Here's one that has stumped me.... '73 390 engine stalls, either while driving or idling. Isn't the fuel, pump, or filter and it's getting gas into the chamber (visually checked). Can't be a loose wire or something that is grounding out, thou there is that possibility, but I'm about 99.9% sure that's not the problem. Ignition switch, another possibility.
Mechanics say that's while it's running, there is not much that they could do. Makes sense....! Sometimes I can go for days without it giving any trouble. Then some days it'll die, maybe once, maybe a few times in a given day. When it dies, it is as thou the ignition has been turned off, but a majority of the time, it will restart quickly. This problem has been going on for the past few months, but has steadily gotten worse. Recently, the restarting of the engine has gone to the point that it doesn't restart. The other day, it died on the side of the road, I pushed it into a parking lot and left it overnight. The next morning I went back armed with new points to installed. Before installing the new points, I tried to restart the engine. WHAM-O....it started, but went on ahead and installed the new points, sense the old ones looked worned.
Anyways.....
I know that this is a "process of elimination".
My main question is this. Can the capacitor (located inside dist.) cause such a problem. I've been told that once they go, they go, that there is no hesitation to a capacitor or condenser.
I would hate to get my old beast out on the road, in the backwoods or away from the home plate and have this happen and not be able to get it back to the homestead. Being a contractor, carrying a fair amount of tools, leaving that beast on the side of the road could be a costly affair.

Thank you for any replies as I will consider all.......

 

Yes, usually when one replaces the points, one should replace the condensor (also know as "aka" the copacitor). I say this is the problem on your engine.

Keep us posted if it does fix the problem

 

Here is something no one but me mentions.

Look Very closely at all the wiring for the ignition system.

I have seen several times where a wire to the coil or distributor was hanging by one strand of wire.

Also, corrosiong can take place between the insulator & the wire where it connects to something.

Go over the whole system in detail.

These can cause all sorts of problems.

 

next time it dies see if the coil is real hot, I've had shorted coils that would run for days before giving out then when the coil cooled they start right back up.

 

Also, next time it stalls and won't start, pull a plug wire, expose the connector inside the boot, and lay it about 1/4" away from some part of the block. See if current jumps the gap when you try to start it. That will tell you if it's some part of the ignition system or not. I agree with the hot coil idea. Had that happen a few times over the years.

"Elder user"!!??? Couldn't they think of a better term?

 

I bought a truck that would run really good for varying legnths of time and then it would die and not restart untill it cooled down or it would only restart for a few seconds at a time. Turns out the previous owner removed the external resistor from the coil. The coil would heat up and then quit working. It eventually burned one coil out and then i realized when i removed it it said right on it "must be used with an external resistor". so i put one on and its worked great since. The external resistor looks allot like a condensor in you ignition system. Im not too sure if it is testable or not. A Capacitor you can test with a good multimeter on the capacitor test function. It charges and discharges it and displays your voltages through out the cycle.

 

I dont have a resistor on my ignition system.. havent for a couple years. I use a stock, cheapie coil and a pertronix under the cap ..

As for his problem, id start with the wiring, check the ends make sure its well connected etc etc .. then move onto the coil, you can check the coil's internal resistance, but i forget how.. Sry

 

Been there too , and Polkat they had a different term for elder users but the swear blocker wont let them use it

 

That condensor is a radio noise suppression choke

 

The condensor I mention is placed in the distributor housing with the points.

 

I knew that 75 Ford (you don't type your real name so I can't address you as such)

The condensor looking part (like you mentioned) attached to the coil is the radio noise suppresion choke.
That's it's only purpose.

 

Hi,
I posted on this same, or similar problem a while back and it was misdiagnosed as vapor lock. Turned out to the be the pickup coil in the distributor, just as noted above, along with the ignition module (located on the driver side wheel well). Problems solved!
Dak

 

Mil1ion, I knew you knew, just wanted to clarify my previous post.

dakonthemountain, the 390 has the point setup in the distributor.

________
Richard

 

Hey! My truck used to do the same thing. I found it to be one of those plastic connectors coming or going to brain, alternator, these were just examples. But I moved them around and badda bing it started.Yesterday I went to start it and battery is dead! Why? Brake light switch is bad and lights stay on. If its not one thing its another.

 

I have had a similar problem a few times, once the pick-up coil, once a bad connection in the wiring harness and the last time it was the wires that contact the coil + and - in the white harness that connects to the coil. Didin't figure it out until i had the truck idiling, went around wiggling wires, just had a little bit of wiggle that once every so often would move around killing the engine. Temporary fix i put a peice of electrical tape in harness to take the play out of the connection.

Not sure if having the ground strap from the engine to the cowl on would make a difference. They seem to disinigrate after a while, at least in the rust belt. Always a good idea to make sure that you have one anyways.