What is a better oil on paper Val All climate 10w 30 or Castrol GTX 10w-30 0r Mobil drive clean 5,000.
Getting readt to change the oil in my 86 F150/ EFI 302 No leaks, some seepage, no burning

 

Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com

You will find that Havoline is the best conventional on paper, and the second choice to that is Castrol.
Most people aren't too sure yet about the Mobil 5000 because the add packs show up funny on many of the reports. So, many people aren't sure what Mobil is up to, but it does seem to be a good conventional oil.

 

well top dino oils are this

Havoline/chevron,Motorcraft/conoco,pennzoil,valvoline,castrol

 

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How about Chalet brand Non-detergent straight 30 weight at Quickie Mart? It is usually overpriced by nearly $3 a quart, and usually can be located by the dust on top of it's plastic yellow quart container. Usually stated on the container: "For use in engines where high oil consumption is a major concern. Do not use in any engine built after 1985". Why is Chalet brand never talked about on this Forum? Ed PS Does Chalet make a "Full Synthetic" oil, approved for 20,000 mile oil change intervals?

 

My Marketing idea, set to turn the oil industry buzzing. Introducing:
"CHALET 1 Full Synthetic Oil" Meets SAE industry standards "SB"
Energy Conserving: NO
Multi-viscosity: NO
Straight - viscosity: YES
Detergent: No
Available Weights: 30, 40, 50
Special order: Chalet 1 Racing Oil 60 ND
Price: $9.99 Quart
Available: All nationwide Quickie Marts, ACME Bait & Tackle Shops.
I like it! Possible '06 sponsorship for Roush Racing's #99 Ford Fusion, driven by Carl Edwards, @ Daytona in Feb. '06. The CHALET 1 FORD!!

 

LOL! Ed, I think you must be feeling a good buzz! We see Chalet in SoCal too. Loved your description "usually can be located by the dust on top of it's plastic yellow quart container."

 

The question that we need to ask is,what type of driving do you do and when do you change your oil?

Any modern SM oil meets the required standards that the auto manufacturer has set forth.

This applies to the cheap store brand and to the expensive name brand.

They both have to meet the same standards.

The difference in the brands is the additives.

Some brands go above what is required to meet the SM standard but is this something that most auto's need?

Brand A may have more of this or that additive than Brand B does.

The question here is,does your car/truck need the extra additive?

Jschira uses the cheapest oil he can get and has not had any problems.

I have been using Super Tech for some time now and as far as I can tell,no problems.

Most any store brand oil that is SM should get 4-5K OCI's without any problems and the user of such will most likely get many many miles out of their car/truck.

Super Tech has been shown over and over on Bobistheoilguy to be a good oil and it is cheap.

ST seems to be made by two or three companies depending on where you live.

The makers of ST seem to be;Warren Performance Products(WPP),Mobil and Shell.

Any SM will probably do just fine.

 

And I have shown in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=422785

and this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=423314

That cheap (inexpensive) does not necessarily mean cheap (poor quality).

 

That cheap (inexpensive) does not necessarily mean cheap (poor quality).



that is what people do not understand.

which is also what exxon/mobil uses to sell there oil. if its 6.00 a bottle it must be better than the .49 oil. people use price to judge quality.

 

Jschira,your right.

An oil that has a cheap price doesnt mean that it is a poor quality.

They all must meet the American Petrolium Institute (API) standards whether they are name brand or store brand.

Something else that people either dont know or overlook is the fact that each oil that passes the API standard is done so at a substantial cost.

Many seem to think that if a major company such as Shell makes a store brand of oil that the store brand is a bad oil because it is a store brand.

It would cost Shell or any other company huge amounts of money to offer several different oils to be used as a store brand because each one would have to pass the the tests from API to be certified.

In fact,the store brand may be the same as the name brand or at worst,a variant of the name brand with little if any difference in quality.

 

Everybody seems to be fixated on judging oils by "good, better, best" standard. I have tried (mostly in vain) to get people to adopt a new standard . . .

"Good Enough".

That's exactly what the API certification is meant to be, an indication that the oil is "good enough".

I have not, and will not, say that some oils aren't "better" than others, because, they are. But that is not the point. If an oil is "good enough", then with regular maintenance, the "good enough" oil can easily get your engine to 150,000, 200,000 or more miles. Very, very few people (in any) will see any benefit in paying the extra $$ for a "better" oil. And even if you choose to buy a "better" oil, as I have shown, it need not be expensive.

So if M1 or Royal Purple or whatever is your cup of tea and helps you get to sleep at night, then by all means, spend the $$$, but don't come to this board and call me foolish for choosing not to.

And PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE!

Stop saying "You get what you pay for".

 

jschira,

I think I'm beginning to see the light. you're point is very well stated.
I would presume that you don't use HM oil either correct? You simply use what is the least expensive, and is "good enough".

So you really don't buy into the whole HM oil market?

 

Nope. Not at full retail price.

Because of the API rating system, regular oil has become generic, a commodity. Brand name companies don't want to compete on price alone so they started looking for a non-generic, "premium" product. Voila! HM oils were born. Ditto Castrol "Start-Up" oil, PZ "Truck and SUV" oil, etc.

But . . . .

You saw my post about the $10 rebate on Valvoline HM. At $1/qt., HM oils start looking good. I collect old cars and all of them drip and smoke a little.

To sum up, you can pay more if you want to, and that's OK, just so you know that you don't have to pay more. Personally, I choose not to.

 

jschira,
From the points you make. It really all boils down to common sense which I think the big oil companies do more at attempts to take that common sense away with all these diffenet maketing strategies, and products that are suppose to be new and improved.
Would you agree?

 

I have made this comparison before, but maybe it is time to do it again.

According to LubeReports, the cheapest Group I base oil sells for $2.45/gallon at Gulf Coast ports. The most expensive Group III base oil sells for $3.21/gallon at Gulf Coast ports.

See here:

http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic....cfm?x=b11,0,w

So the difference between the cheapest dino base oil and the most expensive Group III syn base oil is $0.19/qt. That's right, nineteen cents per quart.

So tell me, why is name brand dino <$1/qt. and name brand syn. is around $4/qt.?