I have installed a Ford 9" in my 53 F100 with a 302 and AOD. I want to change the pinion yoke on the rear to accomodate the drive shaft that came with the tranny. My question is, do I have to install a new crush sleeve or can I just remove the yoke, install the new one and re-torque the pinion nut?
Thanks

 

When I needed a different U-joint size because I swapped out the pumpkin, I just took the driveshat to a driveline shop and they sold me a U-joint with the proper journal sizes for the driveshaft yoke and the pinion yoke. Worked great and was not expensive.

I believe in the old adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" and the KISS theory.

 

If you remove the yoke, replace the crush sleeve and the pinion seal. Both are available at your local Ford dealer. The sleeve is B7A 4669-A. The seal has been updated to a later number.

Barry

50 F-1

 

Forgive me, but what does the crush sleeve do? Why does it need to be replaced?

I am doing a 9 inch myself, and was wondering.

 

what does the crush sleeve do?

The crush sleeve holds the 2 pinion bearings apart at the correct distance. It also holds a pre load on the bearings.

Why does it need to be replaced?


It is like changing the oil and the filter. It is by the book.
I almost never change them when I am just changing the seal . I just count the turns it takes to get the nut off and put it on exatly the same + 1/8 turn.
The yoak may be different than the original so pinion preload should be reset with a new crush sleeve. I have gotten away with used ones. I can explain how to do if you need to know.

 

the crush collar is one time use only,but you would probally would be ok without changing ,but use locktite on the nut.they are available at any parts house in the ''help'' section.ford or gm,the same.it should not be too lose or too tight,and never back off.must be able to turn pinion by hand .adjust it to the orginal preload .a little tighter with all new bearings . i have at times had a heck of time ,being able to crush or squeeze it enough. good luck

 

Im just wondering here.. But go thru the headache of pullin and replacing the yoke when all U need is a diffrent U-joint take the old U-joint from ur yoke and one from the driveshaft to ur local parts supplyer and have them match U up with e correct crossover U-joint .. Much easyer and cheaper then changing the yoke.. Plus no one telling U.. But if U make a mistake on the yoke it can be a real nightmare when something breaks..

 

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Yes please...............when I changed the yoke and seal in mine, I must have got it too tight or something. It was alright at first then it started to howl, then turned into a roar. When I dropped the punkin it looked like the ring gear started a new wear pattern. Now the one in the truck is starting to weep, so I would appreciate any info. thanks.
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XFM.......

 

If you have a good 9" with a gear ratio you are happy with, leave the yoke and crush collar alone! It would be a lot cheaper to have a whole new driveshaft made than the cost of a new ring and pinion and someone to set it up properly if you mess it up. I'd try Mad's solution first, Try a parts supplier than also offers machining services they are typically better informed/useful than the kid at the local Autozone.

Hint, if you put in a new universal that has a grease fitting, make sure you install it so the hole for the fitting is in compression rather than in tension when in forward gear.

 

To set the pre load you would need to remove the pinion bearing retainer it is held in with 5 bolts save the shims and put them back when you reassamble. Remove the yoak seal outer bearing old crush sleeve. Install new crush sleeve old bearing and new seal, yoak, nut. Now tighten the nut slowly until you get 8-12 inch pounds drag. It will get very hard to turn when it gets close and it is very easy to pass this speck then you will need to start over.
I am sorry but the ring and pinion my not be any good in your rear you can try this to see if this fixes it but it may always make noise.
It is true if at all possable it is better to leave them alone.

 

Im just wondering here.. But go thru the headache of pullin and replacing the yoke when all U need is a diffrent U-joint take the old U-joint from ur yoke and one from the driveshaft to ur local parts supplyer and have them match U up with e correct crossover U-joint .. Much easyer and cheaper then changing the yoke.. Plus no one telling U.. But if U make a mistake on the yoke it can be a real nightmare when something breaks..

Are u-joints with different bearing cup sizes available? Following is what I need.
-Pinion yoke needs a u-joint with 1-1/8" dia bearing cups and a 3-5/8" domension across the two cups.
-the drive shaft u-joint measures a cup dia. of 1-1/16" dia and 3.227" across the two cups.

Thanks

 

Yes they are u-joints with different bearing cup sizes and even with diffrent cross arms.. This is a command change that even Napa carries the crossover U joints.. I had to do it when I change out my 9 inches 4.11 for a 3.25.. I just did a pumkin swap and got the right change over U joint to fit my drive shaft.. Its a easy match up and U will be much happer than trying to change the yoke.. I have seen some yokes that just wont come off no matter what..

 

crossover u-joints are much easier. For a little info check out this site on 9 inch rears. http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm also, by looking at yer measurements, I assume you have a 79 or newer 1330 series driveshaft? and mating it to an older 1310 series yoke.

 

57-ford's first post is right on the money. If the rear end is good and quiet the crush sleeve is definitely reuseable. Change the seal just 'cause you can, count the turns and stake the nut, you'll be good to go.

 

I went to NAPA after putting a '68 F-100 axle under my 51 F-1. I got a longer yoke off of ebay for a mid 70's full size ford car, which was installed when the differential was rebuilt, so the driveshaft wouldn't need to be longer. Told the parts counter guy had a 51 F-1 driveshaft, and a mid 70's full size car 9 inch yoke, and after about 2 minutes looking in his books, he got the U joint off the shelf. He said as long as you have which vehicles they came off of it's easy to look up (at least for him, he's one that can still navigate his books pretty quick).