on the Dexcool technology.
Cavitaton is bad news, we are talking major overhaul with cylinders sleeved to fix it.
Pronounced ....Lots of dollars to fix.
Milky cream colored stuff under the oil cap or the top of the dipstick?
Cavitation could be putting the water into the cylinder at a low piston position. When the engine stops with the piston below the pinhole the coolant hydrolocks the engine. The repeated bumps of the starter force the water out through the ring gap into the oil pan. The times it starts OK are when the engine stopped with the piston above the pinhole. But then the coolant ran straight into the oil pan.
If this is your problem, pulling the drain plug and checking for water/coolant in the oil pan would be very advisable. If the water is deep enough in the oil pan the oil pump will be lubricating the engine with water instead of oil.
Blown head gaskets and cavitation are also detected when you have a lot of white sweet smelling exhaust vapors.
DCA 4 is the coolant addative that is to be used to prevent this from happening.
Ford also has a product that is DCA 4 but they sell it as VC 8 for a part number.
Several other coolant manufacturers use another formulation based on Dexcool technology. Does the same job as DCA 4 but is not compatable with it. A lot of the red or orange or blue antifreezes are based on the Dexcool technology.
Cavitaton is bad news, we are talking major overhaul with cylinders sleeved to fix it.
Pronounced ....Lots of dollars to fix.
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Freshman User
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Yes Dave... I think you are absoulutely right
That makes perfect sense to what is happening.
I was hoping the fix would only be a couple turns of a
wrench but it looks to me I will be looking for another
engine
I'll check the oil out this weekend but I'm sure
this is the problem
Thanks for all the help
That makes perfect sense to what is happening.
I was hoping the fix would only be a couple turns of a
wrench but it looks to me I will be looking for another
engine
I'll check the oil out this weekend but I'm sure
this is the problem
Thanks for all the help
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Let us know what you find, if the oil pan is not full of water you may have something else wrong. Right now I can not come up with another line of thought on what the problem might be with the way it is acting, but you never know for sure till you turn some wrenches.
