rap rap rap rap.....
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rap rap rap rap.....
I have been surprised recently as to the unique noise my truck makes when started completely cold with ether (bad i know, I'm working on the gp's). After a few tries, the truck will barely stay on with the pedal on the floor, and makes a funny noise. It sounds like rap rap rap rap or something. Doesn't have the characteristic aye aye aye noise until warm. until then the truck rocks while it is making that funky noise....all the while smoking out the nieghborhood. Is this just the cold cylinders?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Try pulling the wire of the timing advance just after starting to see if the noise subsides considerably...... Timing advance wire is the rear one on the drivers side of the IP. If the noise lessens then your timing is possibly too far advanced. One other thing would be check the advance lever on the DR side of the IP, if you use a screw driver and push in the bottom of the lever it should stumble and smoke until released. If the advance piston is stuck inside then it could do that smoking all the time.
Do you use diesel additives in the fuel if not get some and double dose the fuel.
When was last fuel filter service, water draining or change. Please do not use ether .............try WD 40 down the intake or plug in the block heater. One other point ONLY use Beru/Motorcraft GPs available at Azone cheap.
Do you use diesel additives in the fuel if not get some and double dose the fuel.
When was last fuel filter service, water draining or change. Please do not use ether .............try WD 40 down the intake or plug in the block heater. One other point ONLY use Beru/Motorcraft GPs available at Azone cheap.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 14, 2006 at 05:42 AM.
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I have a wire tied into the cold advance and it usually helps. My truck still does stumble pretty bad, but the again, that is what happens when you ask a tired old engine to start at 17* w/o any heating. No gp's and no block heater. It probably was below zero overnight....
One day it's nice, the next, freezing. anyways. I have the two brown fatter wires from teh wiring harness to the gp's connected to the gp's BUT i get no power to the gp's. I totally rewired it with a tractor solenoid, as i had mentioned a while ago. Worked until ATS got their hot little hands on it. 
Now it doesn't 
I have gotten the solenoid makes an audible click when the gp button is pressed, but no luck. The gp's don't activate the test light?!?! I am on my wits end. I have tried so much WD-40 and this new 3in1 advanced starting non ether fluid and nothing works.
One day it's nice, the next, freezing. anyways. I have the two brown fatter wires from teh wiring harness to the gp's connected to the gp's BUT i get no power to the gp's. I totally rewired it with a tractor solenoid, as i had mentioned a while ago. Worked until ATS got their hot little hands on it. Now it doesn't I have gotten the solenoid makes an audible click when the gp button is pressed, but no luck. The gp's don't activate the test light?!?! I am on my wits end. I have tried so much WD-40 and this new 3in1 advanced starting non ether fluid and nothing works.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Does your volt meter drop when you turn on the ignition, does it swing back and forth for a while. Check for the ground wire on the controller it must be a good one.... did they ATS move the controller, where did they hook up the ground wire. is there a black and purple wire from the controller where does it go to.......has a wierd connector, feeds the WTS light.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
If that is real time:
A/... the fast idle speed is too low....850rpm.
B/...If a warm engine the idle speed should be ........650 rpm auto in gear or manual in nuetral.
A/... the fast idle speed is too low....850rpm.
B/...If a warm engine the idle speed should be ........650 rpm auto in gear or manual in nuetral.
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Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Sounds like about 600 RPM.
Check the timing advance wire and the fast idle solenoid to see if it is energised before you start the engine in the morning.
I would bet the plug is off the coolant temp sensor down under the alternator by the thermostat housing. It is hard to see down there unless you are standing on the tire looking almost straight down with a flashlight. Two prong sensor that recieves power from the ignition circuit and sends power to the fast idle and timing advance solenoids.
Check the timing advance wire and the fast idle solenoid to see if it is energised before you start the engine in the morning.
I would bet the plug is off the coolant temp sensor down under the alternator by the thermostat housing. It is hard to see down there unless you are standing on the tire looking almost straight down with a flashlight. Two prong sensor that recieves power from the ignition circuit and sends power to the fast idle and timing advance solenoids.
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I actually just cut the two wires going to the fast advance and have them on a switch. When cold it idles higher than that usually. Although it still makes that funny noise until warm. Just cold cylinders?
Post Fiend
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From: Manitoba
Cutting the two wires after the engine temp switch really does nothing as the switch will still cut off power:
The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This denergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.
The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This denergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 26, 2006 at 10:49 AM.
